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Olibuilt 's New Cub project

Your talking of the ''C'' shape false spar, behind the wing??? I not that good in english being a french canadian....

I did the false spar like this because I had only acces to C shape ribs at a really good price. And I'm sure it was easier building the wings like this. I did pay attention leaving just a little gap for the flap aera (with hinges fabrication), so maybe no gap seal for the flaps. My aileron and flap ribs being different, little longer flap chord, little more gap for the ailerons, I hope it will make a nice flying wing.

Never understood the purpuse for differente shape between the 2 false spar anyway.....

I asked the question before:


I hope I did not make a mistake..?? Too late anyway....

Look through Christian's photos (Bugs66) and you will see his flap cove is the same. He seems to get around alright.......

I think the Piper style flap cove is to allow the flap to perform more as a slotted flap.

Andrew.
 
Yea pipers design was for air flow over the flap when deployed .....it will fly just fine ether way.
 
No way I can have the desire finish without any sanding.... Remember it is not Stewart proccess. It Endura primer and paint. My goal is not to hide all the finish tapes, but to have a nice shinny finish.

I decided to give 2 good coats of primer, than a little coat of red. This little topcoat will be my sanding guide for tomorow morning....

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This is what I came up for 3/4'' stick modification without welding to the fuselage. Still need to fab a domed access plate to clear.

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Last time seing the speed holes!

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Heavy fabric on the belly. Bought 7 yards of Superflite heavy fabric. Had enough to cover the lower horizontal tail and fuselage belly.

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Time to cover the first side. Did alot of attention to the vertical fin curve. I now know why it is easy to screw up this transition....
I started buy tacking the lower longeron, than the top stringer. Maybe will do the opposite for the next side... Will only stitch top of vertical fin I think, after reading a little on this forum.

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Fabric layout before shrink.
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First little shrink at around 200-250*
Had the suprise to see sandblast residu between the fuselage and the fabric:x. I had air blast the fuselage but some were left inside and fell while rotating I asume.... Next time I'll put more effort in cleaning real good. I did remove most by passing them trought the fabric....

Kind of funny seing a cub without any rear window. It will match the square wings....


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Belly drain holes around the stick acces.
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Fabric reinforment for recessed lower gas drain.

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Drain holes and inspection hole for futur snow removal maybe. Don't worry, all the little wrinkle will be iron out.

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Still in the covering process.

Would have loved to have a thread with picture of a cover job. Keep in mind it is my first one, so don't do like I do.


Glue tacked the vertical fin transition first for the second side. Was not better of worst... Was still able to take all the wrinkle out with a light first shrink.

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I found that weight were handfull for gluing aluminum inspection plate.

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Went creative with heat bent inspection rings. Only for rear gear fitting, for aileron cable exit:

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6 hours of sanding later, the ailerons and flaps were ready for final coat. I'm pretty happy with the result.

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Nothing special here. Wings on primer, time for sanding....

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Getting ready to put the base coat on the fuselage too to seal it. I reaallly hate the painting process.
Should have went with Oratex$ fabric.

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OliBuilt: I have been following your build from the very beginning and I am amazed at the progress you have been making. I would imagine that when you first started you thought there would never be the end to the project. Looks to me like you have really been putting out the effort and it shows. Keep up the good work won't be to long before its complete.

Jon
 
your on final with the field in sight! keep going can't wait to hear your flight reports!
 
Paint boot morning. Primer than a red coat for sanding reference.

It will be a sanding fall season, mixed with work and moose hunting.



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When it's red, it's red.....
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What a pain in the ass to sand all this polyurethane top coat.... Was like sanding a BullDozer. I now realize that a high build primer must be easier to sand. Too late anyway to change. Next time I think will try Steward System if I want a high gloss finish, or Oratex fabric if I want a quick and light finish...

The fuselage just got the final top coat. Was running all over the paint boot to minimize the over spray. Don't know why, but it was drying too fast today.

After a good sanding:

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Little ding here and there, but I'm really happy with the result.

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Thanks for the comments.

Been working on the firewall before final installation. Firewall insulation blanket from raw material from aircraftspuce. Deceided to cover it with a mesh type of fabric to match my composite floorboard and interior. Glued with 3M spay glue. I like it.

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Fuselage out the paint shop. The shine exeed my expectation. You can clearly see the car behind in the paint. Sad it was not a sunny day.

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So yesterday, was so happy untaping the fuselage, I tought it needed some parts.

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But I don't like the look of the bare fabric interior top part of the fuselage. So it's gonna be painted semi-gloss black, with paint brushes I think...


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Black will make the interior awfully dark. Especially since there are no rear windows.
Also, what type of paint will you use that won't affect the exterior paint?
 
All the painting process is Endura industrial coating. Primer on bare fabric (on Stewart glue) is Endura flexible epoxy urethane primer sealer, used to seal the fabric and protect from the uv.
Top coat is Endura flexible polyurethane paint high in solids (heavy...) but also supposed to work as a uv barrier my vendor says. The shine is perfect for now, I hope it will past the years. Couple planes painted with this process around here with good long lasting result. But a guy told me this Endura paint was breaking like glass a couple days after.... I'm sure he didn't use the flexible version.

My white cub is painted with that stuff, and is the paint seem perfect after 8 years outside, from -40 celcius to +40 celcius.

I'm not sold to that stuff, and I would maybe try something different if another project comes. But this red machine will be all painted red with Endura, fabric, aluminum and steel.

I'm not saying this is the stuff to use, I may have done a mistake too. This stuff is really a pain to sand.



For the black interior, it is my goal to have a dark interior. Black floor, black Kydex interior, black firewall, black inside bootcowl, black seats, with the red tubes glowing in the dark. I will again use Endura primer-sealer, than Endura semi-gloss flexible paint. Will do a test before to see if it affect the exterior paint but I really doubt it will.
 
I was just concerned that the primer might dissolve itself when applied on the interior side of the fabric and ruin your hard work. But being that it's epoxy urethane, I rather doubt it.
 
Stewart Systems filler coat is a dark grey and brushes well with the foam bushes and won't dissolve the existing primer.

Just another option.

Andrew.
 
Thanks for the concern and info.
I really like the Latex option. It would be much better for my health than brushing the killer bulldozer paint.


Tempdoug: Did you put a primer before using the Valspar Premium emanel paint??

Dark grey Stewart is another excellent idea.
 
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OLI, I didnt use a primer because i wasnt concerned about the nice car like look on the interior, but still happy with my results, my opinion. The foam brushes worked good and a narrow one for between the tubes and fabric.
 
I used Stewart brush on primer on all my interior exposed fabric and I like the finished look.
 
For the black interior, it is my goal to have a dark interior. Black floor, black Kydex interior, black firewall, black inside bootcowl, black seats, with the red tubes glowing in the dark.


Oops, only crazy people don't change there mind....

My friend had EkoFill leftover. So I did a test, and it was perfect for me. This stuff is really easy to apply. I wonder why I did not went with Stewart system all the way.

So dark grey it will be.





First little afternoon inside this plane...


Thanks for the help btw


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Can I shot Ekofill on the inside of the bootcowl before intalling it. Will it stick on bare aluminum??


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By the way, I was doing some ruff mathematic today..

I removed a couple pounds mainly in front of the wings. I hope I will not have a tail heavy cub??

ruff numbers:
-5 pounds 016'' titanium firewall
-5 pounds no front interior, light (025'') bootcowl
-30 pound no flywheel, startor, big alternator, wires, brackets, etc
-25 pounds when I'll buy a light prop (Catto, Gt, or P-tip)
-5 pounds on light instrument panel
-2 pounds carbon fiber front floor
-2 pound custom exhaust no muffler

So ruffly 70 pounds less in front, but 55 at the front of the engine.
By chance I've putted a O-360. How much more for the O-360 compare to O-320??

Added rear weight:

-3rd seat fuse mod
-beffed top fuselage, and beefed tail
-metal round stringers
-big ass tail wheel
-extended light baggage aera
-17' slatted wings, 61g gas, big flaps
-etc


I really hope I will not need to carry my baggage up front??
What do you guys think?


Thanks again
 
Looks great ... I just shot a text off to Jason so maybe he'll jump in here and answer that for you.
 
Good question!! I asked Jason if I could use Stewarts over zinc phosphate primer and he said it was not recommended. I'm still waiting for an answer on whether a quart of their primer will cover a cub tube fuselage.

In the mean time, I bought some Rust Oleam appliance epoxy to cover the zinc phosphate (tube and Alum) I've already applied. I want to use the Stewarts System so I don't want to get ahead of myself.
 
Olibuilt

I think your numbers may be optimistic. I may be off, but this would be my guess.....
ruff numbers:
-5 pounds 016'' titanium firewall - Probably closer to two pounds
-5 pounds no front interior, light (025'') bootcowl - Closer to 2.5 pounds
-30 pound no flywheel, startor, big alternator, wires, brackets, etc - 25 pounds
-25 pounds when I'll buy a light prop (Catto, Gt, or P-tip) - 20 pounds or less. Remember you are comparing it to a 0-320 prop which is much lighter than an 0-360 prop.
-5 pounds on light instrument panel - depends, you might be right on this, if you are looking at just the blank panel less than a pound,
-2 pounds carbon fiber front floor - yep
-2 pound custom exhaust no muffler - yep

So ruffly 70 pounds less in front, but 55 at the front of the engine.
By chance I've putted a O-360. How much more for the O-360 compare to O-320?? Depends on what you used and what you are replacing it with. Could add as little as 5 pounds or as much as 40 or 50. Angle valve engines are heavier. Some models of the 0-360 are much heavier than others. Dynafocal is heavier than conical. There are so many variables.

Bottom line is you took some weight off the front but added some back in. I'll bet you added 50 pounds with the wings and tanks. My guess is when all is said and done you will be at 1150 on Bushwheels, maybe 1175.
You do not have to worry at ALL about being tail heavy. No 0-360 powered cub (that I know of, including the highly modified and light Breeden cub) has ever been tail heavy. I'll bet you a beer you are within an inch of the forward limit.

My opinion only. Project looks great and it has been fun and informative to read your thread. Thanks for posting.

​Bill
 
EkoPrime sticks to aluminum fine as long as it's properly prepped.

- That being said...

I would not recommend any single part primer in an area where you will be exposing that primer to "aviation fluids" because single part primers are not solvent or stain resistant. If you want the same charcoal grey look I would use our EkoPoxy in the same charcoal grey color as the EkoFill. It passes a 2000 hr salt spray test and sticks great to properly prepped aluminum. Personally I would just glue some of this on the inside of the boot cowl or leave it bare unless you operate in salt water a lot.

I'm not sure you'll like the dark interior.. My L21 is all brown on the inside and it sucks trying to see anything without a flashlight.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/ap/insulation/supersoundproofsheet.php

the majority of cabin noise is from the A pillar forward



Jason
 
The thing is I would like to shoot the inside visible part of the bootcowl before installing it. And my bootcowl is not prebent, it will be formed around the plane, than screw.
So I think I would need flexible paint, mainly near the floor bent. Will EkoPoxy handle the bent?? I don't want a shinny paint, and now I want it dark grey...


Bill, I'm sure your right. But I was comparing to the equipment that loaded cub 180hp had... I would be very happy at around 1150 on Bushwheels

The engine is a straight mount O-360 C4P roller cam manufactured in december 2008
 
The EkoPoxy will handle that bend but I would form the boot cowl, drill the holes, debur and then prime and re-install. The absolute most important part to getting any primer to stick to aluminum in making sure the aluminum is clean before and especially after it's been etched. Do a water break test http://www.ctgclean.com/tech-blog/2011/08/is-it-clean-oil-and-hydrophobic-films-water-break-test/ Properly etch it using red scotch-brite to mechanically scuff the surface while the surface is wet with the etch and work the area for 3 min then rinse. I highly recommend pressure washing after etching to remove all residue. If you wipe the aluminum with a white towel and some lacquer thinner and the towel turns grey you still have residue on the surface that will reduce the ability of any primer to stick to the aluminum.

Jason
 
Thanks again Jason. I will try to buy a few onces of EkoPoxy from Mr. Monet from Hawkesbury Ontario




Did not have much time to put on the project lately.

But today, I was looking at the crashed CubCrafters split cowling I have. It is in pretty bad shape. Having no fiberglass experience, do you think I should give a try fixing it??

I did start to remove the paint easily.


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The right side is almost perfect...

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