upper door bail
- Thread starter motohead
- Start date
stevensonjr
Registered User
Lafayette La
CubCrafters sells a latch that works well. Screws into the rear lower leading edge sheet metal. Origional equipment on the last SuperCubs and all Huskys. I've used them on 5 different planes, simple and easy to install. Don't know about a new wire bail.
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
You can fabricate a wire bail easily.
Stoddards has the "chicken latch" that is common on Husky's and SuperCubs. I like it.
Call them. (907) 272-2327 Stoddards Rocks! D
Stoddards has the "chicken latch" that is common on Husky's and SuperCubs. I like it.
Call them. (907) 272-2327 Stoddards Rocks! D
Amy
SPONSOR
WI/MN/SD
The wire contraption-thing that you rest the door in (latch goes inside the handle)? Hooks up to a little piece of hinge under the wing? STAY AWAY! We had one of those on one of the J3s in Hartford and the door falls down on takeoff, landing, stalls . . . sometimes even in cruise flight! The door always floats up out of that latch. We (Dakota Cub) have the cabinet catch type (spring inside) which is DC12847. That number should be the same for other suppliers that use the Piper number system (with the exception of the "DC," of course). Works much better 
behindpropellers
Registered User
NE Ohio
The wire contraption-thing that you rest the door in (latch goes inside the handle)? Hooks up to a little piece of hinge under the wing? STAY AWAY! We had one of those on one of the J3s in Hartford and the door falls down on takeoff, landing, stalls . . . sometimes even in cruise flight! The door always floats up out of that latch. We (Dakota Cub) have the cabinet catch type (spring inside) which is DC12847. That number should be the same for other suppliers that use the Piper number system (with the exception of the "DC," of course). Works much better
I need one of those....can you post a picture??
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
That is exactly what I have been looking for. I'll pick it up at Hamilton. My concern is the method of attachment to the wing. Sure, I could just use PK screws into the leading edge skin. Mine is a Back Country wing. They used 5052 aluminum and it is softer than 2024. I'm worried that the PKs will loosen, in this high vibration area, and I'll end up with a couple of ugly holes in the wing that are unusable. My thought is to attach a couple of plate nuts to a piece of 2024 and slide it down below the front of the fuel tank with glue on the plate to stick it on the inside of the fabric. Then using machine screws to hold the latch. Or, I could use riveted on tinnermans and PKs on the plate. What do you folks think of this idea? It will not be easy to work the installation of the part, as the tank is installed and there isn't much room between the spar and tank.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
You can put rivnuts in or use attach it to a plate and screw the plate into the rib.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
I suppose that I could put in rivnuts ahead of the spar. That location seems to be too far forward for good support, maybe not. There is no rib anywhere near where the door latch needs to go. Perhaps there is on a "real" Cub. I haven't looked at a real Cub in a long time, but I do seem to remember that there is a rib in that location.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
Pete, I try and put the latch close to where the leading edge bends 90 degrees to screw to the spar. Nice and stiff.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Steve, There doesn't seem to be very much room under the spar cap. I would be concerned about hitting the spar with a drill or screw. Or, are you suggesting placing it just forward of the spar enough to clear? That I could do with rivnuts.
Bill, Anywhere within a foot of the spar will meet this requirement. Did you have a rib in this location on yours?
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
thats where I put them, gotta be 1/2" there.... only .020" of your screw is holding anything, so it don't need to be long....
Darrel Starr
Registered User
Plymouth, MN
The Cubcrafters latch I bought about 10 yrs ago had a weak spring & wouldn't stay up. But Vera came came up with a stiffer spring which I have installed but have not tried.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
OK, this is what I did. I found the brass elbow latch at West Marine in Plymouth. I cut the hook about 1/8" deeper for total of about 1/4" to get a good grip on the window with the prop blasting on it. Then I used the wood screws that came with the latch to screw directly to the leading edge under the spar as Steve described above. It seems very solid. If it loosens up with use, then I'll replace the wood screws with rivnuts and machine screws.
N636P
PATRON
Decorah, IA, USA
This is what my latch looks like:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOCBDE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A1FWOG4NHCL26V
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOCBDE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A1FWOG4NHCL26V
