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Olibuilt 's New Cub project

i just finished my second project,the first was a smith pa-12 with tcow wings the second a tcow fuse built by javeron with Cloudes ribs and spars.I new that he had passed as he died shortly after i got some parts from him.One of the planes that i restored years ago was built by him called a krate looked like a maule but with a cub wing.He really had some nice stuff and very well priced.If you know who is continuing to make his parts the info would be appreciated.
 
Hard work and a lot of time invested in this project. Every little thing is very long to fabricate.

A little traveling with the O-360 in the back of my Honda or in the back of the white Cub. Engine ready for rebuilt.

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Aileron and flaps from this:

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To this:

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Homemade flap-aileron hinge:
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Wing on to check flap lenght to fuselage, flap pulley placement and top deck fabrication

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For the fuel line routing I really wonder how.. With doors on both side, it is impossible to give a good slope for the rear lines, when on 35'' tire and tall landing gear...

Red line would be: front and rear line to the windshield tube.
Green line would be the rear line down the window to the front..

Do you see something wrong with both front and rear line routed in front (like the red in the drawing) ???

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For the fuel line routing I really wonder how.. With doors on both side, it is impossible to give a good slope for the rear lines, when on 35'' tire and tall landing gear...

Red line would be: front and rear line to the windshield tube.
Green line would be the rear line down the window to the front..

Do you see something wrong with both front and rear line routed in front (like the red in the drawing) ???

View attachment 10007
Run the red as front lines, the green as rear lines and put a sump line at the low point of the green lines to the belly with quick drains. That way you can drain the water out of the rear lines. If you run it all to the front there's no need to even have a rear line from the tanks, unless you're doing it for redundancy.
 
that's how i ran my lines except the green line goes under the floor. lots of flow even with min fuel
 
I really felt compelled to write in on this one....

I had a 1986 F21B TCraft.... N4417Q, which was designed to run out of fuel in "level flight" (similar to what your red lines depict and in the absence of the green lines).. I found this out via one of the people responsible for the aircraft certification and flight testing (now that's an intelligent way to design an airplane fuel system {being facitious here}) after the fact, this happened in rough air. So, of course, used to learning in a PA-18-90.. I slowed my flight in order to decrease turbulence (read tail dropped because of slower flight, no flaps). When I did so, it got a bit quiet...

I was only a couple of miles from the airport so let the tower know I was making a landing on the highway below (I believe I used the term "making a precautionary landing"... landing was heading West on an uphill portion of the highway, crossing high tension wires, etc.. with wind 19 kts gusting 26 kts @ 190, I was fortunate in that my son and I walked away and didn't bend anything up... sure could've used a blast on the tail as it came down.. plenty of gas still in the tanks (assuming level flight). Put gas in either side (21 gallon tanks - both only, not left, right, & both) afterwards, highway patrol (which were now at the landing location) blocked the highway for me on the N/S road at that intersection. I took off and landed at the airport 2 minutes later.

Understand your airplane, know your fuel system, and how it's designed to run out... Hope this helps in your decision making on running your lines...
 
Do you see something wrong with both front and rear line routed in front (like the red in the drawing) ???

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Olibuilt, If you are asking what I think that you are asking, when you are climbing with the tank only partially filled the fuel will not be able to flow up to the forward door post and then down to the engine. The reason that there are two tank outlets, with the lines being routed as Piper did it, is so that there will always be fuel flowing in large nose up or down pitch angles.

Using your drawing, picture in your mind how the fuel will flow when there is only a small amount in the tank.
 
thats way the green line is their. low fuel in a decent it feeds from the front in a climb it feeds from the rear.
 
Maybe my first drawing were not good.

I'm really not an expert in fluid dynamic or hydrolic. I just wanted to have the line out of the passenger feet.


My 2 doors 360 white cub is setup like the green and red line, with a drain at the rear line. No problem in steep climb on 1 tank only. 1 tank, 2 lines and 1 valve for each side. Both, left, right and off.


But I don't understand the difference between the two setup below, beside rear drain being the one in the gas tank for red only setup. Both setup have a positive slope for ground and climb attitude.

Thanks for the input BTW.

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In the marine business drawing # 2 has an anti- siphon loop.... Not good is my first impression.
 
go with the first drawing, the second i don't think is safe you will be trying to make the fuel flow up hill in a climb with low fuel. VERY BAD in an over shoot.In the first drawing the rear lines are all below the fuel so gravity will do it's job.Both my cubs are similar it works good with no header tank. Also keep in mind were you will put your drains on the rear line you want to pick a spot that will be the low point an wheels and floats.
 
It make sense now. Better ask being dumb than asking starving... Will go for the first drawing.

Thanks
 
Maybe my first drawing were not good.

I'm really not an expert in fluid dynamic or hydrolic. I just wanted to have the line out of the passenger feet.


My 2 doors 360 white cub is setup like the green and red line, with a drain at the rear line. No problem in steep climb on 1 tank only. 1 tank, 2 lines and 1 valve for each side. Both, left, right and off.


But I don't understand the difference between the two setup below, beside rear drain being the one in the gas tank for red only setup. Both setup have a positive slope for ground and climb attitude.

Thanks for the input BTW.

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This is the one. You could move the lower green to below the floorboards if you want, or just leave it.
 
Oli, where you might have trouble is if your plane would sit for awhile it could put water in the bottom back corner of the green line. If you run that green line right below your door, hard to tell from a drawing, will the line slope back up to the fuel valve or gas filter? How low is the door you made? And do you have your fuel valve in pipers spot? Any header tank? One thing Oli, your a builder.:lol: ps. i like your overhead hoist system.
 
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My 8GCBC has a drain at the lower corner of green line...on wheels, a good sampling sump.
 
The first drawing with the sump is the way to go but think about the sump location if your going to put a belly pod on.

DW
 
My second door is just like the stock PA-18 door but to the left.

I did not place the fuel valves yet. Was planning 1 front line, 1 rear line, both routed to 1 valve (each side). Both valve go to the gascolator.

What would be a good placement for a 2 doors cub??

Good advice DW, just need to know were the belly pod would go.

Thanks
 
I would go with one valve left side just in front of your door and low enough to allow for your throttle quadrant. less is better.

DW
 
I'm thinking of a drain sump on each wing tank in the inboard rear which I think is where the water would collect when sitting on the ground. Then, put in a gascolator right below the carb which should catch the water in the lines before it gets to the carb. Feeds would be front and rear on both tanks with a "Y" feeding a "L" or "R" or "both" selector which would normally be kept in "both" mode. This seems the simplest to me and most foolproof.
 
I'm thinking of a drain sump on each wing tank in the inboard rear which I think is where the water would collect when sitting on the ground. Then, put in a gascolator right below the carb which should catch the water in the lines before it gets to the carb. Feeds would be front and rear on both tanks with a "Y" feeding a "L" or "R" or "both" selector which would normally be kept in "both" mode. This seems the simplest to me and most foolproof.
This would work as long as it is all down hill between the tanks and the gascolator when the plane is parked on the ground (or on floats). If there is any portion of the fuel system which is lower than the gascolator, then it will be a collector point for contaminates and would need a drain at that point.
 
Agreed. I'm not planning to use a header tank, rather run the fuel lines down to the selector under the instr. panel then a single line to the gascolator. The other thought is just having a valve at the tank on each wing so that tank can be either on or off....making sure at least one of the tanks is "on" all the time and fed to a "Y" then to the gascolator. This still give the tank sump drain and the gascolator to drain water and stuff in the fuel before it gets to the carb.
 
Salut Oli,

I did mine with 2 valves, one on each side, eactly like one of your drawing. The rear line goes under the door and have a drain on the lower section when i`m on wheels, no header tanks`.
Look at my construction video at 1:17 you can see the left valve set up, at 1:23 you see the right line below the door post and at 1:37 you see the right valve .

Frenchy ( Claude )

I`m trying to post the video and got this message:post denied. New posts are limited by number of URLs it may contain and checked if it doesn't contain forbidden words.
:evil:
So:Go to YOUTUBE and type : construction supercuby
 
No header or rear tank for me neither.

Ok, will do the right setup with the rear line under the door. I now need to find the nylon fuel line like CubCrafters.

Thanks to all


Did the floor of the bagage aera in 020'' and 016'' aluminium... Did not find anything lighter for my budjet. The rest will be exterior fabric. Will put a piece of plywood over the floor when I need to haul heavy stuff.

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Olibult;
If you will pay the shipping I will send you all the fuel lines and fittings that came with my 2nd Carbon Cub EX. I installed aluminum lines in both EXs. Send me your address if you want them evroosevelt@hughes.net.
EV
 
Decided not to go with the plastic fuel line.... Looks a bit scary for a rooky eye. I'm sure it's a very good product, but I don't want to have any doupt in my head.

So I did the old aluminium way, 2 doors style.


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The titanium firewall is assemble, the flange inside. Need a couple more holes maybe.

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Worked on the light weight doors.... Started out with 1/2x1/2x1/16 aluminium... To weak. So it turned out with 1/2 aluminium channel.
Still thinking for a light closing mechanism...

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The engine is now ready to fire, rebuilt and painted stock O-360 C4P. Test fit the engine and custom engine mount.
I did cut the AtleeDodge crossover to built a 2 down pipes exhaust no muffler. Didn't want the muffler in the back of the engine.
Throttle cable is on, for pilot only.

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I took a look to see if everything seem good with the bashed cowling. Fit like a glove. But I think I will wait for the cowling choice or fabrication.... Budjet start to be tight to finish the project... This plane will fly with baffles only if needed....

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And I had a little fun with my handbrake-flap handle. A cut and lenghted car brake handle, with a bycicle handle for detent.
A lot of work for a flap handle.
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Olibuilt,
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I have a 2 down pipes exhaust no muffler system. I found that the fuel screen could not go where you have yours because the tail pipe would either hit it or was so close that the heat of the exhaust would cook the gasoline. Too dangerous for me. The fuel gascolator ended up outboard of the engine mount. I suggest that you finish your exhaust system before you settle on the gascolator location.
 
I see what you're talking about. Will choose between moving the gascolator, or putting a vented shield around it.

So after receive the SS tubing, the downpipes are done. Need to do the exhaust support and muffs.

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Olibuilt,
Be sure to make your supports so that they support the weight of the tail pipes and that they connect to the aft end of the engine. The supports need to be able to move with the engine. If you do not, you will likely develop cracks at the "Y" joint. There are many ways to accomplish this.
 
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