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Thread: Scott 3200 Taiwheel refurbishment

  1. #81
    hotrod180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Sure, the head tension will help but if you had a good caster angle it would not shimmy. Post a picture of the head angle when loaded at the point that it shimmies.
    Here's a pic of the tailwheel angle, parked in the hangar.
    Same load as usual for day-to-day local ops, minus the pilot.
    Tailwheel head angle looks about level or maybe even leading a little (vs trailing).
    Camera (phone) is flat -- on the floor, atop a 4x4 block.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod180 View Post
    Here's a pic of the tailwheel angle, parked in the hangar.
    Same load as usual for day-to-day local ops, minus the pilot.
    Tailwheel head angle looks about level or maybe even leading a little (vs trailing).
    Camera (phone) is flat -- on the floor, atop a 4x4 block.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Pretty flat but not practiocal to change without replacing the stinger. If tightening the pivot works I would go for it. Easier to fix with spring arch on a Cub.
    Steve Pierce

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  3. #83
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    The mud flap and rubber spacers Bill made the last time he was here.
    Attachment 44351

    Attachment 44352

    Attachment 44353

    Attachment 44354
    Steve Pierce

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  4. #84
    Eddie Foy's Avatar
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    I replaced the spring on my 180 with the one that Airframes sells. It has a bit more arch. Baby Bushweel only shimmies if I have it really loaded aft and on pavement.

    https://www.airframesalaska.com/Cess...-0742152-2.htm
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  5. #85
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    That stinger is $2200.
    If replacing mine is the solution,
    I think I'll continue to mask the problem.

    I think it's just an adjustment thing though--
    so far no shimmies, after tightening the kingpin nut 2 flats worth.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
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  6. #86
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    Something else to consider. I used to work on an ag plane that needed a specific brand/model of tire on the tailwheel. The tire was one of the styles that had a flat face across the tread instead of the more typical rounded type. Any other tire and the tailwheel would shimmy badly no matter the load on it.

    Maybe this install would respond to another tire?

    Web
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  7. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    The shimmy is because of your head angle not the tightness of the nut. You are keeping it from shimmying by making it harder to swivel. On Cubs I set it up loose so it is easy to turn and break over. It is all by feel for me.
    That works great except for a cub type aircraft that has a 200+# tail weight, and then all bets are off. 3" extended gear and a short mount and 31" tires causes all kinds of things to break, like the pins on the thrust plate, the fork casting where the pin for the lock spring goes is broke, everything wants to come loose! My taylorcraft weighs 68# and I dont break anything, but tripple that and you will find all sorts of problems if you fly a lot and your tail is heavy. Tim

  8. #88
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I am not having those issues. My head would get loose on the spring but I solved that with a 2 bolt head. Rearched springs at the truck spring shop and shimmy went away even when loaded heavy on asphalt.
    Last edited by Steve Pierce; 10-24-2019 at 03:39 PM. Reason: Spelling
    Steve Pierce

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  9. #89

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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod180 View Post
    So you're both saying that the tension on that nut doesn't matter? I don't buy that.
    I have enough experience with 3200's to know that head angle is often the cause of shimmy,
    but also enough to believe that the tension on the kingpin nut can be & often is also a factor.
    BTW this is a 10" 3400-series t/w on a C180, & the t/w head angle is fine.
    I don't think I've ever seen a C180/185 stinger that put an 8" or 10" t/w at a shimmy-inducing trailing angle.
    then you have not spent enough time in Alaska, they get bent up there all the time...

  10. #90

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    I am not having those issues. My head would get loose on the spring but I solved that with a 2 bolt head. Reached springs at the truck spring shop and shimmy went away even when loaded heavy on asphalt.
    Owner bought a 2 bolt spring, I tried to get them to convert from Nyloc to castlated nuts, changed the angle, went from 3 springs to 5 and still will get a shimmy after about 10-30 hours out from the annual. Every year it is a thrust plate replacement due to broken pins, if I leave the king pin nut with any looseness, instant shimmy. I have had the kingpin caster angle anywhere from 0 degrees to 15 positive with leaf spring changes and it will still shimmy with weight on the tail. I am to the point that a really heavy tail will just do that.

    I have another customer with a tailwheel that is 240+ and the king pin came loose from the main casting, that was a NO GO and it needed a thrust plate. One of the thrust plane pins was missing, i think there was some owner maintenance going on with it, but I will have it fixed next weekend.

  11. #91
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    I wore the king pin bore out on mine, Knurled the kingpin and heated the head and pressed it back in. Lasted quite a while.
    Steve Pierce

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  12. #92
    mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    You can also get a pattern worn into tire that will make it shimmy.


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  13. #93
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    Pulled tailwheel and spring for OH. It's long overdue. Thanks for all the information! Click image for larger version. 

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    I have never see a 5 spring pac. Head angle is off and will be worse with a load. New springs should fix both problems, (is that new 3 leaf in bottom pic?) will need a new clamp under spring. what is the width of the old springs you have I might need them for a project ?
    DENNY

  15. #95
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    1 1/4" springs.

    Old equipment much heavier than new.

    The photo above with suboptimal castor angle was with 36 gal of fuel.

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  16. #96
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    THat is a nice "Add a leaf" stack of springs thick\thin\thick.... ABI Did have a 3 leaf that was arched correctly I don't know if they still do.

  17. #97
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    Scott 3200 Taiwheel refurbishment

    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    I have never see a 5 spring pac. Head angle is off and will be worse with a load. New springs should fix both problems, (is that new 3 leaf in bottom pic?) will need a new clamp under spring. what is the width of the old springs you have I might need them for a project ?
    DENNY
    That clamp under the spring is $85 through univair. No joke, $85.
    Scratch that, rechecked my serial number, $26. Phew.


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    Last edited by NoFlaps; 02-01-2021 at 10:31 PM.

  18. #98
    Southern Aero's Avatar
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    Re arch the springs.......................
    ......... It doesn't cost any more to go first class! You just can't stay as long.

  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Southern Aero View Post
    Re arch the springs.......................
    Old springs are 60 years old. They can go in the iron pile.


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  20. #100
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    Before and after ABI overhaul kit, new spring and some paint. 36 gal autogas.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  21. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoFlaps View Post
    Before and after ABI overhaul kit, new spring and some paint. 36 gal autogas.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks much improved.

    Suggestion. Put some eye bolts in the rudder horn and then hook the springs into the eye bolts. It will keep the springs from wearing the holes oblong in the aluminum horn.


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  22. #102
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    I did read that in the instructions, AN42-7 eyebolt IIRC. NAPA is closed on Sunday. Rudder horn does show wear. Thanks!

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  23. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoFlaps View Post
    I did read that in the instructions, AN42-7 eyebolt IIRC. NAPA is closed on Sunday. Rudder horn does show wear. Thanks!

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    Another suggestion.......

    I use drilled bolts and castle nuts with cotter pins in almost every spot. I have had nylocks come loose and have almost lost most of my tailwheel/ spring. I also change out all the bolts annually as they will fatigue. Prior to regularly changing them out, I broke the main tail spring to fuselage bolt. I also carry spares of all these bolts in my tool bag.


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  24. #104

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    What is the best grease to use for the Scott/ABI tailwheel after rebuild or continuous maintenance?

  25. #105
    BC12D-4-85's Avatar
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    Opinions vary but ABI uses Exxon-Mobile SCH-100 grease

    Gary

  26. #106

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    Thank you Gary

  27. #107
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    Yep, that is what Bushwheel uses as well.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  28. #108

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    Thanks Steve,
    Here in the UK I can only seem to find "Mobil Mobilith SHC 100" !
    I'm trying to find out if its the same spec. as you use. By the way, brilliant videos on the Scott/ABI tailwheels, thank you.
    Ratc

  29. #109
    BC12D-4-85's Avatar
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    Mobil's Product Data Sheets for the USA and UK appear to be duplicates for SHC 100. I suspect they are the same product.

    Gary

  30. #110

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    On order, much appreciated Gary, thank you.
    Ratc

  31. #111
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    The tailwheel's components should be hand lubed before assembly. I'd not depend on the grease fittings to initially distribute the lube. Cover every part then repeat at least at every oil change via the external zerk finings. Some bush pilots do it every day if landing in areas exposed to water or fine soils.

    Gary
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  32. #112
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    FWIW I never even bother with either of the grease fittings on my 180's tailwheel.
    But I do disassemble, clean, & liberally grease the t/w assembly every year at the annual inspection.
    Also clean & repack wheel bearings in the t/w just like I do the mains.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
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  33. #113

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    I've had very good results greasing tailwheels with Aeroshell 33MS (now Aeroshell 64) grease with moly. Seems to help when operating in dusty/sandy environments. Just my experience.

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