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Olibuilt 's New Cub project

I'd love to hear how it props on the pmags (9volt battery method?). I have not switched over yet as I am a hand propper. I bet it work better than my dual impulses but I have never tried it...
 
Exhaust Crankcase Vent

be sure and clean that crankcase vent at each oil change if it does like the Carbon Cubs. It will coke up and block off.



Anybody have a picture/description of the Carbon Cub system ? Which model/year has it ?

Thanks !

Jonny
 
I'd love to hear how it props on the pmags (9volt battery method?). I have not switched over yet as I am a hand propper. I bet it work better than my dual impulses but I have never tried it...


Motosix: Have you switched to Pmags and still handpropping ?


Olibuilt: How about you. Handpropping with Pmags ?

thanks,

Jonny
 
Motosix: Have you switched to Pmags and still handpropping ?


Olibuilt: How about you. Handpropping with Pmags ?

thanks,

Jonny

stay away from electrical stuff, automobiles and machinery have taught me that very well. constant nightmares and downtime.
 
Motosix: Have you switched to Pmags and still handpropping ?


Olibuilt: How about you. Handpropping with Pmags ?

thanks,

Jonny

Not yet - I am still on dual impulse slick mags.

The circuit required to energize the Pmag at low RPM looks easy enough and it should start just as "easy" on them, but I have not yet made the plunge. I am hopeful Oli will tell us "it starts easier on pmags" since he hand propped for a while before making the switch to having a starter & ring gear.
 
A flight trip is planned for September. I need to try this 9v battery thing before going....


Will let you know for sure.
 
A flight trip is planned for September. I need to try this 9v battery thing before going....


Will let you know for sure.

I think it accepts a range of voltages so you could just wire into the main battery just to test. I imagine the idea behind a separate battery is that if you are hand propping, your main battery is probably dead...
 
Even is the main battery is considered dead, it more than likely will still supply 9 volts or so.
 
Even is the main battery is considered dead, it more than likely will still supply 9 volts or so.

My main battery is a EarthX ETX36C. I think it is the kind of battery that automatically shuts down, to prevent over discharged...
 
I bought a pair of Fluidyne 3000 Fli-Lite skis.

IMG_3397.JPG




Replaced the plastics bottoms and fabricated some parts so they fit on my Cub
Wanted to delete the small rear ski wheels, but seem to complicated...

Rear small wheel will by added soon


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Will try those electric actuator: IP68M Model PA-10 12'' of stroke 450lbs force, bought at progressiveautomations.com


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I will rig them suspension fully extended, at the fuselage, will those directions:
So cables will be slack when on the ground, suspension compressed...

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140lbs garage door springs
ski up - ski down
Ski angle changes a lot!

IMG_3755.jpg IMG_3756.jpg





This is my first time with retractable skis.
Am I missing something??



Thanks again!
 

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Oli, the 450 lb actuator is just barely strong enough.
I rigged up a scale to see how much force it took to push the plate under the tire. For about 2 seconds the scale went to 400 lbs. Then down to 200lbs. Should work, time will tell




Sent from my Pixel 2 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
Oli, the 450 lb actuator is just barely strong enough.
I rigged up a scale to see how much force it took to push the plate under the tire. For about 2 seconds the scale went to 400 lbs. Then down to 200lbs. Should work, time will tell




Sent from my Pixel 2 using SuperCub.Org mobile app

On the ground with the weight of the plane?

Glenn
 
View attachment 52919







140lbs garage door springs
ski up - ski down
Ski angle changes a lot!

View attachment 52920 View attachment 52921





This is my first time with retractable skis.
Am I missing something??



Thanks again![/QUOTE]

FliLite ski angle changes very little whether up or down. On my old -12 mine were rigged flat. You're going to be wallowing in the air with wheels down.

I'd move the aft check cable further back on the longeron.
 
Last edited:
FliLite ski angle changes very little whether up or down. On my old -12 mine were rigged flat. You're going to be wallowing in the air with wheels down.

I'd move the aft check cable further back on the longeron.




Will try to move the rear cable to the rear float fitting, first light tomorrow morning!


Mine are with 8.00 x 6 if it maters.

Thanks again
 
Just thinking out loud.... can you. Change length f rear cable as ski goes up or down by pulling on it??? To keep angle in line? Or add a hard ski nose up stop?


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Just thinking out loud.... can you. Change length f rear cable as ski goes up or down by pulling on it??? To keep angle in line? Or add a hard ski nose up stop?


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org

I've tried to add a cable to the electric ski plate, to a ''pulley'' at the rear of the ski, to the fuselage. Too complicated I think
 
Very interesting cubdriver. I think anyone with retracts can sympathize with Olibuilt's rigging issues! It's all a compromise, but your use of the that rear cable spring has got me thinking. I have a pretty steep ramp I have to transition out of my hangar, and it taxes the cable limits as now rigged but since it all seems to be working for the last several years I won't mess with it for now, but will keep that spring idea in mind. One clue I have is the deformed thimbles on my 1/8 cables...... and I see from some video that I could "get away" with a bit more nose down on the Datums when in flight, but that would make my ramp angle thing worse. It makes my head hurt if I think about it too hard, but it's always good to have a different viewpoint.

My old trick that I used to rig hang gliders and ultralights, of using electrical split bolts to temp secure cables (without hurting or deforming the cable at all) was a huge help in rigging my Datums.
 
It is a little hard to tell from the picture because I don't think that is level flight for the plane (firewall vertical) Just from the pictures it looks like the rear check cables are to long, making the nose of the ski sit too high in flight. Could be just the picture.
DENNY
 
With retractable wheel-skis, the front and rear cables should be parallel, or nearly so. Otherwise the ski will change its pitch attitude considerably.

Move the front cable to the lower engine mount.
 
With retractable wheel-skis, the front and rear cables should be parallel, or nearly so. Otherwise the ski will change its pitch attitude considerably.

Move the front cable to the lower engine mount.

I would have been that route But I can't! 2 exhaust pipe right bellow the engine mount bolts...






I did try to move the rear cable to the rear float fitting. No improvement there..



IMG_3759.jpg




So it will be flying ski down position.





Now struggling with those little heavy hard tires and retractable wheel thing....

IMG_3760.jpg
 

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First level the plane to cruise attitude. Your rear cables are too long.The rear cable length controls the ski position in flight. I rig everything with string/cord first before cutting cable. You can rig a cable between float fitting and rear gear fitting with a steel ring in the middle somewhere that you can attach the rear ski cable to.

Glenn
 
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