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Need Help Running Hot

Evan

Evan

MEMBER
Gonzales LA
OK I have a 0320 150 hp it started running a little hot last summer over the winter no problems this summer temps were getting 230/240
so i checked and re checked the baffling. Next i brought to ap he checked changed the vtherm still hot next new eci titan cylinders still running hot
next was the rear mount cooler it was a older aluminum cooler that Niagara crossed to be equal to there 20002 model so i ordered the larger 20003 model with 9 rib core
new lines installed to cooler checked the cooler line placements where they come to and from cooler, engine oil pressures good but still running 230/240
1400 hrs on bottom cam everything looked good when cylinders where changed . I just don't know what else it would be but please give me your ideas
what am i missing ? oh and let me say it doesn't just go straight to hot quick it takes about 30 mins to get there, and we checked the temp gauge its right
 
Do you have the oil cooler plumbed correctly? Oil should go in the bottom and out the top or you'll get air pockets in the cooler.
 
Tim its not plumped that way it was aways plumbed high pressure side in the top discharge out the bottom could that be the problem
any experience with this? i have heard that but the ap's here say it did matter but ill try it let you know
 
My C90 is runnning a little hot too. 215-220....then I was taxiing up to the dock and switch failed....couldn't turn off.....not a big deal, unless you are approaching a dock on floats! Do you suppose my mag switch crapped out....or have you heard of hot engines continuing to run because of hot deposits???/someone told me that was possible. I think I need an outlet on the bottom of the cowl for the cooling, but the mag switch problem seems intermitten.....any suggestions?
 
If you have "Blow-by" past the rings the hot gases wind up heating the oil.

Compression?

There is a check using a ASI as a manometer but I don't have figures.


HOW did you check the baffles?
 
Evan, do you have a CHT instrument? If so what are the temps.? If your CHTs are 350 to 370 in cruise and your oil temp is still high, I'm not sure what it is. If your CHTs are 400 or higher, I'll PM you what it might be.

Tim
 
Dan Gervae said:
My C90 is runnning a little hot too. 215-220....then I was taxiing up to the dock and switch failed....couldn't turn off.....not a big deal, unless you are approaching a dock on floats! Do you suppose my mag switch crapped out....or have you heard of hot engines continuing to run because of hot deposits???/someone told me that was possible. I think I need an outlet on the bottom of the cowl for the cooling, but the mag switch problem seems intermitten.....any suggestions?
Click to expand...

yes mag switchs go bad, there is an AD about this on the bendix brand switch...

http://www.ercoupe.net/ads/76_07_12.html

here part of it, more at the page above...

76-07-12

BENDIX IGNITION SWITCHES

Amendment 39-2575 as amended by Amendment 39-3024

Applies to All aircraft employing magnetos and using Bendix ignition switches
listed in the table below except switches identified by four digit date code (new)
adjacent to the model number or a white dot (modified) on the support plate
adjacent to the Bendix logo.

Rotary Action,
Bendix Switches Key or Lever Actuated
Switch Function Bendix (series) Part Numbers
Twist-to-Start 10-357XXX, 10-126XXX
Twist-to-Start/Push-to-Prime 10-357XXX, 10-126XXX
Push-to-Start 10-357XXX, 10-126XXX, 10-157XXX

Compliance required as indicated:

1. For switches subject to this AD, conduct the following checks within the
next 100 hours' time in service and each 100 hours thereafter to detect
possible switch malfunction:

(a) Observing regular ground run-up procedures, allow the engine to
reach operating temperatures and perform a normal magneto check.

(b) With the engine at normal idle, rotate the switch key or lever through
the "OFF" detent to the extreme limit of its travel in the "OFF"
direction.

(c) If the engine stops firing, this indicates an airworthy switch.

(d) If the engine continues to run with the switch in the extreme "OFF"
direction indicating a malfunctioning switch, prior to the next flight
accomplish Part III outlined in Bendix Service Bulletin No. 583, dated
April 1976, for Repair and Replacement or use an alternate method
approved by Chief, Engineering and Manufacturing Branch, Eastern
Region.

2. The aircraft may be flown in accordance with FAR 21.197 to a place
where these modifications can be accomplished.

3. The checks required by this AD may be performed by the pilot.

4. Upon submission by an operator with substantiating data, an FAA
Maintenance Inspector subject to prior approval of the Chief, Engineering
and Manufacturing Branch, FAA Eastern Region may adjust the
compliance times specified in this AD if the request contains
substantiating data to justify the increase for the operator:

NOTE

If the engine continues to run when complying with paragraph 1 and
repair or replacement cannot or will not be accomplished immediately,
the magneto (primary circuit) should be grounded in accordance with
Bendix Service Bulletin No. 583, dated April 1976.

Amendment 39-2575 was effective April 14, 1976.

This amendment 39-3024 is effective August 30, 1977.
Click to expand...
 
Evan could your engine be running lean. Not sure what other equipment on your engine. I remember my mechanic telling me that they had to richen up a carb on an o-320 when they put on upgrade exhaust.
 
Two things come to mind, one, a bad -New vern, the second is the verns housing assembly. They wear out and most likely it's one or the other or even both. I've experienced both situations. remove the oil filter/vernatherm base and boil in water for test. Lycoming has a seat resurface tool but bases are affordable especially the after markets.
 
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To rule out the vernatherm, you could try putting in the spring and ball and see if the oil overheats.
What's the oil pressure been when the oil's running too hot?
 
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When we we're there a few weeks ago we talked through most ideas tossed out. Evan has gone after them all to no avail.

Veri-thingy in/out
Gauge checked
Cabin heat inlet plugged for the season – plumbed not the issue
No change after topping it with new cylinders
This is a nice L21 that was converted to a 150 with a cruise prop.

His temp is a steady climbing (temp, it Louisiana they don’t climb) event with a cruise power setting at sea level in warm humid conditions.

He's not running it terrible hard but we did notice while there playing that our fuel burn and oil consumption was higher than normal,,, I backed the RPM off a bit for being at sea level and that made a difference but I still burned more fuel and oil than at home and we’re not high by any means and none of the other 4 cubs (including Lance’s Green Hornet which has to work pretty hard to keep up with us speed wise) were running anywhere near hot.

Any chance he could have spun a bearing that has not revealed itself in other ways?

Kirby
 
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My oil temperature was running hot like that, tried all the tricks you did. On the way back from OK18, in Liberal, KS, Flip's oil temp reached the red line. I'd had enough, so if it was going to sieze up, it might as well do it in Kansas, where the whole state is a landing area. I decided to help the oil boil more, so gave it full power, without climbing, which sped up the air speed. Lo and behold, the oil temperature dropped 20F. My problem was not enough air flow over the oil cooler, so higher power settings are needed to keep oil under the red line in the summer. I use more fuel too, and especially more fuel when I'm down closer to sea level.

oil flow
air flow
surface area

the oil temperature heat problem is something to do with one of them, you can bet on it.
 
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I decided to help the oil boil more, so gave it full power, without climbing, which sped up the air speed. Lo and behold, the oil temperature dropped 20F. My problem was not enough air flow over the oil cooler, so higher power settings are needed to keep oil under the red line in the summer.

When I attempt to save a little fuel by cruising at 2200-2300 (150,A2B) my oil temp indicates approximately 210-220 (OAT 75, leaned). Increasing to 2400, temp drops to about 190 (rich) and 200 (leaned). I've often wondered what effect the root design of the propeller has on airflow to the cooler. Gary
 
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Mine just the opposite runs cool at low rpms hot above 2200 rpm's took engine off today going to split case rebuild
(put some fresh slap ya momma in it)
 
I have a 0-200a that has had some issues :lol:
If I run at 75% power I am close the maximum oil temperature.
If I run at 65% it drops 10 degrees.
(on a 90 degree ambient day)

So... I say....
Install a lower lip or better yet cowl doors from CubCrafters :lol:
 
Ok engine bottom shot scaring on crank on bearings
Crank already turned so what's the options new crank or find a Serviceable crank ImageUploadedByTapatalk1313435941.124181.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1313435972.373358.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1313435994.437313.jpg
 

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Evan,

So there you have it, too much "Slap" and will burn you bottom every time!

Seriously though very sorry to see that as the issue, but you'll essentially be fresh under the hood after this little set back.

I know some on here have used them too but I would give Aircraft Specialities http://www.aircraft-specialties.com/ in Tulsa (of course) a call for re-manufactured cranks and other needs. If you end up doing business there let us know if there is anything we can do to help from this end.

Kirby
 
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How much under is the crank? Give bob at AC Specialties a call and he can either turn it or has one for sale. Get that case done as well.
 
OLDCROWE said:
Evan,

So there you have it, too much Slap and you'll burn you bottom every time!
Click to expand...

So is there something that is done to an engine to cause this? Too fast on throttle changes, to fast cooling, too short of a preheat? I'd like to learn from Evan's misfortune so I dont have similar problems. Our 0-360 seems to run real hot as well, and the previous owner said that it always ran hot. I am searching for ways to determine if we have a problem with the sensor, or if it really is running close to redline.
 
OLDCROWE said:
Yea Amy, but did ya' :wink:
Click to expand...

I ponied up the guts to do so and figured it would at least be an interesting explanation if anyone ever asked what on earth I was doing . . . ;) So I bit the bullet and clicked it! Don't I just live an exciting life?
 
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