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Building a Javron Cub

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I ordered one of these Baja designs led lights as you reccommended Bill, it came today. Holy discontent! this thing is a flame thrower, I cant believe the output of this thing. I hooked it up to my handy EarthX jump pack and lit up the whole airstrip. I had the deer running and the rabbits jumping, and owls hooting. Very impressive, cant wait to get it into the cub tomorrow. Your double setup pulsing must be something. The whole led bulb movement is so impressive with so little amp draw. Thanks!

jim
 

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Bill Rusk said:
Excellent info Tom. Thanks for posting that link. That is a little different than the one I got from Buldoc. Mine does not have the flange on the bottom, it is more like just a cone, and slides up completely into the sump, so it does not affect the carb location/height, studs, gaskets, etc. But another option for sure.

Bill
Click to expand...

It's been awhile, but it took some filing to get it to fit in the carbon cubs sump.

Tom
 
Bill Rusk said:
Well that is not going to be very good for the airflow. The carb and the sump are not the same size. Turns out Lycoming figured that out a long time ago and they issued SB258 to fix that problem. It is a cone shaped spacer that goes in the sump and creates a smooth air transition between the Carb and the sump. Over the years this has dropped off the radar and I think there are a bunch of engines out there that could benefit from this SB. Over on the Vans website a number of folks have tried it and report much improved CHT and EGT readings. Specifically it evens out the fuel distribution so all cylinders are much closer in CHT and EGT values. Some have even reported gaining static RPM.




This is a copy, best I could find, of the SB.

This part can be hard to find. Lycoming does not have it. I found it at.....
Click to expand...

Actually that service bulletin was to put out for better fuel distribution on O-320 engines in the Apache in very cold conditions. Be interesting to see what it does on your O-360. The O-360 is suppose to have equal length intake tubes and better fuel distribution.
 
Bill Rusk said:
Okay - can someone, who is not an idiot like me, tell me how to type the number eight and not get a stupid smiley face??? Please.

Thank you

Bill
Click to expand...

Actually, it's not typing the "8" that's getting the smiley face, it's typing the "8" followed by a closed parenthesis ")" that does it.
Here's an example of just the 8 by itself - 8.
Here's an example of the 8 followed by ) - 8).

So just don't type the 8 followed by ), or if you need to do so, leave a "blank" space in between: 8 )
 
Did Marvel Shebler ever make carb with a 2-3/8 throat that would fit those studs? Wonder what would happen if she could breath a little bit easier.
 
i've ordered two of the Baja lights. they should be here soon. i hope my avionics guy can wire them up through the 'Skyview' so they Wig Wag.
cheers,
Phil
 
pfjay52 said:
i've ordered two of the Baja lights. they should be here soon. i hope my avionics guy can wire them up through the 'Skyview' so they Wig Wag.
cheers,
Phil
Click to expand...
I bought a flasher at the auto parts store, it didn't work. Then I bought a wig-wag flasher from http://kestrobes.com/beacon.htm It works great. The LEDs have a different current draw than a regular bulb requiring the correct type of flasher.
 
The flasher switch that I recommended above is made for flashers and it's an all-in-one unit. Might be a little more expensive but it certainly seems nice, and works well.


Bill
 
yes, Web. i am installing a Vertical Power unit. will that give me the WigWag function through the Skyview system?
cheers,
Phil
 
Here is a short (19 seconds) video taken by my friend, Buck, that shows the pulse lights. That is some serious bright lights.....
I am very pleased with this.




Hope this helps

Bill
 
According to the Skyview manual you can make a wig wag system. But only with a unit like the VX-1 or similar. Needs to be controlable through a data hook up.

Web

pfjay52 said:
yes, Web. i am installing a Vertical Power unit. will that give me the WigWag function through the Skyview system?
cheers,
Phil
Click to expand...
 
UPDATE

Folks

A lot has transpired since I last posted. Hard to believe it has been 9 months since my last post.
I spent the summer in Alaska. Right around 80 days, and about 150 hours of flying. Here is the thread if you are interested. Lots of photos and video of floatplane flying in Alaska. When home I've given a number of rides and let folks fly my Cub. What a hoot!! Loving it.


http://www.supercub.org/forum/showthread.php?52302-Floats-to-Alaska-2017

As I get ready to do another annual and get the Cub ready for another adventurous summer, I have about 535 hours on my Cub so far. Most of that is adventure flying in Alaska, with a little in Idaho.
Lord willing this year, I hope to spend May in Idaho, June in Alaska on Floats, then in August go North into the Arctic circle, Great Slave Lake, Great Bear Lake, up to Barrow and back. That is a pretty aggressive schedule, so we will see. But ya gotta have a plan........

Do list for this winter maintenance.......

*Put a fuel probe in the pod so I have a cockpit indication of fuel pod quantity. Love the pod and it has been GREAT. Highly recommend
*Still need to work on engine baffling. The plenum worked "OK" but I'm still not happy. CHT's under 400 98% of the time but I was in cool temps all summer.
*I will move the oil cooler off of the back baffling #4 cyl
*Redo some wiring. Do NOT solder wiring. Had some "help" here and it has caused some problems.
*Float maintenance - disassemble, inspect, lubricate, reassemble. Paint bottoms.
*Fix window latch - rivets are working.
*Rear seat belt is sticking
*Rudder post/horn is loose - bush holes
*General maintenance stuff

I will post all this stuff as I go, so..... (hopefully)..... you can benefit from my "lessons Learned", and at 500 plus hours, see how this is all working out.
I am still loving this Cub. Anything I would change has pretty much already been posted, (not much at all).
I will update and work on the index.
I will post findings from my annual and things that you might benefit from.
Also, the wing kit should be delivered next week so that will be in progress......so much to do....so little time.....

Thanks for following

Bill
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This is great news as I'm planning a build with your philosophy to weights.
As been said many times already, THANK YOU for all you are doing.
You have removed MANY uncertainties in my decision making process.
You are a great confidence builder for me to get this accomplished.
 
Thank you Dave. I'm happy to help if I can, YOU CAN DO IT!!! And you will love it.

Jerry

I have the Airglass fuel only pod. Here is a link to my thread with mounting info and stuff

http://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...g-a-Javron-Cub&p=644630&viewfull=1#post644630

The pod has been very helpful, and has increased safety. There are times in Alaska where fuel is a long way away, and when the wx gets bad it offers the safety of being able to make a long divert. It just gives more options. Plans C, D, and E. Nice to be able to refuel while flying. Again increases safety, as you do not have to land in a bad place to get the fuel bags out. The Pod can be removed when not needed, thus saving weight and making the plane a little more fun to fly. The Airglass Pod has the tubes in the rear that allow for the float wires, thus it can be used with floats. Many of the Pods, especially the new carbon fiber ones do not have this feature and thus can't be used with floats.

Link to Airglass website http://www.airglas.com/Home/tabid/331/Default.aspx

Good to hear from you. I'm in Dallas this coming week. Perhaps we can get together.

Bill
 
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That is the same pod I have. I love it.
I put gal markers on each side by the sight glass so I can see at a glance the fuel quantity on the ground. When pump in flight I use the approximate.3 gal per minute rate. I also helps that I have a fuel flow on the JPI monitor.

I will look for you in DAL

Jerry


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Bill, did you make your plenum so the top of the engine case is included or just enclosed the cylinders? Rudder post horn=1 bolt or 2?
 
Hey Bill, can you describe your CHTs a little more? Are they all close to 400? How close are they balanced? Any pictures of your baffles from the top down? Have you tried checking your under-cowl differential pressure?
 
I have a question for Javron owners. I have the pulleys that Javron supplied for the trim. They are both nicely machined and anodized gold but from the get go my cable would slip with the supplied tension spring. I put a heavier spring on and that fixed the problem for a while then they it started to slip again at the small pulley located at the crank. I got tired of it finally and ordered the small pulley from Univair, before I put it on I compared it to the profile of the Javron pulley and noticed that the Univair has a more V shaped notch. The Univar's is also not anodized gold but just raw aluminum.

I put the new Univair one on and it works like a champ. My guess is that Javron did not get the profile correct to grab the cable and that the anodize actually makes it slip easier which in this case is a bad thing....

Anyone else have this problem or is it just me.

Greg
 
Mauleguy said:
I have a question for Javron owners. I have the pulleys that Javron supplied for the trim. They are both nicely machined and anodized gold but from the get go my cable would slip with the supplied tension spring. I put a heavier spring on and that fixed the problem for a while then they it started to slip again at the small pulley located at the crank. I got tired of it finally and ordered the small pulley from Univair,
Greg
Click to expand...
I have a TCOW Cub kit which was built by Javron before they did their own kits.That small pulley is just an idler. If it's not turning there is something stopping it. The shape of the groove is immaterial. The cable slipping would only be on the larger pulleys. I had the same tension problem which I resolved by removing the spring and replacing it with a long screw and nut. Just tighten it until it stops slipping. Made a couple of "L" shaped brackets to replace the spring with the screw through holes in the "L".
 
You are not understanding, not the idler. The drive pulley attached to the hand crank (double groove) Part #U12983-000.

I fixed the problem with the Univair part, I think Javron needs to change design but if no one else has had a problem then I guess it is good.....
 
Our problem was the same, we just fixed it differently. I thought you said "small pulley".

My system would not stay put. The crank would slowly turn by itself in flight changing the trim position. Solved this issue by gluing a piece of leather to increase the side friction on the small idler pulley.
 
Greg

I passed your concern on to Jay. I'm sure he will look into it. He is sensitive to stuff like that, and wants to be sure to get it right. Thank you for your input! Since I have electric trim it did not surface for me.
CamTom12 and Tempdoug - I'll respond in a bit.

Bill
 
I had the same problem on my TCOW with slipping pulleys. I coated the cable where it contacted the pulley groove with Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac. Works perfect with no slippage whatsoever after several months. Before if you had someone hold the trim crank you could move the stab up and down by hand. Now it won't budge. Simple $5 fix so try it it works! Bill could you post a couple of pics of your baffling. I'm pretty good at baffling and both the Cubs I built run in the 365degree range. One is an Aerosport Power O-320 and the other a Lycon O-360 both hot rodded up. Both also have constant speed props. Don
 
Bill Rusk said:
UPDATE

*Redo some wiring. Do NOT solder wiring. Had some "help" here and it has caused some problems.

I'm interested in the electrical issues, now that you have some time on the airframe. Obviously I'd like to know about the issues you referenced. But I'd also like to hear about the items/techniques that worked out. What would you do again and what do you recommend as a builder.

Web
Click to expand...
 
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