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Thread: Scott 3200 Taiwheel refurbishment

  1. #81
    hotrod180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Sure, the head tension will help but if you had a good caster angle it would not shimmy. Post a picture of the head angle when loaded at the point that it shimmies.
    Here's a pic of the tailwheel angle, parked in the hangar.
    Same load as usual for day-to-day local ops, minus the pilot.
    Tailwheel head angle looks about level or maybe even leading a little (vs trailing).
    Camera (phone) is flat -- on the floor, atop a 4x4 block.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!

  2. #82
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod180 View Post
    Here's a pic of the tailwheel angle, parked in the hangar.
    Same load as usual for day-to-day local ops, minus the pilot.
    Tailwheel head angle looks about level or maybe even leading a little (vs trailing).
    Camera (phone) is flat -- on the floor, atop a 4x4 block.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Pretty flat but not practiocal to change without replacing the stinger. If tightening the pivot works I would go for it. Easier to fix with spring arch on a Cub.
    Steve Pierce

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  3. #83
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    The mud flap and rubber spacers Bill made the last time he was here.
    Attachment 44351

    Attachment 44352

    Attachment 44353

    Attachment 44354
    Steve Pierce

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  4. #84
    Eddie Foy's Avatar
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    I replaced the spring on my 180 with the one that Airframes sells. It has a bit more arch. Baby Bushweel only shimmies if I have it really loaded aft and on pavement.

    https://www.airframesalaska.com/Cess...-0742152-2.htm
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  5. #85
    hotrod180's Avatar
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    That stinger is $2200.
    If replacing mine is the solution,
    I think I'll continue to mask the problem.

    I think it's just an adjustment thing though--
    so far no shimmies, after tightening the kingpin nut 2 flats worth.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!

  6. #86
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Something else to consider. I used to work on an ag plane that needed a specific brand/model of tire on the tailwheel. The tire was one of the styles that had a flat face across the tread instead of the more typical rounded type. Any other tire and the tailwheel would shimmy badly no matter the load on it.

    Maybe this install would respond to another tire?

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  7. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    The shimmy is because of your head angle not the tightness of the nut. You are keeping it from shimmying by making it harder to swivel. On Cubs I set it up loose so it is easy to turn and break over. It is all by feel for me.
    That works great except for a cub type aircraft that has a 200+# tail weight, and then all bets are off. 3" extended gear and a short mount and 31" tires causes all kinds of things to break, like the pins on the thrust plate, the fork casting where the pin for the lock spring goes is broke, everything wants to come loose! My taylorcraft weighs 68# and I dont break anything, but tripple that and you will find all sorts of problems if you fly a lot and your tail is heavy. Tim

  8. #88
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I am not having those issues. My head would get loose on the spring but I solved that with a 2 bolt head. Rearched springs at the truck spring shop and shimmy went away even when loaded heavy on asphalt.
    Last edited by Steve Pierce; 10-24-2019 at 03:39 PM. Reason: Spelling
    Steve Pierce

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  9. #89

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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod180 View Post
    So you're both saying that the tension on that nut doesn't matter? I don't buy that.
    I have enough experience with 3200's to know that head angle is often the cause of shimmy,
    but also enough to believe that the tension on the kingpin nut can be & often is also a factor.
    BTW this is a 10" 3400-series t/w on a C180, & the t/w head angle is fine.
    I don't think I've ever seen a C180/185 stinger that put an 8" or 10" t/w at a shimmy-inducing trailing angle.
    then you have not spent enough time in Alaska, they get bent up there all the time...

  10. #90

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    I am not having those issues. My head would get loose on the spring but I solved that with a 2 bolt head. Reached springs at the truck spring shop and shimmy went away even when loaded heavy on asphalt.
    Owner bought a 2 bolt spring, I tried to get them to convert from Nyloc to castlated nuts, changed the angle, went from 3 springs to 5 and still will get a shimmy after about 10-30 hours out from the annual. Every year it is a thrust plate replacement due to broken pins, if I leave the king pin nut with any looseness, instant shimmy. I have had the kingpin caster angle anywhere from 0 degrees to 15 positive with leaf spring changes and it will still shimmy with weight on the tail. I am to the point that a really heavy tail will just do that.

    I have another customer with a tailwheel that is 240+ and the king pin came loose from the main casting, that was a NO GO and it needed a thrust plate. One of the thrust plane pins was missing, i think there was some owner maintenance going on with it, but I will have it fixed next weekend.

  11. #91
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I wore the king pin bore out on mine, Knurled the kingpin and heated the head and pressed it back in. Lasted quite a while.
    Steve Pierce

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  12. #92
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    You can also get a pattern worn into tire that will make it shimmy.


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org

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