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Thread: Olibuilt 's New Cub project

  1. #81
    Lowrider
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    I'm thinking of a drain sump on each wing tank in the inboard rear which I think is where the water would collect when sitting on the ground. Then, put in a gascolator right below the carb which should catch the water in the lines before it gets to the carb. Feeds would be front and rear on both tanks with a "Y" feeding a "L" or "R" or "both" selector which would normally be kept in "both" mode. This seems the simplest to me and most foolproof.

  2. #82
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowrider View Post
    I'm thinking of a drain sump on each wing tank in the inboard rear which I think is where the water would collect when sitting on the ground. Then, put in a gascolator right below the carb which should catch the water in the lines before it gets to the carb. Feeds would be front and rear on both tanks with a "Y" feeding a "L" or "R" or "both" selector which would normally be kept in "both" mode. This seems the simplest to me and most foolproof.
    This would work as long as it is all down hill between the tanks and the gascolator when the plane is parked on the ground (or on floats). If there is any portion of the fuel system which is lower than the gascolator, then it will be a collector point for contaminates and would need a drain at that point.
    N1PA

  3. #83
    Lowrider
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    Agreed. I'm not planning to use a header tank, rather run the fuel lines down to the selector under the instr. panel then a single line to the gascolator. The other thought is just having a valve at the tank on each wing so that tank can be either on or off....making sure at least one of the tanks is "on" all the time and fed to a "Y" then to the gascolator. This still give the tank sump drain and the gascolator to drain water and stuff in the fuel before it gets to the carb.

  4. #84

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    Salut Oli,

    I did mine with 2 valves, one on each side, eactly like one of your drawing. The rear line goes under the door and have a drain on the lower section when i`m on wheels, no header tanks`.
    Look at my construction video at 1:17 you can see the left valve set up, at 1:23 you see the right line below the door post and at 1:37 you see the right valve .

    Frenchy ( Claude )

    I`m trying to post the video and got this message:Post denied. New posts are limited by number of URLs it may contain and checked if it doesn't contain forbidden words.

    So:Go to YOUTUBE and type : construction supercuby
    Thanks Jonnyo thanked for this post

  5. #85
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    No header or rear tank for me neither.

    Ok, will do the right setup with the rear line under the door. I now need to find the nylon fuel line like CubCrafters.

    Thanks to all


    Did the floor of the bagage aera in 020'' and 016'' aluminium... Did not find anything lighter for my budjet. The rest will be exterior fabric. Will put a piece of plywood over the floor when I need to haul heavy stuff.

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  6. #86
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    Olibult;
    If you will pay the shipping I will send you all the fuel lines and fittings that came with my 2nd Carbon Cub EX. I installed aluminum lines in both EXs. Send me your address if you want them evroosevelt@hughes.net.
    EV

  7. #87
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    Decided not to go with the plastic fuel line.... Looks a bit scary for a rooky eye. I'm sure it's a very good product, but I don't want to have any doupt in my head.

    So I did the old aluminium way, 2 doors style.


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    The titanium firewall is assemble, the flange inside. Need a couple more holes maybe.

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    Worked on the light weight doors.... Started out with 1/2x1/2x1/16 aluminium... To weak. So it turned out with 1/2 aluminium channel.
    Still thinking for a light closing mechanism...

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    The engine is now ready to fire, rebuilt and painted stock O-360 C4P. Test fit the engine and custom engine mount.
    I did cut the AtleeDodge crossover to built a 2 down pipes exhaust no muffler. Didn't want the muffler in the back of the engine.
    Throttle cable is on, for pilot only.

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    I took a look to see if everything seem good with the bashed cowling. Fit like a glove. But I think I will wait for the cowling choice or fabrication.... Budjet start to be tight to finish the project... This plane will fly with baffles only if needed....

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    And I had a little fun with my handbrake-flap handle. A cut and lenghted car brake handle, with a bycicle handle for detent.
    A lot of work for a flap handle.
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  8. #88
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Olibuilt,
    I have a 2 down pipes exhaust no muffler system. I found that the fuel screen could not go where you have yours because the tail pipe would either hit it or was so close that the heat of the exhaust would cook the gasoline. Too dangerous for me. The fuel gascolator ended up outboard of the engine mount. I suggest that you finish your exhaust system before you settle on the gascolator location.
    N1PA

  9. #89
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    I see what you're talking about. Will choose between moving the gascolator, or putting a vented shield around it.

    So after receive the SS tubing, the downpipes are done. Need to do the exhaust support and muffs.

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    Thanks Jonnyo thanked for this post

  10. #90
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Olibuilt,
    Be sure to make your supports so that they support the weight of the tail pipes and that they connect to the aft end of the engine. The supports need to be able to move with the engine. If you do not, you will likely develop cracks at the "Y" joint. There are many ways to accomplish this.
    N1PA

  11. #91

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    Olibuilt,

    Where in Eastern Canada are you? I may want to come over and give you encouragement

    Jim

  12. #92
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    A little update on the project.

    I putted the wings on for a last time (I hope) before covering.. Did the struts, jury struts, cables, etc.

    Everything square, and a little less dihedral than stock.
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    5/8 forks, and aluminium struts
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    Some tubing from Univair to do the jury struts.
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    The jury are now seal welded and oiled inside to prevent corosion. I-bolt straight trough the struts, with a spacer inside.
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  13. #93
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    And this week the things got back from the powdercoat!! Fuselage, struts, fittings, jurys, engine mount, flap handle, doors, tail, cabin heat box, instrument panel, etc...
    Took them a month to do it, but I had a good deal at 500$.



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    So now time to assemble for good!

    Found some ''scrap'' honny comb carbon fiber about 3/8 thick. Will save about 7lbs form the stock wood I had. But alot of work.
    Copying was the easy part having the stock floor boards. But sleeving and sealing was another thing.

    Had to cut a ''V'' patern just front of the under seat storage. The carbon fiber did not want to flex enough to follow the curve. Will be a good place to shop vac the belly I hope...

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    I choose to sleev the things with small aluminium spacers to prevent the rudder pedals and the brake form getting loose.
    Choose to glue them with 2 components sandable black epoxy. 26 of those little spacers....

    Also sealed all the cuts with the stuff.

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    Almost finish for the floors. The left one pictured (rear floor) had some bash in the middle. Will be covered later with .016 aluminium.
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    Strigners, baggage door, rear interior on for good.

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    Instrument panel coming together.

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    Front fuel line trough the dash in grommets, to one valve per side.
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  14. #94
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    Did pre-final installation of the boot cowl, before painting inside and outside, I hope... But I really wonder how to fix it. I not sure between SS sheet metal screws with teflon washers, or pop rivets. I affraid pop rivets will do some dents, and affraid scews will loosen...

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    Will do the floarboard removable from the top only with clipnuts (besides the rudder pedals). So I did 2 inspection holes in the bottom cowl. I hope it will easy up the maintenance.

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    Instrument panel in 032'', it was a little weak for primer and control cables. Some left over of cutted ribs were perfect for the application. Light and strong.


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    Thanks Jonnyo thanked for this post

  15. #95
    this would be a title NimpoCub's Avatar
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    Very nice work & innovations. Soon you'll be a very proud man!
    Nimpo Lake Logan... boonie SuperCubber
    200mi (300km) from nearest stoplight... just right! - "Que hesitatus fornicatus est"

  16. #96
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    Really getting close to start my first fabric job... Scary for a rooky. I hope that Stewart glue will help me.

    -Is it ok to put heavy duty fabric on the under side of the elevator and horizontal stab to prevent rock bashing??? Maybe on the belly too?

    Anybody uses the Superflite Pre-Srunk tape, for rib tape and logeron??





    Building is something I start to know, but covering is my next nightmare.

    Thanks for the help

  17. #97

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    you will like the stewart system, by the time your done the first stab you will be comfortable with it and find it is a nice relaxing job with great V.P

  18. #98
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    For the boot cowl, I would recommend #6 screws and Nylon washers -- works fine on mine without loosening. Before final painting, install small head Pan head screws then as the paint first dries, take them out and put in Stainless fillister head screws. A great way to simply paint over screws then end up with the screws looking great unpainted. Polish the heads of the fillister head screws with Simichrome before installing them.
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  19. #99
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    Thanks Darrel, I will follow your advice.

    I installed the electric trim, with 2 limiting switch. I passed the 3 wires protected in the belly stringer to the control stick. I to try to protect the small trim motor from water buy sealing it in a small pill recipient... Relay for the trim comes from a common Chevy pickup truck.


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    Did a tail small baggage acces door, that will serve for inspection and maintenance too.






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    Aluminium doors were a long project on this plane. Trying to keep it light is something very difficult. Have come up with a light open/close mechanism. 2 hand retractable SS spring plunger, a small plastic knob, and 2 home depot SS wires. Works good for now, we'll see later on.

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  20. #100
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    I have really enjoyed your thread. Lots of good info. Thanks for sharing. Great job, keep it up.

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  21. #101
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    Thanks Bill. But a lot of info comes from your built. And Darrel boot cowl. And DW built. etc... I just choose to put 0 nut plate on this plane...


    I just need to start the covering process... I need a kick in the ass to start maybe. I affraid to forget something. Maybe I'll be confident after scrapping a couple yard of fabric.. Masking tape or anti-shafe..? Where to put this or not, shrinking at 300 or 350, tape here, tape there, 2'' here 3'' there, bias in some places, brush, wipe fast, stitch.... I hope to start in a week or so.

  22. #102
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    I did a little place in the garage. Pushing the cub out for a day of work.

    I think the fuselage is ready for covering. Thanks to that forum for all the advices.
    Rudder pedals, cable routing and exiting holes located, etc.
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    Now the covering practive on the tail... After a learning curve, all the tail is done.
    Stewart glue is relatively easy to work with. Combine with SuperFlite medium fabric (heavy under tail surfaces) with Ceconite light pinked tape, it's just straight forward. Stiching is another thing. Happy to have a Laptop computer I can bring in the garage to show me how.... After watching the vid a couple douzene time, I think I get it...

    I choose this knot. Is fun to have a nice teacher!! :


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    Next will be the ailerons, than flaps.
    Still waiting for my replacement blade for my Florian pinkers bought for 5$ on ebay...
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    Still doing test for what primer and paint I'll be using...
    The best result, price and simplicity is with Endura Paint and Primer
    2-3 coats of primer directly on the bare fabric, then 2 coats of color. That's it, no sanding between coats.... if lucky
    http://www.endura.ca/industrial_coatings/aviation.html

    Real test tomorow maybe.
    Last edited by Olibuilt; 07-22-2013 at 07:30 PM.

  23. #103
    Lowrider
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    Oli,

    You are a true inspiration...keep it up!!!
    Somewhere along the way I have lost the ability to act politically correct. If you should find it, please feel free to keep it.

    There are no new ways to crash an airplane no matter how hard you may try!

  24. #104
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    How come your not using the staggerwing knot. Super easy, we are doing a set of super cub wings. Rib stitching went relatively quick


    http://youtu.be/6F7H-rWTBgw

  25. #105
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    Staggerwing Knot is the way to go Jason and I done a wing in a hour and a half.

  26. #106
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    I lost my time with the other knot... Staggerwing is much more simpler. Thanks for pointing it out to me.

    So the tail is painted with nice orange peel after one coat... A little sanding and a final coat of paintand it should look fine I hope...


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    Did the aileron and flaps. Double LE overlap, no tape on the leading edge. A lot of time in those little 4 parts...

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    So I started one wing. Double fabric overlap on the LE too. A good 1 inch glue joint top and bottom


    I glued the fabric about 1/4 passed the LE end to try to hide the facoty fabric end cut under the joint.
    I decided to pinked all 17 feet of bottom to top fabric to try to make the joint dissaper under the futur finishing tape. The factory fabric cut seems thick...





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    Fabric rivets are only use where I did the aluminium skins, and at the tail ribs where the flap cable will go. 2.5'' spacing

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    The rest was stitch at 3.5''
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    Went crazy with inspection rings... Flap/ailerons hinges, crossbrace wires, pulley, etc could be remove I think..

    Did a little aileron cable exit contour out of aluminum. Don't like the leather ones I saw on others.

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    Now we can see a full 17' wing taking shape!!
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    Forgot to say thanks again to all the people helping me!! Would not be there without you.
    Last edited by Olibuilt; 08-05-2013 at 07:04 PM.

  27. #107

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    Oli, you are making great progress. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished plane. Appreciate your postings of your build. Keep it up. Looks great. Greg

  28. #108
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    I hope the plane will be flying next spring... Not in a rush... Don't like to have a deadline, but it looks resonable.

    The primer and paint I'm using is ''Endura''. The primer stick very well to bare fabric. And does not seem to affect the Stewart glue. One coat is enough to stop a 100 watt bulb from going trough. But they say to put 2 coat, what I'm doing. Top coat is Endura too, with a high gloss finish. Add a little orange peel problem on the tail feathers, but we hope to fix it with a little more reducer for the next painting (ailerons, flaps and gaz tank). Endura paint proccess is knowned around here in Quebec. Some like it very much, and some don't.... Like everything in the aviation world I would say...


    2 coats primer:

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    Today was a taping day... About 2 rolls of blue towel... 3 inch tape at the trailing edge folded about a inch in the cove, 2 inch tape top and bottom of the spar. No tape front of LE.

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  29. #109

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    Where did you get the threaded fittings that you used on the ends of your aluminum lift struts, what are they made of and have they been stress tested?

  30. #110
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    I made the fittings myself out of 6061 T6 alu.

    Was not going in that direction untill I made a visit at ''DreamAircraft'' headquarters.

    So I decided to copy there fittings and struts. They made all the testing.
    http://www.dreamaircraft.com/site/in...g_done&lang=EN


    Photo taken at DreamAircraft:

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  31. #111
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    One wing done ready for paint. Just need to paint the ailerons, flaps, slats and bracket, another wing, the fuselage, futur fearings, etc................ Now I understand why they sell plane at that price. So much time.


    My orange peel problem went away with a little douzen 320 grip sanding paper.. Today was painting day. Gas tank, inspection covers, tail feathers again, etc.


    It shines like a bowling ball, for now... 2 top coats of Endura was more than enough for primed parts. I know the paint is heavy, but I wish a shinny Cub.

    I feel a Red Devil coming together!

    Can't wait to see the color in the sun.
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  32. #112
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    That will be easy to see in the snow.
    N1PA

  33. #113

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    looks great, the day of your fist flight will be better then christmas morning when you were a kid. the best part of cover and paint is seeing all your work turning into what you have been dreaming about!

  34. #114
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    Do you have some more pics of the over head flap system? I'd be interested in seeing them.

  35. #115
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaisedByWolves View Post
    Do you have some more pics of the over head flap system? I'd be interested in seeing them.
    Sorry for the delay...

    The handle is a modified old Toyota car handbrake.

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    Here are some fresh pics of the dusty fuselage
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    Modified to have 65* of flap movement

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    Cable routing from handle to pulleys
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    1 cable, 1 pulley and 1 fairlead for each side.
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    Cable guard
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    Bolt upside down beacause of the fuselage tube...
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  36. #116
    beaver18's Avatar
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    Go oli ,keep it up it will fly this winter im shure ,i hope to see you at a fly-in with your new bird

  37. #117
    Lowrider
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    Oli,

    You're showing us all "how to do it" and do it right...on my way to the junk yard for a brake handle.
    Somewhere along the way I have lost the ability to act politically correct. If you should find it, please feel free to keep it.

    There are no new ways to crash an airplane no matter how hard you may try!

  38. #118
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    It's just the way I do it.... Remember I was not even flying 4 about years ago.



    I think the wing are almost ready to paint. I put the gas tank this morning to locate the gas drain hole in the fabric (forgot untill this morning...) And I put 2 seaplane drain hole in the corners of the gas tank aera.

    Now the fuselage. Don't why I missed the aileron stick modification..... Now I need to work with powder coated parts. So I started to fabricate a box, under the stick, to add about 3/4'' of stick lenght.

    So I had to be carefull cutting the tube with my trim wire going trought... Now I need to fab a ''box'' around and add 3/4 about to the stick.
    The thing is doing all this without welding much....

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    My rotato potato also work wit the fuselage!!
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  39. #119
    DW's Avatar
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    Hey Oli
    I see you went with the Coped False spar the full length on your wings I'm sure I missed reading why in here but why?

    DW

    oh and by the way.....the project looks fantastic.

  40. #120
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    Your talking of the ''C'' shape false spar, behind the wing??? I not that good in english being a french canadian....

    I did the false spar like this because I had only acces to C shape ribs at a really good price. And I'm sure it was easier building the wings like this. I did pay attention leaving just a little gap for the flap aera (with hinges fabrication), so maybe no gap seal for the flaps. My aileron and flap ribs being different, little longer flap chord, little more gap for the ailerons, I hope it will make a nice flying wing.

    Never understood the purpuse for differente shape between the 2 false spar anyway.....

    I asked the question before:
    Quote Originally Posted by Olibuilt View Post

    1- Whats up with the difference between wing flaps tunnel and ailerons tunnel ??
    Do I keep it like that or can I put ''flaps tunnel'' all the way?? Don't really understand the difference and I need to buy my stamped ribs soon...

    I hope I did not make a mistake..?? Too late anyway....

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