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Thread: Scott 3200 Bearings

  1. #41
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Stewart, That is a great article by Bill O'Brien and right on. I have that one saved from AMT magazine years ago. Bill was a great man and the whole reason I read that magazine for years. He did a lot for all of us that most will never know about.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  2. #42
    hottshot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Water marks. I would replace if on the wheel bearing race but the head doesn't turn fast. I am sure Scott would say replace the whole head assembly. $$$ Maybe Wup will chime in with some words of wisdom.
    Just for you guys... about 4 quick beads and the race almost falls out I will post picts shortly


    All I did was 4 beads and witha punch and a small hammer lightly tapped (see pushed hard) on the protruding weld from inside the bore and pushed the race out
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    Last edited by hottshot; 06-06-2011 at 11:13 AM. Reason: add info amd picts

  3. #43

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    Wup, My races looked just like this on my wheel halves. I figured it was from a period of inactivity from where the bearing sat on the race. I purchased my new ones from you with bearings. I pounded my old ones out the old fashioned way. I learned something new just now.

  4. #44
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Cool, I learned something today. I never would have considered getting a welder any where near the wheel assembly. I use a hydraulic press to remove and replace the races.
    N1PA

  5. #45
    flybynite's Avatar
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    There was a thread dedicated to Owner Produced Parts a few years back.

    Owner Produced Parts Thread

    I also uploaded a copy of the memo that was mentioned in an article posted in that thread.

    http://www.supercub.org/photopost/da...prod_parts.pdf



    Wayne

  6. #46
    SteveR's Avatar
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    Sorry to bring this back from the dead...I was searching google for these bearings and this thread popped up. The Lang 501A tailwheel uses the same bearings. I was able to remove the race pretty easily using a 3/4" socket on my 4-way tire tool and a hammer...it came out with a few taps.

    Oreilly's Auto Parts has these bearings, supposedly they are Timken but they couldn't confirm that they are made in the USA until they arrived. $33 for the bearing and race. Not bad if they are made in USA...if not, I'll get them somewhere else. The made in USA Timken bearings I have are probably 40 years old, they have very minor rust in a few spots, and that is due to neglect/not re-packing at least every couple of years. I see no reason to go to something possibly of lower quality, and I'd hate to no longer have the option to buy a US made bearing, so I'll stick with Timken.

  7. #47
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Be sure to check the dimensions. The bearings made overseas use the metric system vs inches. Very slight differences could make for a loose fit.
    N1PA

  8. #48
    SteveR's Avatar
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    For what it's worth, the bearing Oreilly's had were National brand, made in Japan.

    I found two new made in USA Timken bearings and two races on Ebay for $50 shipped, so I went with those.

  9. #49

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    21.303 became 21. 9 about 3 years ago, it defines what constitutes an aircraft part. 21.305 became 21.8, which states that if any part needs approval other than PMA etc, it can be approved "in any other manner approved by the FAA". AC21.29 tries to explain these two regs... it states that...
    ( Produced as standard parts that conform to established industry or U.S. specifications (refer to definition in subparagraph 3l, Standard Part).

    NOTE: Standard parts are not required to be produced under FAA approval; therefore, it is incumbent upon the installer (and the producer) to determine that the part conforms. The part must be identified as part of the approved type design or found to be acceptable for installation under part 43. Refer to the AC 20-62 for additional guidance on this matter
    this AC and a couple others (sorry, don't remember the numbers right now) give us quite a bit of latitude to use readily available standard parts, as long as they are pretty much the same as the OEM. even electrical,,, everything up to programmable devices is ok... you can go to Radio Shack and buy a 3055 transistor for your Cessna dimmer.... no problem. on the other hand... replacing an altimeter or airspeed, or other required instrument must be TSO, but that's a whole nother question isn't it. and yes I can quote regs
    Last edited by beezerboy; 08-31-2013 at 01:27 AM.
    Likes mike mcs repair liked this post

  10. #50
    jrussl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HandsSlowLow View Post
    The Scott 3200 Tail Wheel takes two (2) Timken A4050 tapered roller bearings and two (2) A4138 bearing races.
    Thanks!

  11. #51
    j3cubcapt's Avatar
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    Interesting info on this McFarlane site about this issue. A4050 vs the FAA/PMA A4050. Btw, I do have a certified aircraft.

    https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/pr...product/A4050/

  12. #52
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j3cubcapt View Post
    Interesting info on this McFarlane site about this issue. A4050 vs the FAA/PMA A4050. Btw, I do have a certified aircraft.

    https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/pr...product/A4050/
    I would call McFarland and ask for the regulation they mention.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
    Likes Gordon Misch liked this post

  13. #53
    j3cubcapt's Avatar
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    Scott 3200 Bearings

    I thought the post was interesting bc it mentions the Aviation Grade of the A4050 was the A4050-20629

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    I would call McFarland and ask for the regulation they mention.



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

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