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Winter Mods

.... very quickly. Consequently, at the next start, the piston skirts on the top (up via gravity) sides are the least lubricated, and provide friction and wear until engine starts and pumps oil.

even much later.... no oil 'pumps' to piston area... just slop and sling once thin ......
 
So those type are not good for a Super Cub cowling??

winterkit.jpg
 

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Back to the crank vent freezing problem, has anyone tried insulating the fitting between the case and where this whistle hole is cut. I have an issue where my C-85 crank seal starts to weap during winter operation. I tried the slit in the hose but i still got some weaping. I suspect it might be the 90 fitting right at the engine and am thinking of trying to insulating with some fire sleeve or something. Crank seal is dry all year otherwise so i suspect ice. Anyone else have this problem?
 
This works well when operation outside temps are < 15 degrees. No approval :wink:. Keeps your engine in the optimum operating temperature range.PB240021.JPG
 

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This works well when operation outside temps are < 15 degrees. No approval :wink:. Keeps your engine in the optimum operating temperature range.View attachment 4290

thats like was on one of the old polar bear cubs i helped redo,

except you hinge that flap right onto edge of boot cowl, and have it controlled from inside cabin by a double cable push/pull cable... retracted position is it laying back on boot cowl sides... and another hinged flap for bottom of boot/cowl....
 
That is a Cessna winter front kit. My experience with those is that they're pretty useless unless you are absolutely, positively going to be in COLD air ALL the time. And, they reduce cabin heat flow substantially as well. The only part of that kit that I'd install on a Cessna is the induction block off plate. Put some duct tape over the oil cooler, and go fly.

Arcticair showed a really good mod for Cubs. It really does help "organize" the flow of air through the cowl. That and moving the oil cooler from the front up to the rear baffle. Putting that oil cooler in the low pressure side of the cowl makes no sense at all when it comes to engine cooling.

MTV
 
Another thing to check is the jackscrew. If it has been maintained with grease for lubricant, you are all set up for it to bind up and maybe completely stop turning. The mixture of grease, sand/grit and subzero temperatures is bad. Before winter make sure it is fully cleaned (I use brake cleaner spray through the metal belly access) and then use a good silicone or graphite "greaseless" lubricant. You do want a trim to work in the winter don't you?

Sound advice!
 
Use to maintain a pipeline patrol plane. They used pipe insulation on the crankcase vent from the elbow all the way down with an opening for the whistle slot.
 
are there any good cowling covers that are not duct tape that will take off paint? how much can you safely cover?

I leave the duct tape at home these days, for the plane I use a tape you can get at any plumbing house that sells to professional pump setters, it's called "pipe wrap tape", and it's intended use is securing the pump electrical cable to the drop pipe. It leaves NO residue, is 2" wide, black, sticks great, and is cheap, 1/3 of my oil cooler has some on it right now. I'm experimental so don't care as to legality....?! It sticks good to fabric also.
 
I believe that Fairbanks Air Service at the old Phillips Field used to have an STC for a cowl flap for the Super Cub??? Anyone know if that's still out there?

MTV
 
Use to maintain a pipeline patrol plane. They used pipe insulation on the crankcase vent from the elbow all the way down with an opening for the whistle slot.

This is what Cessna supplied as part of the "winter kit" in addition to baffles as shown in post #62 above.
 
Back to the crank vent freezing problem, has anyone tried insulating the fitting between the case and where this whistle hole is cut. I have an issue where my C-85 crank seal starts to weap during winter operation. I tried the slit in the hose but i still got some weaping. I suspect it might be the 90 fitting right at the engine and am thinking of trying to insulating with some fire sleeve or something. Crank seal is dry all year otherwise so i suspect ice. Anyone else have this problem?

You can extend the breather fitting inside the engine case more. Braize on a 3" (I think) leg and it extends the fitting past where the crank is slinging all the oil into it. Will cut down oil loss alot if you haven't already done it.

Not a hack job. Its via service letter/instruction. I don't have the time to look it up or I would. If you can't find it call BJ Engines/Mad Mikes or probably any other alaska engine shop.

Start there, then pipe wrap the horizontal part of the tube. Should help.​
 
If you worm clamp the breather tube to the backside of the tailpipe the tailpipe heat will help to keep the breather from freezing.

Glenn
 
You can extend the breather fitting inside the engine case more. Braize on a 3" (I think) leg and it extends the fitting past where the crank is slinging all the oil into it. Will cut down oil loss alot if you haven't already done it.

Not a hack job. Its via service letter/instruction. I don't have the time to look it up or I would. If you can't find it call BJ Engines/Mad Mikes or probably any other alaska engine shop.

Start there, then pipe wrap the horizontal part of the tube. Should help.​

Interesting, this is something i will have to look at.

tempdoug, the fitting is pointing straight down.

cubdriver 2 that sounds like a good idea but not sure how close my vent comes to the exhaust. Have to check.

Seems to me that insulating the pipe is worth a shot and is an easy thing to try first.
 
Here is a PDF about the breather mod It's easy to to and actually works. I don't remember who the author is, but it is good info.

........Mike
 

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Here is a PDF about the breather mod It's easy to to and actually works. I don't remember who the author is, but it is good info.

........Mike

They are now saying to cap the end and drill a hole facing down, I'll look for the info.

Glenn
 
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