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Thread: Building a Javron Cub

  1. #2241
    SJ's Avatar
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    Very nice, Bill! Nice hangar too! We missed going to Sandpoint last year.

    sj
    "Often Mistaken, but Never in Doubt"
    ------------------------------------------

  2. #2242
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    Many thanks Bill. I would have never thought of taking the tail completely off. Good suggestion, even though I’m never in the water 😄😄. Maybe every other year. Thank you also for the Summit Racing link. I previously got on the male end with 7447 ScotchBrite and did a couple hundred round and round “sands” with my fingers until it was once again smooth. Now I can buy a supply of conical seals!
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  3. #2243
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Eggs and "Elk Sausage" for breakfast. Thank you!!!.... Dan!
    Life is good
    Very Blessed.
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  4. #2244
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Folks


    Been a busy spring so I have been remiss in posting. Hope this helps. The annual went well. It took about 160 hours and there are things that still did not get done. I did get the ADSB installed. Since I go through Canada and spend a fair amount of time up there I got the 1090 freq set up verses the 978UAT freq. Now it looks like Canada might even go to "diversity" so I might have to upgrade in the future.
    I am using a Trig T22 transponder that runs through the GRT EFIS display unit and a Safe-Fly WAAS enabled GPS module. That set up took several days to get installed and running. I had to call tech support to get a little help. I had serial port conflicts and could not figure it out. My issue was not in the manual so I was not going to ever get it without tech help. GRT was great as always. Seems to work like a charm now.

    Overall I am quite pleased with the way things are holding up. Nothing unusual to report except........

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    This is what a normal flared fitting looks like.


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    This used to look like the picture above. Note, no flare left. This fitting was leaking (gee what a surprise). If you over tighten a flare fitting this is what eventually happens. Vibration and time will flatten it out. It does not take much pressure to get a good seal. Don't over tighten things.


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    This is what a normal, used, clean, plug looks like (I run automotive plugs)


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    This plug has lead deposits called "clinkers". The arrow points to little balls of lead that accumulate over time and cause fouling. You can dig them out (carefully) with a dental pick.


    So.....this is how I rig my floats.....I'm sure I will be told that I'm doing it all wrong but here goes......


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    Get the floats on and the wires installed and at least firm enough to hold things in place. Without the wires the whole rig becomes a parallelogram and the airplane will list to one side and damage things. Now....run a string under the leading edge of the wing from one wingtip, over the top of the floats, to the other wingtip. I try to get it pretty much directly under the spar. Make sure the string is exactly parallel to the top of the floats. Don't let it touch the top of the floats because it will be hard to tell if it is being deflected. Measure REALLY carefully how high it sits above each float and make it EXACTLY the same from one float top to the other float top. You are dealing with a long lever arm, so to speak, so getting each distance above the float is critical. This establishes the angle of the floats from side to side. The fore/aft line is fixed by the rigging, sometimes referred to as the fish mouth angle.

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    Now you can measure from a common fixed point on each wing to the back of the respective float. By adjusting the wires you can move the floats left or right a little to get the floats to line up with the longitudinal axis of the fuselage. ie the floats are going the same direction as the fuselage. They should be pretty close to start with and you can't make say.....a 3" change..... but you can move it an inch or so....(at least on Wips) ....and you would like to get this within a 1/4 inch or less.


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    Next we will try to get the tops of the floats parallel to the lateral axis. ie they are lined up with the wing. Measure down from a common point on each wing, in this case where the spar connects to the last rib, to that string. Adjust the wires to get the same measurement. I shoot for 1/8" here. You will also have to check the longitudinal measurement (mentioned above) to make sure you don't get it out of whack while doing this one. By using the string you eliminate an un-level floor, or unequal tire pressure, etc.


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    Because of the threads being both left and right, and the fact that I am easily confused, I find it helpful to put a little tape with an arrow to tell me which way to turn to tighten while I am doing this.

    Once you have the rigging set in this manner you can tweak things by adjusting the water rudders a little to finalize and perfect your in- flight handling. Fly it......adjust the water rudders to negate turning tendencies....fly it again.....adjust....fly ....adjust etc. You will then have a clue.....depending on how much offset they are......to the fact that you left them down in flight. The airplane will fly different from the up and down positions.....if you are sensitive enough to pay attention and also if the air is smooth enough. Obviously you won't notice in turbulence. If you get it right you will be able to fly hands off for long stretches. Note:......The airplane needs to fly straight before you put floats on. Get that rigging first. You must get it right, straight, rigged on wheels BEFORE you add the floats.


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    Bottom line.....it was a good annual and I am back in Alaska for the summer.....over Prince William Sound.


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    At the Big Shaheen Cabin......



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    No place else......going to be a great summer.....


    Build that dream airplane.......you won't regret it.

    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 05-11-2021 at 11:24 PM.
    Very Blessed.
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  5. #2245

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    You are the most fastidious person I have ever known. Your attention to detail and pursuit of precision is remarkable. I’ll bet no one at Southwest ever worried when they gave you the keys to the big iron.

    Your fabulous scenic photos look like they were taken by a professional with expensive equipment. Thanks for posting....everything!!!
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  6. #2246
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
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    Because of the threads being both left and right, and the fact that I am easily confused, I find it helpful to put a little tape with an arrow to tell me which way to turn to tighten while I am doing this.
    Bill,
    It is easy to confuse this step. I place the right hand threads on the right side of the plane/floats and the left hand threads on the left. This keeps me from being confused with no need to write notes each time.
    N1PA
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  7. #2247
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Excellent idea. I will incorporate that in the future. Thank you


    Thank you for the kind words Paul. I have been very blessed


    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  8. #2248
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    When we take floats off of a rigged plane we only loosen the wires on one side 5 to 8 turns and mark it. Makes it easy to reinstall in the spring, just tighten those wires back up the same number of turns

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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  9. #2249
    Eddie Foy's Avatar
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    Yeah, but he has a 5 gallon pail of marbles!


    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Heinrich View Post
    You are the most fastidious person I have ever known. Your attention to detail and pursuit of precision is remarkable. I’ll bet no one at Southwest ever worried when they gave you the keys to the big iron.

    Your fabulous scenic photos look like they were taken by a professional with expensive equipment. Thanks for posting....everything!!!
    "Put out my hand and touched the face of God!"
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