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Olibuilt 's New Cub project

Glenn
I have been trying to figure how to stick a tailwheel in the same position for the past two years. I have done a lot of internet search but this is the first time I have seen that pic. Too low for off field work but would be a fun fly-in setup (I would addd a rear skid just in case). If you compress a steel or T3 tail spring on takeoff the drag is going to cost you 10-30 feet in take off distance.
DENNY

Yup, I know. But I was making a point that the T3 will keep your AOA

And your right about off field, I flew my J4 on skis for 4 winters and the elevators are in the snow. Have to be careful if the plane slides backwards on a slope, if you don't hold the stick forward the elevators will dig in.





Glenn
 
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Here’s another way to gain some AOA.
1-delicately notch the rudder for added wheel travel
2-invert leaf spring
3-run a flat tailwheel (good for another 1” of AOA)
My attempt at obtaining field approval however failed, plane has since been restored to original configuration.

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There is another advantage to the TW that far forward. I have done some very short dropped in landings in my J4. The spring will flatten out but the TW just bottoms out on the bottom of the fuse. I once broke the single main leaf spring while landing short trying to impress Timmy at breakfast on hard frozen ground. Other then the dragging TW holding on by the steering springs there was no damage to the rudder other then grass stains and bouncing TW poking a few holes thru the fabric. Welded spring back together and off we went.

Glenn
 
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I'll take the winter to think about the wingtips. But Backcountry Cubs wingtip quick attach sound like a good idea.



Just came out the paint shop. Primer is on. Took the time to modified my front seat. To fold, and to be able to slide it from the right side....?? at last....

Tomorrow I will begin to cover the 3x3 elevators.


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you have a idea there oliver, just form a half moon into the rudder, wouldnt that work, be a eye catcher showing you mean business.
 
Glenn
I have been trying to figure how to stick a tailwheel in the same position for the past two years. I have done a lot of internet search but this is the first time I have seen that pic. Too low for off field work but would be a fun fly-in setup (I would addd a rear skid just in case). If you compress a steel or T3 tail spring on takeoff the drag is going to cost you 10-30 feet in take off distance.
DENNY
use a round stinger for your tail spring and form a halfmoon into the bottom of the rudder, just a thought.
 
I'll take the winter to think about the wingtips. But Backcountry Cubs wingtip quick attach sound like a good idea.



Just came out the paint shop. Primer is on. Took the time to modified my front seat. To fold, and to be able to slide it from the right side....?? at last....

Tomorrow I will begin to cover the 3x3 elevators.


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Putting the lever for releasing the slide for the seat on the right side MAKES WAY TOO MUCH SENSE !!!!!!! Having to reach over the seat and most of the time having to pull out the seat cushion; is just a poor design. It's great seeing all of the important, common sense improvements, in this airplane. Like the homemade forward flap handle, it's inspirational seeing actual experimental ideas tested instead of just a list of gadgets bought off the web.
 
The grey 3x3 elevators compared to stock red one.

Will try to paint them this week.


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At Johnson Creek a couple years ago, Jim Richmond of Cub Crafters, took my folding full sized e bike for a spin (among others). Upon his return, we talked about how it would fit in a SC.....to my surprise, the pilot seat, as I recall anyway, did NOT flip forward, making getting the folded bike in problematic, at best.

I was ready to write a check out for an X Cub, but luckily I discovered this shortcoming in time, so I'm still making do with the Rans S-7S. Ha ha. Point being, the folding seat is a no brainer, I'd bet once having one, none go back to a fixed?
 
If you make a seat fold also add provisions to lock it upright. In a crash stuff may come forward and pin you. Had one guy whose non folding seat was quite bent by moose quarter that hit seat and exited the door/window.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Olibuilt mentioning moving the seat slide release to the right side of the seat is another great idea by him. It will make maintenance with the spring and catch easier.

A stock Supercub seat can be removed in 2 seconds by depressing the slide release with your left hand. It goes back in almost as easily, if your seat is not in poor condition. With 2 small, welded on, guide rails, that might weigh half an ounce, the seat can be replaced in complete darkness with my Winter gloves on. I remove mine all the time, and set it on top of a Rubbermaid tub, when I am in hunting camp. A 1 inch ratchet strap down the center of the seat holds it to the tub. Why bring a 5 pound chair?

If I have only stopped to pick up a load of meat, it takes 1 second to run the seat forward to where it's ready to fall off the rails in the front. In that position, I can easily load moose quarters. For me, a folding seat is just another 1 pound gizmo, I don't need.

Jonny


At Johnson Creek a couple years ago, Jim Richmond of Cub Crafters, took my folding full sized e bike for a spin (among others). Upon his return, we talked about how it would fit in a SC.....to my surprise, the pilot seat, as I recall anyway, did NOT flip forward, making getting the folded bike in problematic, at best.

I was ready to write a check out for an X Cub, but luckily I discovered this shortcoming in time, so I'm still making do with the Rans S-7S. Ha ha. Point being, the folding seat is a no brainer, I'd bet once having one, none go back to a fixed?
 
They fold and then whatever is forcing that from the rear can push the pilot into the shoulder harness or eat the panel. The setup needs to be lockable until folding is required. Use a safety cable or whatever to lock the back upright. I know it'll never happen but think about the consequences if it does. I've had both and yes folding makes loading easier. The front stick gets in the way for removing a fixed seat. It's easy to remove and replace the stick while loading if a quick release pin is installed.

Gary
 
They fold and then whatever is forcing that from the rear can push the pilot into the shoulder harness or eat the panel. The setup needs to be lockable until folding is required. Use a safety cable or whatever to lock the back upright. I know it'll never happen but think about the consequences if it does.
Gary

I think the proper precaution is to restrain your passenger and cargo so nothing is free to hit the seat back.

With a folding seat back and a slip-on seat back cushion I can pull the cushion and fold the seat flat. No need to move it for access.
 
I think the proper precaution is to restrain your passenger and cargo so nothing is free to hit the seat back...

Yes in theory. But given a chance or without thinking the passenger will brace themselves with their arms on the pilot's setback. Same for a dog that can be thrown forward. All I'm suggesting is adding some form of restraint to the folding seat that can be released to allow it to fold flat. Invention, etc.

Gary
 
Yes in theory. But given a chance or without thinking the passenger will brace themselves with their arms on the pilot's setback. Same for a dog that can be thrown forward. All I'm suggesting is adding some form of restraint to the folding seat that can be released to allow it to fold flat. Invention, etc.

Gary
i agree, a simple quick release pin would do it
 
i agree, a simple quick release pin would do it

Here's a YouTube grab of a Cub's folding seat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jidOe1vkqK0

One option might be to move the centering pins or tangs from the folding portion's bottom to the rear seat crossbar. Then with the seat back upright extend them through and to the rear of the lower folding portion and pin/bolt the exposed ends (?). If that substantially changes the STC then just add a center tang to the rear seat base between the pins, a passthrough slot in the lower back, and pin the exposed part.

There's probably a better way and someone who does this work might figure it out.

Gary
 
I just add 2 tabs on base of sliding seat and drill through seat back and add quick pins. Right where the hand is in picture


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Here's a YouTube grab of a Cub's folding seat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jidOe1vkqK0

One option might be to move the centering pins or tangs from the folding portion's bottom to the rear seat crossbar. Then with the seat back upright extend them through and to the rear of the lower folding portion and pin/bolt the exposed ends (?). If that substantially changes the STC then just add a center tang to the rear seat base between the pins, a passthrough slot in the lower back, and pin the exposed part.

There's probably a better way and someone who does this work might figure it out.

Gary

I was thinking the same thing on my seat Mike that is my YouTube video
 
I had the time to install and flight test the 3x3 elevators. They are only .1 pound heavier per side, according to my amazon luggage scale. Medium fabric and less paint could have contributed.

My girlfriend was aboard, wind a little gusty too, so real testing will be another time.

The ''new'', now black skis are working good too.

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Seems like ya almost got your tail able to get all the lift outta the wing before ya run out of pitch!
 
Yesterday was a good practice day. I cannot say the elevators have shortened the landing distances yet.

But I did not ran out of elevator authority like it happened a few times before. Test was not so relevant because I trimmed more nose up than before, your fault.....


Hope you like:











 
That's just plain beautiful, Oli--well, except for the cracked tires!

I was going to ask if the slats were movable, but I see at the final part of the clip that they close up at rest. I think you have a dream plane.

Vic
 
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