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Building a Javron Cub

Folks

I guess it has been a while since I posted. I spent the summer in Alaska, on floats, again this year. But due to "other" flying I only put about 150 hours on the cub. I am currently at about 1250 hours total time and everything continues to work well. Engine seems to be running well with no issues. Emags are great, Garmin 796 and radio work great, Grand Rapid avionics continue to perform perfectly. Really.... the only issues this year were a broken wire on a PTT, and a broken Hydraulic brake line. Still love this Cub and I'm looking forward to a little ski time this winter, and then heading back North in early May 2022. Here are a couple of photos from this summer........


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I went North on the first of May and went to the Trade Show. Thanks to Litecub and Randy Appling for hosting me. This is my Cub in front of the Lake Louise Lodge east of Anchorage near Gulkana


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I spent a little time (not nearly enough) flying this Beaver this summer



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Spent time flying this 206 in the Wrangell-St. Elias area. We ran the mail to McCarthy, Dan Creek, and May Creek, and flew other Part 135 operations.



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Yours truly trying desperately to learn to be a better pilot. Hauling a load in the 206



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Got to spend a little time with friend Rick on the Copper river.



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Then back to my "real" job for a few days, then back to Alaska. Back and forth all summer. Quite a change from Cubs and 206's, to Boeing 737's. This fall I checked out on ETOPS and I've made a few runs to Hawaii now.



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End of the summer, Jay DeRosier of Javron came up to Alaska and we flew my Cub back down the coast and home to Sandpoint. This is over the Bagley ice field which is the southern part of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.



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As soon as we got back home we swapped floats to wheels and went into the Idaho Backcountry for a few days. This is Sept 20th or so and you can see the frost. Cold at night.



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We enjoyed great weather and got to see a lot of the "playground" around the Johnson Creek area. This is Dewey Moore where we stopped in to visit some Elk hunters.


To those of you building...... I know it can be frustrating sometimes, and you wonder what the heck you were thinking when you decided to build an airplane......
but hang in there.......it is worth it. This is what you have to look forward to.

Hope this helps (motivate)

Bill
 

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Bill Rusk said:
Wip 2100A Front Assembly RebuildView attachment 47025REALLY IMPORTANT!!!This bolt head with a grease zerk has a roll pin in it. When you take the nut off the other side DO NOT allow this side to rotate or you will shear the roll pin off and could create a lot of work for yourself.View attachment 47026The other side of this axle has a pretty standard nylon insert nut....3/4" wrench. Remember to lock the other side so it does not rotate when you take this nut off.View attachment 47027This is the roll pin. It is there to keep the axle from rotating so the bearings do the work. Note the washer has a cut out for the roll pin so don't loose this washer.View attachment 47028This is the hole in the axle head that the roll pin goes into. View attachment 47029Next we will take off the front gear assembly. These four bolts. Be sure to keep the bolts and washers in order. They are not all the same and it is a tight fit back there when the gear retracts. If you get them out of place it is going to crunch something when you retract the gear.View attachment 47030The two bolts on the bottom (closest to the wheel) are longer than the top. As the gear retracts the geometry is such that this provides clearance. For whatever reason these bolts are not listed in the parts manual so be careful here.View attachment 47032Be sure to check the bulkheads that the hydraulic ram goes through for cracks. If you get the travel out of adjustment (too long) the gear will hit the stop before the ram hits the end of its travel and that will in turn put pressure on the bulkheads, causing them to flex and at some point crack. So...... check for cracks.View attachment 47033Another bulkhead, another place to look for cracks.View attachment 47031You will need to be able to move the front hydraulic ram. I used the stand-by hand pump and a couple of extra hoses to connect it. No big deal. A= Up B= down S= a reservoir of Hyd fluid.We will use the pump to retract the front gear (the main may move as well depending on where the fluid is) to place the ram arm in the right (accessible) location.View attachment 47034We want this threaded clevis right here so we can unscrew it. There is a lock nut, then you will actually be rotating the ram piston arm to take it off the clevis. This will allow us to get the trolly out the front. This takes patience to unscrew as you can only turn it about 1/8 of a turn per wrench setting. This is also where we adjust the length to avoid cracking the bulkheads. View attachment 47035This long bolt sets the side to side play and we need to remove it to get the trolly out. When you pull the bolt out don't let the trolly fall to the floor. You might damage it.View attachment 47036This is the trolly assembly. The black Delrin slides on the side are what we will be checking. Along with the usual clean, inspect, lubricate and reassemble.View attachment 47037This is what it looks like up in there once the trolly is out of the way. Check the back wall (bulkhead) for cracks. The side arrow shows the rail that the Delrin blocks slide in.The arrows on the front are scrapes from a former life where a mechanic (pilot, or someone) did not keep those 4 bolts that hold the gear leg on to the trolly in the right order. Or he did not use the right washers in the right places. I recommend you do one float at a time, then you can use the other float as an example if you get lost or can't remember how something should go back together. Assuming it was right to start with.View attachment 47038Those little Delrin blocks should slide easily in the tracks. Check each one. This is important. If they bind the hydraulics will have plenty of force/leverage to force it to move but this will then put a lot of stress on the bulkheads holding the ram and probably cause a crack. These blocks will swell over time, especially if you make hard landings or operate from rough runways. They are expensive to replace so I recommend you treat the nose gear with respect. You need to check these blocks and make sure the trolly moves freely every season. You can sand the sides of the blocks to make them slide in the rails. I used 220 paper on a flat surface, followed by 600, 1000, 1500 and finally 2000 grit. Then polishing compound and a dremel tool. You will probably be taking 15 to 20 thousand off. They might mike at .765 and they will need to be about .750View attachment 47039There are three axles in the trolly. Roll them on a flat (glass) surface and make sure they are not bent. Clean, inspect, lubricate and reassemble. Be careful with the snap rings. If one flies off it could be hard to find.View attachment 47040Trolly parts.More to follow. Be sure to follow the Wip manual but hopefully this will supplement things and make it easier.Hope this helps Bill
Click to expand...


Hey bill,
thanks for the write up. I had the fun task of rebuilding the front end of a set of 2100’s. The old(shiny) actuators were leaking and are not rebuildable. They are threaded into the gear box, but there is no flat to grab. These ones were really stuck. Really stuck. I ended up taking the whole gear box out to get them apart. The new style is rebuildable, and there is a jam nut on the back to loosen and they should spin out. You shouldn’t have to take the gearbox out to remove. Thanks for the info on the pieces that slide in the gear box. These didn’t fit, they were very tight. Got them sanded and they work by hand with out the actuator hooked up nice and smooth. You couldn’t move them by hand prior to that.

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Tom

Thanks for the post. Yeah there is a service bulletin to replace those older actuators with the rebuildable newer ones. They are pretty expensive so, I am kind of a replace only as needed kind of guy on that.I am actually going through my floats right now as well.


Hope to see you up in Alaska, if not perhaps Greenville. I hope to be there this year


Bill
 
Bill Rusk said:
Tom

Thanks for the post. Yeah there is a service bulletin to replace those older actuators with the rebuildable newer ones. They are pretty expensive so, I am kind of a replace only as needed kind of guy on that.I am actually going through my floats right now as well.


Hope to see you up in Alaska, if not perhaps Greenville. I hope to be there this year


Bill
Click to expand...

The time estimate they gave was way off. sure is fun taking the actuator off one flat at a time isnt it ?

Greenville for sure, plan on doing some flying the week before.
Both sides of these floats had puddles under them. only 230 hrs sense 2003. I think the new ones were a touch under $2000 each
 
Folks


I have been going through my floats as well right now. What a pain. It is not a pleasant job to disassemble everything, clean, inspect, re-grease, etc. I actually had to go back and reread my own thread in order to remind myself of what to do and the sequence to do it in. The good news is it only took three days this time instead of four. But it sure bruises your arms, hands, and beats you up. It’s a pretty miserable job. At the same time, I will add, I really really like the Wip floats. They have been outstanding.

C9E925AD-7CCE-4481-8437-906302AB81D5.jpg
This is the set up I use to move the hyd rams and exercise the gear when it is no longer on the airplane. I use the standby hydraulic pump, with two lines connected to that particular float, and a third line that goes into a homemade reservoir of hydraulic fluid. A word to the wise, be sure that hydraulic reservoir you create is securely anchored, so that it cannot be knocked, or tipped over.


Lord willing I will leave about 1 May to go up to Alaska for a couple/three months. I do hope to get the airplane to Oshkosh this year and, as mentioned previously, try to make it to the Greenville fly-in.
 

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Bill, Awesome work as usual..........on a tangent, do you have an aux 14v external power plug for doing whatever electrical checks in the cockpit? Denny
 
Denny

No I don't but that is a great idea and I will look into that. What do you use as a power source? I have struggled with this as the EarthX does not like to be run down as you know, and with all this "programable" avionics stuff you need to be able to sit in the cockpit and work on the systems. Ideas? Thoughts?

Thanks

Bill
 
Bill

EarthX has a pigtail to connect to an external power source such as a charger. If you limit current to around ten amps or less, this should work as a convenient 'power plug'. It could be installed directly on the battery as originally designed, or installed down stream of the master relay to allow external power to the bus while the ships battery remains off line. The power source should be a battery/batteries that match ships power (12 volt or 24 volt) and an inline fuse or breaker to protect the wiring. A battery is preferred, as an AC power source will be 'noisey'.

Web
 

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Just a note for anyone using a plug that CAN BE connected in reverse polarity (even the remotest possibility). Connect your external power connector to the aircraft power system through a reverse current relay. This is simply a relay that is activated by power supplied by the external supply and 'filtered' through a diode.

Polarity correct = current is able to flow through the diode and closes the reverse current relay, applying external power to the ships system.

Polarity reversed = current is blocked by the diode, the reverse current relay does not close, and the ship is protected.

If you chose to use a NATO DC plug like Ted shows in his pics, note that the little pin is internally connected to the positive large pin. That little pin can be used to run power through a diode to the reverse current relay for your protection circuit.

Don't need a reverse current relay? I'll be happy to print you some new wires when you need them. And help you buy new avionics, a battery, possibly an alternator, . . . .

Web
 
Thank you for the excellent follow up advice Web.

Zoom into the picture of my plug. For electrical novices, such as myself, you can see I labeled the plugs with a Sharpie. ����
 
Wireweinie,

Is there a recommended way to protect the a/c circuit when a lowly rampie connects that NATO plug hooked up to 24V to your 12V plane? Cause I dodged that bullet this past winter - don't know how everything in the panel wasn't fried. I'm wondering if the relay can be designed to turn on for 12V positive ONLY and prevent both reverse current as well as over-voltage.

BTW this is in my '55 180 so not experimental.


wireweinie said:
Just a note for anyone using a plug that CAN BE connected in reverse polarity (even the remotest possibility). Connect your external power connector to the aircraft power system through a reverse current relay. This is simply a relay that is activated by power supplied by the external supply and 'filtered' through a diode.

Polarity correct = current is able to flow through the diode and closes the reverse current relay, applying external power to the ships system.

Polarity reversed = current is blocked by the diode, the reverse current relay does not close, and the ship is protected.

If you chose to use a NATO DC plug like Ted shows in his pics, note that the little pin is internally connected to the positive large pin. That little pin can be used to run power through a diode to the reverse current relay for your protection circuit.

Don't need a reverse current relay? I'll be happy to print you some new wires when you need them. And help you buy new avionics, a battery, possibly an alternator, . . . .

Web
Click to expand...
 
I've been trying to think of a simple system to make this happen. I think the safest way to monitor for incorrect external voltage would be to place a toggle switch in series with the reverse current diode. Then connect a voltmeter to the external power plug. Line guy plugs into your aircraft, you look at the voltmeter, and if you like what you see, flip on the toggle and the aircraft is connected to external power.
As for an 'automatic' system, I think installing a crowbar circuit on the reverse current relay should work. Wire up the reverse current relay with the diode in series with the relay coil. Install a circuit breaker in series with the diode. Now install a crowbar, over voltage module in parallel with the relay coil (positive wire from the OV module to the positive terminal on the coil and the negative wire from the OV module to the negative terminal on the relay coil). During normal operation the OV module remains open and does not effect the circuit. If external power is applied that is above the trip point voltage of the OV module, the module closes and becomes a short circuit, which will cause the circuit breaker to trip, which in turn prevents the reverse current relay from closing.
B&C makes a crowbar over voltage module for the SD-8 alternator. Part number 504-1 gets the whole kit, but I'm sure that if you called them you could get the module alone. This module is set at 16 volts for a trip point, so anything above 16 volts will cause it to short circuit.

Web
 
Thank you Web. Awesome info. I know it takes a lot of time to research and post and I GREATLY appreciate your input!!

On another note I am well into my annual condition inspection. This year I had a leaking exhaust valve. Staking it helped and a borescope inspection indicated crud on the valve seat. We were able to lap it in situ (in place) which cleaned up the seat and restored the compression. I then went out and got my own borescope so I could inspect all valves and cylinders. I got the Vividia 980 model. In the process of looking at the internet I found this by Mike Busch via AOPA and thought it had some really interesting stuff that I was very surprised by.........

One pervasive old wives’ tale has it that compression readings in the high 70s are excellent, in the low 70s are good, in the high 60s are marginal, in the low 60s are poor, and anything below 60/80 is unairworthy. Another widely accepted old wives’ tale is that an engine with compressions in the low 60s is a “tired engine” that will not put out full rated horsepower. Both are dead wrong.
More than three decades ago, Continental Motors issued a service bulletin (M84-15) debunking the first of these superstitions by establishing a new go/no-go criterion for compression tests: the master orifice tool. Mechanics who followed this guidance were astonished to find that compression readings in the low- to mid-40s were deemed acceptable by Continental.
This 1984 guidance was based on a series of engineering studies performed using an IO-550 engine mounted in the dynamometer test cell at the Continental factory in Mobile, Alabama. Those studies revealed that when the compression ring gaps on the IO-550’s pistons were filed oversize intentionally to reduce the compression of all six cylinders to 40/80, there was no measurable loss of horsepower output (although there was an increase in oil consumption). This effectively debunked the “tired engine” old wives’ tale.
Enter the borescope
Nineteen years later, Continental threw mechanics another curveball by issuing Service Bulletin SB03-3 (which superseded M84-15), directing that a borescope inspection of each cylinder be performed at each annual and 100-hour inspection, and any other time that a compression test is done. It further made it clear that the borescope, not the compression tester, was to be the gold standard for assessing the airworthiness of a cylinder. It directed that if a cylinder flunks a compression test but the borescope reveals no obvious cause for the low compression, then the engine is to be flown for at least 45 minutes and the compression test be redone. Only if a cylinder flunks its compression test twice in a row (with at least 45 minutes of flying in between) is it deemed unairworthy.
Continental’s SB03-3 was pretty shocking to mechanics when it was first published in March 2003. In those days, few GA maintenance shops owned a borescope (unless they did a lot of turbine work), and there was no training available to mechanics on how to use one to inspect a piston aircraft engine cylinder. Most A&P schools still don’t teach anything about how to use borescopes in piston engine maintenance.
The service bulletin recommended using a low-cost rigid optical borescope—the Lenox Autoscope, which was so named because it was designed for automotive use, and at more than $2,000 was one-tenth the cost of the fiber-optic borescopes being used for turbine engine hot-section inspections. Still, lots of mechanics and small GA maintenance shops were not amused by being told that they had to shell out two large to buy one of these instruments. Fourteen years later, some A&Ps still don’t own a borescope.I was an early adopter of borescopy. Having gone through the painful experience of pulling cylinders because of low compression readings, only to find nothing physically wrong with them, I was anxious to adopt this more enlightened way of evaluating cylinder condition. I borrowed a Lenox Autoscope from a shop on my field and began inspecting the 12 cylinders on my Cessna 310. It was an eye-opening experience, almost as if I could climb inside each combustion chamber—or at least stuff one eyeball inside. Over the years, the compression test has proved untrustworthy and prone to false positives, resulting in tens of thousands of cylinders being removed unnecessarily (including a few of mine). That’s why the SB03-3 guidance calls for any disqualifying compression test that is not corroborated by borescope evidence be retested after flying for at least 45 minutes. That’s excellent advice. I’ve seen many cases where a cylinder that flunked the first compression test easily passed the second one. In one notable case involving a Cirrus SR22, a cylinder that tested at 38/80 (and that the shop doing the annual wanted to yank) wound up measuring 72/80 on the retest after a one-hour flight.
SB03-3 did not go so far as to recommend that borescope inspections should replace the venerable compression test. Continental couldn’t do that, because the requirement to perform a compression test is written into the FARs (Part 43, Appendix D). But SB03-3 did all it could to convey that Continental is no big fan of the compression test for determining cylinder airworthiness. (A senior Continental executive once confessed to me that if they could’ve dropped the compression test altogether, they would have.)


Bottom line. Inside of the cyls and valves look good. Not hardly any carbon build up (probably due to running lean of peak) and no "over temp" indicators as well. Crosshatch looks good. So.....as soon as I replace the engine mounts I think we can call the engine healthy and get this thing back on floats and hopefully back to Alaska for another summer.

Hope this helps

Bill

 
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We had a friend in our group who had a rather ugly old A65 Champ. It didn't have an impulse and was a bear to get started. I propped it a lot. Most times I could get two revolutions with one swing. We took the cylinders off one winter and our machinist friend rebuilt them and added an impulse. Next time I started it it had a nice snap when flipping it and started right up. Later that year I asked Ken the Champ owner how he liked all that power. He said except for starting better nothing changed, static and take off RPM were the same as was climb out.

Glenn
 
A leaky exhaust valve will be like 2 tears in a bucket compared to all the volume of the cylinder compressing at 2600 rpm divided by 6. It doesn't surprise me that it makes no difference in rated horsepower.

I recently topped a cylinder in my O-470 that had compressions in the 30's and we decided to run it for quite a while after borescoping it. I know it was only 1 out of 6 cylinders, but I couldn't tell a difference in power when I got it back on line. Still made redline rpm and flew the same. It did give us the opportunity to inspect on other stuff inside like the cam and lifters with a jug out though. The cylinders looked good, but found corrosion and pitting in the lifters which we could not see from the borescope. Glad I caught that and replaced them at the same time as topping the jug. My engine guy squeezed me and I'm grateful - was only down a week.
 
Folks

Thank you all for your input.

I have a couple of shout outs that I would like to share.

AVEO LED LIGHTS
My Aveo wingtip strobe/position lights went out. I replaced them with a new Aveo Ultra Daylight set. The mounting screw is a 5m screw verses a 10-32. That is not really normal for US aviation. I sent a rather terse and not happy email to Damien at Aveo. His response was very nice. I am VERY impressed by the customer service at Aveo. They will make some changes and most important I honestly feel like they care about the product and the customer. I wish every company was this good. Top notch service at Aveo. I highly recommend them and their products.

NFLIGHTCAM.COM
If you need accessories for your GoPro to use it for aircraft video (cords to hook it into your audio, filters to get rid of prop effects, etc) these guys are awesome. Patrick and Courtney are Alaska pilots and campers. They love backcountry flying. Great products and OUTSTANDING customer service.


IMG_7736.jpeg
I spent a big part of the winter building the "pilot Lounge" in my hangar. If you guys are ever up the Sandpoint Idaho way you have a place to stay.


IMG_7750.jpeg
Love the hoist. It went back on floats pretty easy this week. It took about 4 minutes to get all 4 main bolts in. Sometimes it can take longer getting things to fit. This year the stars were lined up and it all came together slick as you please.


IMG_7751.jpeg
Annual Condition Inspection complete. Ready for another summer of adventure.


IMG_7764.jpeg
Lord willing I will be heading North again in a few days. This will be my seventh summer to Alaska. The old girl has been used, and abused. Worked hard for 1200 hours now and she still cleans up pretty good. I have been Blessed indeed. See you at the Trade show, then hopefully at New Holstein/Oshkosh this year, and finally Greenville in September.


Bill
 

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Bill stop by ft St. John on the way .place to stay look at lots of cubs here . We are planning to go to airman’s show next Wednesday.2 180 and 1 185. Let me know
 
Folks

I know in the middle of the build you can get frustrated and wonder why in the heck you ever thought you wanted to build an airplane. You want to just put a match to the whole thing. Don't give up. You will make it to the end and after all the angst it will take you on amazing adventures and to spectacular places. A few pictures to encourage you to hang in there.


IMG_7958.jpg
My friend Eric Holstrom flew his Cub up and is staying in the Forest Service Cabins. That is really fun. Mark Fiedler, and Bob Breeden are planning to join us as well.



IMG_7918.jpeg
Baranof Cabin with some snow still on the ground



IMG_7808.jpegHassleborg Lake. It can be a little cool in early May but the snow capped mountains are just magnificent.




IMG_7797.jpegHumpback Lake in Misty Fiords. Saw an avalanche on that mountain across the lake.


Keep the faith. It will be worth all the effort.

Bill
 

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Beautiful hangar, Bill!!

Bill Rusk said:
Folks

Thank you all for your input.

I have a couple of shout outs that I would like to share.

AVEO LED LIGHTS
My Aveo wingtip strobe/position lights went out. I replaced them with a new Aveo Ultra Daylight set. The mounting screw is a 5m screw verses a 10-32. That is not really normal for US aviation. I sent a rather terse and not happy email to Damien at Aveo. His response was very nice. I am VERY impressed by the customer service at Aveo. They will make some changes and most important I honestly feel like they care about the product and the customer. I wish every company was this good. Top notch service at Aveo. I highly recommend them and their products.

NFLIGHTCAM.COM
If you need accessories for your GoPro to use it for aircraft video (cords to hook it into your audio, filters to get rid of prop effects, etc) these guys are awesome. Patrick and Courtney are Alaska pilots and campers. They love backcountry flying. Great products and OUTSTANDING customer service.


View attachment 61002
I spent a big part of the winter building the "pilot Lounge" in my hangar. If you guys are ever up the Sandpoint Idaho way you have a place to stay.
Click to expand...
 
Ah.. these are the little half moon braces I was trying to see if other Javron guys/gals had in their kits for the firewall in this post

I don't seem to have them, what are they made from, same firewall material? I don't see what they are fabricated from called out in the drawings.

Bill Rusk said:
Folks



IMG_06581.jpg

These are some of the steel parts that are part of the cowl brace rod attach fittings


This is the lower cowl brace rod attach fitting on the lower part of the firewall.

IMG_06601.jpg

This is the reinforcing brace on the backside of the firewall. There are 4 of these. One for each brace on each of the 4 corners. Note - one rivet not yet squeezed, and also these are normally held on with #10 Truss head screws not AN3's but that is what I was using to fit things together in this phase.

Bill
Click to expand...
 
Scott, I believe that is the early Javron/Backcountry Cub kit that Bill built. Yours has a stainless steel firewall. The L brackets on the front of the firewall look the same as the ones in the picture but there is a longer l-bracket on the inside that picks up the top bolt on the outside bracket and fits against the inside of the boot cowl with 3 #4 rivets that holds it in. The brackets are gold anodized or powder coated black in your kit. I have seen them both ways.
 
Ah yes, I have both the inside (the larger 12840 part number) and outside (#12379 and 12379-2) anodized brackets, just not the doubler. You're saying they eliminated the doubler on the later kits?
Thanks for response.
pittsdriver said:
Scott, I believe that is the early Javron/Backcountry Cub kit that Bill built. Yours has a stainless steel firewall. The L brackets on the front of the firewall look the same as the ones in the picture but there is a longer l-bracket on the inside that picks up the top bolt on the outside bracket and fits against the inside of the boot cowl with 3 #4 rivets that holds it in. The brackets are gold anodized or powder coated black in your kit. I have seen them both ways.
Click to expand...
 
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