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Thread: Building a Javron Cub

  1. #1401
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    These are my Randy Appling carbon fiber wing tank covers. Unfortunately the fabric pulled the outside tank bay rib a little and I had no edge distance for the middle holes on that left side above. So I made a little trim strip from .016 and used that to sandwich the edge of the tank cover. Once everything is painted white I don't think it will have an adverse appearance.



    Perhaps you can see it better here.



    Another hint/tip. It does not matter exactly where the cowl brace rod attaches but it needs to be 90 degrees to the motor mount tube. If it is not 90 it will walk until it is. In the process your cowl will try to move and it will be all out of kilter. It does not matter where it attaches to the cowl brace C channel, as long as it does not interfere with anything, but be sure it is 90 degrees to the motor mount tube.


    Hope this helps


    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  2. #1402
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Bill,
    Two thoughts.

    Place a strip of anti chafe materiel between the tank cover extension and the fabric. There will be a lot of flexing of the fabric on the top of the wing.

    That clamp on the cowl brace can be tight up against the cluster at the upper end of the mount tube which will eliminate any possibility of sliding.
    N1PA

  3. #1403

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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Bill,
    Two thoughts.

    Place a strip of anti chafe materiel between the tank cover extension and the fabric. There will be a lot of flexing of the fabric on the top of the wing.

    That clamp on the cowl brace can be tight up against the cluster at the upper end of the mount tube which will eliminate any possibility of sliding.
    Wouldnt you want to keep the support rod as far away from the intake pipe as possible? Your cover deal looks fine but maybe randy would make you a cover thats a little wider, youve came to far with perfection, either way it dosent matter, maybe he should be making these covers a little extra wide and having the need to be trimmed? Are his covers all one size? Is trimming carbon fiber a easy task, just wondering, ive never done it. In my post 1393 you will note the few times ive been there i have always struggled with curved ribs after covering, this is more just a heads up to others to take note than anything.With a regular rib there isnt much room for fastners by not ending up straight.
    Last edited by tempdoug; 04-09-2015 at 08:23 AM.

  4. #1404
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tempdoug View Post
    Wouldnt you want to keep the support rod as far away from the intake pipe as possible?
    Yes, but as Bill noted "It does not matter where it attaches to the cowl brace C channel, as long as it does not interfere with anything," Just move the channel attachment a little further aft.
    N1PA

  5. #1405
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    tempdoug

    Thanks for your thoughts. Unfortunately, it is not easy to make a new CF tank cover. You have to make a mold first and that can take many many hours (weeks even, for someone who is just doing it part time). His cover was/is fine. The problem was me. I will post a picture when the paint dries and I think you will see that the solution will work well. I posted that as a hint to others, that if they end up in a similar situation, there is a relatively easy solution. I could have discarded the covers and made new ones from aluminum but that would have added weight and time. Building an airplane is just a series of problems to be solved. Problem - tank cover does not fit right. Solution - lots of different possible solutions. I chose this one. That is what makes this whole thing so interesting - seeing how others solve their building problems. Guys with tons of experience, tools, and knowledge might choose a different solution. A guy with lots of experience working with CF might have made new covers, or reworked these. I don't have those skills at this point (I might in the future) and so for me that particular solution is lower on the list of options.
    And this paragraph is not really directed at you but to all potential builders, and readers of this thread, in general. There will be lots of "problems" as you build. You then mentally list all the possible "solutions" and then choose the one that fits best for you based on your pocketbook, skills, goals, etc. I have tried in this thread not to tell you how to do something (although I'm sure I have) but rather how "I" did it. If that works for someone, and helps them save time, do a better job, save money, etc. Great, then I have accomplished my objective. And I love all the inputs from others, as I, and everyone else learns other ideas and other thought/problem solving skills. If someone chooses a different solution, that is great too. One of the things I really enjoy about homebuilt airplanes is seeing the differences and creativity of the builder. What was their objective? How did they meet that? There are some absolutely AMAZING builders out there. I'm really not one of those guys, I just chose to write it all in a blog.
    I sincerely appreciate yours and everyones posts. By your questions, others like Pete, Mike, Steve, Crash, etal post and we all learn. Thank You. Back to the hangar......(Thank the Lord it is still standing - dodged all the tornados a couple of days ago)

    As always - Hope this helps....

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  6. #1406

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    Bill, gas tank covers and wing root fairings to rib attach, i never learn, did it 3 times in a row. If my next wing ever does come again, there will be a univair rib there, just a nice big flange, unless i see a better idea? Like you say just problems to solve. I dont have the skill but am anxious to see what your solution is. And always remember this how peolple learn, i watch the neighbor skinning coyotes, a routine i bet no ones ever seen but the end product is unreal nice.
    Last edited by tempdoug; 04-11-2015 at 08:26 AM.

  7. #1407
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Just something for all to keep in mind. Fabric is shrunk taught to form a fairly stable surface all over a Cub airframe. In order for it to be taught, it needs to be pulling against something. This something needs to be stronger than the pull of the fabric. Consideration should be given to the structure of that something knowing that the fabric is going to try to overcome the strength of that something. A stock curved wing bow is shaped in a manner which opposes the pulling of the fabric yet has been known to damage structure at it's ends. A squared off wing tip or as in Bill's case the outboard rib of the gas tank bay will need considerable reinforcement to prevent bowing in the direction of the fabric. Sometimes just a wider flange will be enough. Other times diagonal braces may be needed, or both. Only experience will really tell you what is enough. You can test before covering by pushing against the part in question to see where and how much deformation takes place. Then reinforce accordingly.

    Fabric has been known to destroy wing tip ribs, deform fuselage longerons, warp trailing edges (WW1 Spad) etc. Longerons are sometimes bowed out slightly, allowing the fabric to pull them back in line straight. Shrinking fabric is powerful and destructive stuff. Bill's rib seems to have just a small distortion, yet enough to change screw edge distance.
    N1PA

  8. #1408

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    Bill can you also add the weight of those strips to my guess at at the ew of your plane or are we locked in on the chart?lol

  9. #1409
    mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    ..
    1 Unfortunately the fabric pulled the outside tank bay rib a little and I had no edge distance for the middle holes on that left side above.


    2 it does not matter exactly where the cowl brace rod attaches but it needs to be 90 degrees to the motor mount tube. If it is not 90 it will walk until it is.

    not true, use the proper clamps, not those rubber covered adels....

    Bill
    1 Use safety wire before shrinking, from tank rib holes to spar/compression strut to prevent that

    2 not true, use the proper clamps, not those rubber covered adels....

  10. #1410
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Pete - Thank you, good input

    Cub12 - sorry no changes (only cause I'm too lazy to update the chart) haha

    Mike MCS repair - "2 not true, use the proper clamps, not those rubber covered adels" .... thanks, but what are the "proper" clamps?



    The wing tank lid with the extra "oops" strip after paint. The strip added .9 oz with paint.



    Need to paint the front edge of the tank cover to match stripe.



    Cal helping install the tanks. I had to reposition the electronic tank probes from the side of the tank to the front. I will post more on that later.



    The flap gap fairing/seal comes in 2 four foot long pieces. Jay was talking about doing them as one piece but I'm not so sure that is a great idea. Yes, it would look nice without the seam, but that would be a hard piece to handle without damaging it. It is soft aluminum due to the sharp bends, and it would be really easy to buckle it while sanding, drilling, trimming, painting etc. So....I'm OK with a two piece seal personally. But here is just one idea to make it look nicer. Mark epoxied a small piece of aluminum into the joint so that the ends would stay lined up at the seam.



    Mark mixing the epoxy. His job this Saturday was putting the finished gap seals on.



    The end result.



    One of the things I found to be REALLY annoying and time consuming on the last build was removing the instrument panel. In order to do so all the push/pull cables had to be disconnected, zip ties cut off, threaded back through the firewall, more zip ties cut, then each had to be removed from the panel, then the panel could come out. This time I am putting the cables in a separate sub panel so the instrument panel can be removed without disconnecting all the cables.



    The sub panel will screw in to the main instrument panel like this.



    Something along the lines of this. There are lots of other ways to skin this cat but a sub panel will be super helpful for this part.
    Just something to think about.


    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  11. #1411
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Fuel Probes


    Here is a link to my inputs on installing electronic fuel gauges, earlier in this thread (tome)

    http://www.supercub.org/forum/showth...l=1#post597941



    My original plan was to have the probe go in this extra bung (the left hole, welded in by Javron for that purpose) and then the probe would make a 90 degree bend and go down and aft. Unfortunately this plan had some serious issues. The probes I got are not made to be bent. You must get the bendable probes, then they can only be bent a certain way and radius. Then that bend has to fit through the bung (think radius again) then you have to use a double compression fitting on the install because you can not rotate the probe after it is in the tank. It just got too complicated.



    So I had another bung welded on the front of the tank. Now the probe angles down and aft in a straight line. Easier to install and less likely to mess up the probe while bending it. I think this will work better. In this location it does not interfere with the aileron cable or tank lid. To get the whole story on this, and the logic behind installing electronic fuel gauges, go to the link above.


    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  12. #1412
    Mauleguy's Avatar
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    Bill, I have a question, I am installing the skylight and windscreeen right now and have looked at a lot of pictures but can not determine the proper way. It looks to me that the windscreen must overlap the skylight and the same aluminum strip covers both. The screws actually go through both the windscreen and the skylight. The problem I have with this is, it leaves a step because of the thickness of the skylight you end up with a gap between the aluminum strip and the skylight on the backside facing aft. Am I missing something or is this just the way it is.

    Thank you

    Greg

  13. #1413
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Greg

    yes the windscreen goes over the skylight and it does create a "step". When you break the aft edge of the trim piece, instead of the usual 1/8 to 3/16 break it will be closer to 3/8 or even 1/2"

    hope this helps

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  14. #1414
    Mauleguy's Avatar
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    Bill, It will probably leave the wing fairing with a little gap over the skylight in the upper corner on each side this way. I figured that is what it was but I also thought maybe there was a better way.

    Thank you

    Greg

  15. #1415

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    Mauleguy, look at the photos in post #1392. One shot shows the wing root fairing where Bill has put a slight break along the edge to close up the gap you are talking about

  16. #1416
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    Building a Javron Cub

    Bill, I think the "proper clamps" Mike mentioned are shown as 80002-27 "CLAMP - Cowl support tube" in the PA-18 parts catalog. Univair has them. I tried using adel clamps, with and without the rubber sleeve, but was unsuccessful in keeping them where I wanted them. The Univair part stays put.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  17. #1417
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    fancypants - Thank you. Learned something.



    Fooling with the fuel sight gauges today. The first thing you will note is they are NOT the same size as the fuel tank bungs. The fuel tank bungs are about 5 3/8" apart (center of hole to center of hole) the sight gauge is about 7 1/4 hole to hole. The fuel lines will not be straight out to the sight gauges. There will be a little bend in there. Its OK.



    Next thing you will note is they won't fit straight up and down, they have to be slanted. Its OK. But when you make your slant be sure to watch out for this guy. You will actually straddle this "C" channel brace.



    It will look like this from the backside.



    I put my lower hole in line with the lower bung and about 1" up from the bottom of the door window (right side).



    On the left side you will measure from the bottom of the window channel. That way they are both at the same height.



    I used about 3 1/2" of slant. That puts the center of the top hole about 3/4" down from the skylight.



    My friend Bernie has built 4 airplanes and is an expert on electrical stuff (I'm not). I was telling him about my idea to put the PTT switch in the throttle....he says....."I think I can help you with that". Next day....bam....I have the PTT switch in the throttle. Has a nice feel to it too. How cool is that? I didn't get a part # from him but I'll see if I can in case someone else might like to do this.



    Another shot of the PTT switch in the throttle ball.


    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  18. #1418
    DW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fancypants View Post
    Bill, I think the "proper clamps" Mike mentioned are shown as 80002-27 "CLAMP - Cowl support tube" in the PA-18 parts catalog. Univair has them. I tried using adel clamps, with and without the rubber sleeve, but was unsuccessful in keeping them where I wanted them. The Univair part stays put.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    i tried using Adel but they slip and a little oil on them and the rubber falls apart so I made some out of stainless but the steel one will be even stronger.

  19. #1419
    DW's Avatar
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    Bill you can now use the old probe hole for your belly fuel tank .
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 04-14-2015 at 10:46 PM.

  20. #1420
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Excellent idea. I love this place. I did not think of that (not thinking of the belly pod yet, still jet trying to get the basic Cub done) but what a great idea.

    Thanks DW

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  21. #1421

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    Lookin Good Bill!!

  22. #1422
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    So...... my good friend Cal.........



    .....and Frank came by to check up on things, and while here they did a little carpentry.



    They built this little thing.... and.....



    This little thing in the front.....and.....



    Drop a piece of plywood on them and now I have a way to lay on my back and get up and behind the panel for the wiring. We put a couple of long bolts (you can see one sticking up for reference) in there with no nuts just to keep the plywood from sliding. Goes in and out in a few seconds and is sure handy when working in the cockpit. Thanks to Cal and Frank.



    Today I discovered that all those cool GPS antennas are not designed to be externally mounted. Crud. I was planning to mount them on the wing root fairing. I was told that would not be a good idea. The external ones are mega expensive. (I have three GPS antennas = 1 for the GRT, 1 for the 796, and 1 for the XM system)
    Here we go.....PROBLEM - where to mount GPS antennas. Many possible solutions. I chose this one......



    I made a little tray. Its about 3 1/2 X 7 1/2. out of .020



    It fits between the fuselage and the windscreen, using the screws already there.



    Looks like this from the inside. I think it will work OK. I don't think it will be in my vision and they should get good reception.



    For your interior cover panels there is just enough room behind the down tube, in the attached "C" channel to get a Riv-Nut. Although I am not a huge fan of Riv-Nuts, they are a lot better than a sheet metal screw (IMHO).



    If you look at the left door post you can see at the edge of the trim piece, the welds and seam show. I did not like this. Just seemed like it could be better. So I redid it.......



    I made the trim piece just a little wider so that it covered the welded seam.


    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 04-14-2015 at 09:55 PM.
    Very Blessed.

  23. #1423
    mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    why not wire the panel before you install it???

  24. #1424
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Haha, thanks Mike. I will, but it always seems you need to get up under there for something. Figured I would just get ready in advance.

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  25. #1425
    mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    Haha, thanks Mike. I will, but it always seems you need to get up under there for something. Figured I would just get ready in advance.

    Bill
    i'm fatter and lazier now... might just fall asleep if i crawl under there.... plan ahead...

  26. #1426
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Bill,
    I wired and completed the panel installation before I installed the firewall and wraparound for the final time. Didn't have to go under the panel once.

    Also, My GPS 695 works in the hangar without the external antenna so I didn't bother to install one. Are you sure that you need all of those antennas?
    N1PA

  27. #1427
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    When I had the 396 in an airgizmo mount it had an external antenna. I swapped to a aera 500 and it didn't need one

  28. #1428
    mvivion's Avatar
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    Bill,

    Why not mount at least the XM antenna, and maybe one GPS antenna on top of the glare shield? Simple, less wiring (hole through glareshield for cables) and works great. All that extra wiring you're adding will really screw your weight goals....

    MTV

  29. #1429
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Save yourself anew extra paint line on your tank cover.
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    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  30. #1430
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Save yourself anew extra paint line on your tank cover.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  31. #1431
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Mike - you could certainly do so. Good thought.

    Steve - good idea, wish I'd have thought of that.


    Shopping List

    Several folks have asked for this, so here is my best shot. It is not complete and your preferences may vary, but perhaps this will help.

    McMaster- Carr

    #6208K142 - Clamp on Shaft Coupler - for electric trim
    #6409K18 - DC 12Volt electric motor - for electric trim
    #97022A440 - Shims for the torque tube
    #13985A24 - Tool Holder - this is the clip for the cowl door brace rod that holds it open, if using 3/8 aluminum tubing like fuel line
    #9307K13 - Grommets for the fuel sight gauges where they go through the wing root panel (use a 3/8 hole), (included with gauges at Javron)
    #3014T62 - Lift rings for float changes (each ring is rated for 1400 pounds)

    Cub Crafters

    Electric Trim Switches
    Window (door) latch that goes under wing and holds the window open (theirs seems to work the best) #SC23050-001
    Gap Seals for the tail

    Aircraft Spruce

    #11-09325 Kannad Integra 406 ELT (has built in GPS)
    #11-07994 Antenna for Kannad ELT above
    #11-07361 Aveo Posistrobe XP (strobe tail light)
    #11-07933 Aveoflash Ultra Wing Tip Strobe/Position lights
    #13-03500 Vista Vent - my favorite window vents, I got two
    #11-17995 TED Transponder Antenna
    #11-01596 18 Gauge Black Wire - I got 100'
    #11-01597 18 Gauge Red Wire - 100'
    #11-14518 18b Gauge White Wire -100'
    #6749 Fuel Shut Off Valve
    #08-01029 Thermo Guard Firewall Blanket
    #11-03162 Starter Solenoid
    #11-03161 Master Relay
    #10-01224 EI FT90 Fuel Flow Transducer
    AN823-6D 45 degree elbow that goes into gascolator (Vans Gascolator, it uses 1/4 NPT fittings) the fuel line to carb connects here
    AN913-6D 1/4 NPT plug for the other hole in the gascolator that you will not be using, thus we plug it
    #05-17700 Finger Strainer - need 4 - one for each fuel pick up in the tank
    AN840-6D This is the fitting that goes in the finger strainer so you can slide the fuel line on it - thus you need 4 of these
    AN840-4D This goes in the fuel sight gauge holes of the tank so you can connect a short fuel line to the sight gauges - need 4
    #05-01870 Curtis Drain Valve CCA1600 - has a 1/4 NPT for your tanks - need two - this will barely (but it will) fit between window when open
    AN394-41 clevis pins for flaps and aileron hinges, Javron will be including these in the future

    3/8 X .035 Aluminum Tubing for fuel lines - 36'

    Vans Aircraft

    #GAS5 gascolator
    #CAV110 drain valve for above gascolator
    CT-A-740 Red knob Push pull cable for the mixture
    CT-A-740 Black knob Push Pull Cable - need 2, one for carb heat, and one for cabin Heat
    CA Baggage Tie Down - I got these to attach a net, or ropes, to tie cargo down
    BAF-360 Engine Baffling Kit - this for the 0-360 (different # for other engines)
    ES-A-510-2K Ignition Switch. This is a key start switch, comes with two door locks, all keyed alike
    F-P5000 - Oil Quick Drain valve

    Wag Aero

    E481000 Fuel Caps - get a spare and paint it with the others - this is about the only place I could find these caps - you bend the tube forward
    C-160-100 Radio Antenna - This is a nice unit - RAMI

    B&C

    GB 24 Ground Bus
    FH-12 Fuse Holder
    Fuses
    Ground Strap
    Ring Terminals for Battery to Master relay and starter relays
    S891RB-10 Butt Splice Terminal (gonna need a bunch, like 100)

    Perihelion Designs

    #4 Wire for battery to Master, and from starter relay to Starter
    Associated lugs for above wire


    MISC

    Fabric for Seats - Active Foam Products
    Foam for Seat cushions - Hi-Tech foams
    Aluminum .016 for interior panels
    Prop Bolts - Saber Mfg
    Prop - Catto
    Under Seat Storage box - Carbon Concepts (Randy Appling up in Alaska
    Seat Belts - Aviation Safety Products Inc
    Radio
    Transponder
    GPS
    Co Ax Cable for ELT
    Co Ax Cable for Radio
    Co AX Cable for Transponder
    Master, Avionics, Lights, and other switches
    Window Channel - Javron or Stoddards carry it
    Covering Grommet Set - I recommend Pierce Aero for this
    Exhaust System - I used Professional Pilots Inc (Sutton System)
    Oil Cooler # 8000081NE - this is an experimental 10 row cooler. - From Pacific Oil Cooler
    2" Scat hose - I got 10 feet (it may come with your exhaust system)
    VG's - Micro Aerodynamics
    Engine - lots of options here
    Carb Air Box - Can get from Javron
    Cabin Heat Box - Jay is working on this so the cable operates properly instead of backwards like they all do. Hopefully he will have one soon
    Carb Air Filter Assembly
    Fuel Sight Gauges - Javron
    Brake lines
    Battery - I used the Earth X unit
    Tires
    Wing Pulley Covers - Nice aluminum ones from Aircraft Restoration Supplies in Belle Plaine, MN 800-325-5474
    #U12694-003 Univair throttle cable for 150 (plus) engines
    #U70371-000 Univair clamp for the cabin heat cable
    #U70371 -004 Univair clamp for the carb heat cable
    Univair 415-31130-10 Rubber moulding - used between wing root fairings and windshield. Comes in 10' length but you will use 2 about 24" pieces
    Plexiglass for windows

    Composite material for floor boards, cargo floor etc. Substitute for plywood. Lighter but expensive.
    AAR Precision Systems 727-539-8585 14201 Meyerlake Cir. Clearwater FL 33760

    ATR-FP-121F1
    this is 1/8th inch. I used it for the floor of the upper baggage and the back wall. It is very light but not strong enough for cargo floor or floorboards. At the time I got it, it was 284 dollars for a 4' X 8' sheet. I tried to use it for the side walls in the cargo area but it did not really work out.

    ATR-FP-251F1 - 1/4 inch stuff I used for cargo floors, seat backs etc. The "F1" in the name means it is one layer of glass.

    ATR-FP-251F2 - 1/4 inch again but two layers of glass. I used this for the front and rear floorboards.





    Folks - you don't have to get this stuff from the same place I did (except a few items are one vendor only - assuming you want that specific item)
    I know this list is not complete. Perhaps it will give you a place to start.

    Hope this helps

    Bill




    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 02-03-2017 at 06:56 PM.
    Very Blessed.

  32. #1432

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    IMO, I don't think you will be happy with Wagaero fuel caps. You cannot grasp them well enough to turn them. I know; I've tried.

    The vented ones Atlee sells are far superior because they have vertical tangs to twist. I'm not sure, but I think they can be used with the 180hp conversions.

  33. #1433
    soyAnarchisto's Avatar
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    Agree on the wag fuel caps. I hate mine and the vent is ver easy to bend. I thought cub crafters sold the nice atlee fuel caps. For sure those are the ones you want.
    Where the hell is soyAnarchisto? Spot:

    http://share.findmespot.com/shared/f...SWNtWd0Trffc0F

  34. #1434
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    This is the Cap that I used from A/S. Drilled a 1/4" hole in the middle and soldered in a 6" length of copper tubing. After placing the cap on the tank, using a tubing bender the tube was bent forward slightly nose down parallel to the top of the wing. It is to date durable and easy to use. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ickkey=1780302 $11.75.
    N1PA

  35. #1435
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Thanks for the inputs gents. Do we know if the Atlee caps will fit a Javron tank? I seem to remember from my first build that not all caps would fit all tanks.

    Pete - that is the same cap except that the copper tubing is already soldered in so all you have to do is use your tubing bender to bend it forward. Then I flare the end of the tube to get a little more pressure. Looks like this................


    I have used the caps with the upturned tabs and I do like them, if they fit that would be a great option.



    Cable sub-assembly for the instrument panel



    Picture of the clip, noted in the shopping list above from McMaster-Carr, that holds the cowl open.


    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Last edited by Bill Rusk; 04-17-2015 at 07:59 AM.
    Very Blessed.

  36. #1436
    Cub junkie's Avatar
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    Take a look at Stant 10640. Might be an alternative. Cheap at the auto parts store.

  37. #1437

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    Bill,

    You have such a flare with fittings.

    Kirby
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!

  38. #1438
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Bill, I like to have the end bent down a little bit just in case a little moisture is in the air while parked. It would tend to flow out rather than in.
    N1PA

  39. #1439
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    I like the way Luscombe did it 60 years ago. 3/4 tube gets ram air pressurized and it can rain all week and it will run out the 1/16" drain in the back. Did this on my J4 and works like a charm.



    Glenn

  40. #1440

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    Do you have enough room between the knobs for your fingers to grasp the knobs? It doesn't look like you have enough room to put your two fingers. Or do you just not care to be able to use two fingers and your thumb to push and pull them?

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