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Scott 3200 Taiwheel refurbishment

I wore the king pin bore out on mine, Knurled the kingpin and heated the head and pressed it back in. Lasted quite a while.
 
Pulled tailwheel and spring for OH. It's long overdue. Thanks for all the information! 20210125_114059.jpeg20210125_120249.jpeg20210125_131605.jpeg20210125_142223.jpeg20210125_163627.jpeg20210125_163646.jpeg

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I have never see a 5 spring pac. Head angle is off and will be worse with a load. New springs should fix both problems, (is that new 3 leaf in bottom pic?) will need a new clamp under spring. what is the width of the old springs you have I might need them for a project ?
DENNY
 
THat is a nice "Add a leaf" stack of springs thick\thin\thick.... ABI Did have a 3 leaf that was arched correctly I don't know if they still do.
 
DENNY said:
I have never see a 5 spring pac. Head angle is off and will be worse with a load. New springs should fix both problems, (is that new 3 leaf in bottom pic?) will need a new clamp under spring. what is the width of the old springs you have I might need them for a project ?
DENNY
Click to expand...

That clamp under the spring is $85 through univair. No joke, $85.
Scratch that, rechecked my serial number, $26. Phew.


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Last edited:
NoFlaps said:
I did read that in the instructions, AN42-7 eyebolt IIRC. NAPA is closed on Sunday. Rudder horn does show wear. Thanks!

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Click to expand...

Another suggestion.......

I use drilled bolts and castle nuts with cotter pins in almost every spot. I have had nylocks come loose and have almost lost most of my tailwheel/ spring. I also change out all the bolts annually as they will fatigue. Prior to regularly changing them out, I broke the main tail spring to fuselage bolt. I also carry spares of all these bolts in my tool bag.


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What is the best grease to use for the Scott/ABI tailwheel after rebuild or continuous maintenance?
 
Thanks Steve,
Here in the UK I can only seem to find "Mobil Mobilith SHC 100" !
I'm trying to find out if its the same spec. as you use. By the way, brilliant videos on the Scott/ABI tailwheels, thank you.
Ratc
 
Mobil's Product Data Sheets for the USA and UK appear to be duplicates for SHC 100. I suspect they are the same product.

Gary
 
The tailwheel's components should be hand lubed before assembly. I'd not depend on the grease fittings to initially distribute the lube. Cover every part then repeat at least at every oil change via the external zerk finings. Some bush pilots do it every day if landing in areas exposed to water or fine soils.

Gary
 
FWIW I never even bother with either of the grease fittings on my 180's tailwheel.
But I do disassemble, clean, & liberally grease the t/w assembly every year at the annual inspection.
Also clean & repack wheel bearings in the t/w just like I do the mains.
 
I've had very good results greasing tailwheels with Aeroshell 33MS (now Aeroshell 64) grease with moly. Seems to help when operating in dusty/sandy environments. Just my experience.
 
I've just finished refurbishment of my tailwheel, upgraded to the bent steering arm, all rubber grease seals and copper washers.
I noticed that whilst the "pawl" is holding the bottom copper washer in place it is 1mm high and the corners are getting rounded off. I hadn't ordered a replacement! Is this something I can do at the next overhaul or should it be done as a matter of urgency?
Finally, there was no mention of what to do with the fibre washer.......Should this be lightly greased or cleaned and left alone?
Thank you as always,
Ratc
 
The bottom thrust washer should be held in place by the pin item 26 in the top of the fork. You might have the pawl upside down if the top thrust washer is spinning around. It can bind up and lock up your tailwheel. I grease the fiber thrust washer.
 
I just had an issue with one of my tailwheels locking up and was working on it today. The pawl was riding on top of the thrust washer and locking up the tailwheel, at first I figured I had put it in upside down but it was in correctly. What had happened is the slot the pawl rides in had widened out in the center allowing the pawl to lift up and ride above the thrust washer. Used my Knipex pliers to close the slot back down in the center and all is well. This is on a old Garr Arrow fork that has unknown number of hours on it. Hopefully this will solve my problem. DENNY
 
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