tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

Marty57 · Apr 22, 2011

"thousandths of an inch" on a Cub? Where's that on my wood yard stick? :wink:

I square up first end on belt sander than mark and cut with my hand held angle grinder then back to belt sander. Another way would be to make a split block of Oak with hole correct diameter and depth for bushing. To make the block, cut two pieces of oak about 1" square, 3/4" thick. Clamp real tight in a drill press vise and drill your hole with the center point at the split. Drill down the depth you want. Clamp the block together and sand the face so the depth is what you need for bushing length. To make the bushings first dress one end square than rough cut bushing material close to length needed. Insert into one half of block and clamp blocks together then carefully sand end of bushing on belt sander making sure you don't sand the wood block. You can get pretty accurate without sanding the block with practice.
Marty57

tempdoug · Apr 22, 2011

Mike, i think your on to something. Im going to try and drill the 3 size holes about a 1/2 inch apart into a 1/2 by 1 by 6 inch block of steel and tap in a small screw like an #40 in from the side. See if i can find some small thumb screws to hold the bushing from spinning. It shouldnt take to much. Marty your oak clamp might work just as good. Its going to have to be small, some cub bushings arent much more than 1/8 inch long. Mike, Is there flat cut tools that can go in the drill chuck then for cutting this small stuff on the end, flat? My most used prior method is a hacksaw, small vise grips and bench grinder and Spend half the time on my knees looking for the bushing. the ones ive looked at from the sources have a taper at the ends on them, like a tube cutter, just rather have flat.

mike mcs repair · Apr 22, 2011

tempdoug said:
Is there a simple tool or fixture short of a micro-turning lathe for making/cutting steel and aluminum to make bushings. I can cut the round stock with a hacksaw but it would be nice to have something to get the lengths down to the thousandths of an inch and have nice square ends when finished. Just dont make enough bushings to invest in a lathe. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch sizes od. ????? doug

have also used a hand drill, clamp bushing in chuck, and go over to belt sander with belt sander spinning and drill spinning, makes a good square end...

you can also use this method to make pointed ends like bullets and such

tempdoug · Apr 22, 2011

Is there spot facers, like for taking of rivet heads that work on steel? that could be put in a drill chuck?

Grant · Apr 22, 2011

have also used a hand drill, clamp bushing in chuck, and go over to belt sander with belt sander spinning and drill spinning, makes a good square end...

you can also use this method to make pointed ends like bullets and such

That how I sharpen tungsten. i've got a dozen or so if the sizes I use. Then I'll chuck one p in the makita and plug in the angle die grinder with a fine sandpaper disc then I go to town. It takes about 10 seconds for each one but when its done the cut on the tungsten is right on. the sharpening marks are going in the correct direction and you can make a fine point or a dull point.

mike mcs repair · Apr 22, 2011

tempdoug said:
Mike, i think your on to something. Im going to try and drill the 3 size holes about a 1/2 inch apart into a 1/2 by 1 by 6 inch block of steel and tap in a small screw like an #40 in from the side. See if i can find some small thumb screws to hold the bushing from spinning. It shouldnt take to much. Marty your oak clamp might work just as good. Its going to have to be small, some cub bushings arent much more than 1/8 inch long. Mike, Is there flat cut tools that can go in the drill chuck then for cutting this small stuff on the end, flat? My most used prior method is a hacksaw, small vise grips and bench grinder and Spend half the time on my knees looking for the bushing. the ones ive looked at from the sources have a taper at the ends on them, like a tube cutter, just rather have flat.

I meant chuck the bushing in the drill press

tempdoug · Apr 22, 2011

And maybe go down to a flat fine tooth file clamped on the drill table. I think we got er. Going to try it in the morning.

flybynite · Apr 27, 2011

I use a tube within a tube as a holder for the bushing and another for pushing the bushing into the disk. The length is adjusted (always shorter than what you started with) by pushing it into the grinder for for a bit longer. I have used this on bushings as short as the ones on the horiz stabilizer brace wire fittings.

Wayne

jgerard · Apr 27, 2011

I needed to quickly paint a set of horizontal stab's and built a simple rotator that clamped to a saw horse. the front tube is a piece of scrap conduit tube and the rear pice is a junk piece of heavy wall pipe with a plate welded to it. Took less than 5 min to pick out the scrap metal, weld it, wire brush it clean and clamp to the saw horse.

Dan Stewart is demonstrating flipping it from one side to the other.

Jason

flybynite · Apr 27, 2011

D.A. said:
One thing I haven't seen posted here is a handy dandy home made brake or a source and user results/recommendations for a cheap benchtop.

I found plans and a well documented DIY on a woodwork forum here It is quite good. If you skip ahead to post 64 n on page 5 and 102 on page 7, he has downloadable pdf and dxf files if you want to get your parts machined.

Wayne

mike mcs repair · Jun 4, 2011

no fancy jig needed for putting the twist in flaps and ailerons, and its guaranteed to match wing twist...just make sure WING twist is proper before doing this...

you do this before you rivet along spar(or remove rivets).. pictures were taking midway through project after some riveting was done...

simple just a bunch of strait sticks/bars, and some washers and bolts...

note there is a 3/16" space taped to striat edges, to help miss trailing edge skin/screws on wing and help lay flat on ribs.. also why there are 3 washer on top of strait edge, to make gap same...

mike mcs repair · Jun 4, 2011

putting flap gap fairing on square/strait?

the trailing edge of wing is usually not strait... so i make a chalk line hidden under where fairings will be and then measure off this line to mark where fairing really goes...

Marty57 · Jun 12, 2011

I needed the pulley cage and attach fittings for the aileron pulleys on my 2+2 wing; stock PA 18 parts. Well, being cheap and enjoying the process, I decided to make my own. The attach fitting has a double joggle necessary to fit the bolt to the spar and attach to the much smaller cage. The stock part has a double joggle. The part is pretty inexpensive but I would have to order it, wait, pay shipping, etc. So I made my own. The double joggle was tricky but a couple pieces of oak, a band saw, a press and finished parts.

First the block to form the double joggle:

Then the press:

Finished parts with parts before bending:

Finished attached to cage:

All the cages and brackets (one extra) ready to prime:

The cage with the attach fitting is listed from Univair for $68; 4 needed with shipping about $280. My cost about $10 worth of steel (including ones I first screwed up). Yes it took me some time but a great way to spend a couple of furlough days from work! Amazing what you can make from a little bit of oak. The point is parts can sometimes be fabricated with some not-to-fancy tools.

Steve Pierce · Jun 12, 2011

Nice, I like that idea.

D.A. · Jun 17, 2011

Not near as clever as the offerings from the rest of you, but it's quick, easy, cheap and works great. One 8' 4X4 cut in half, one allthread, two lawn mower wheels and a hand full of hardware. The 4X4s bolt to the engine mount pads. The height is just perfect, rolls easy and doesn't take up anymore width than the frame itself. To me it seemed easier to bolt to the engine mount pads rather than the normal gear attach fittings.

qsmx440 · Jun 18, 2011

Marty57 said:

I needed the pulley cage and attach fittings for the aileron pulleys on my 2+2 wing; stock PA 18 parts. Well, being cheap and enjoying the process, I decided to make my own. The attach fitting has a double joggle necessary to fit the bolt to the spar and attach to the much smaller cage. The stock part has a double joggle. The part is pretty inexpensive but I would have to order it, wait, pay shipping, etc. So I made my own. The double joggle was tricky but a couple pieces of oak, a band saw, a press and finished parts.

Click to expand...

Marty57 said:
Marty do you plan to plate these parts or paint? I have been considering one of those plating kits but have never done it yet.

Marty57 · Jun 18, 2011

I painted the cages. I decided to use Eco Prime and will top coat with Epoxy. I bought a gallon of the Eco Prime and debated about switching to Epoxy prime but am using what I have. I used a cheap air brush from Harbor Freight (thanks Christian for the suggestion) Everything made recently ( 30 or so pieces ) is currently "oven baking" in my attic; the heat is good for something.
Marty.

qsmx440 · Jun 19, 2011

Thanks Marty.

D.A. · Jul 13, 2011

With a couple 2X4 cross pieces, the temp gear becomes a rotator.

mike mcs repair · Jul 13, 2011

D.A. said:
With a couple 2X4 cross pieces, the temp gear becomes a rotator.

that's way to simple ;-) very nice....

you get extra credit if it gets wheels on all sides now ;-)

kevin · Jul 13, 2011

DA, I did the same thing. The only thing I don't like about it is it is bulky and a little hard to rotate, at least it is for me, but it works good.

I bought an engine stand from Harbor Freight. I'm planning on using it during the fabric process. It needs a wider stance for stability so I will have to modify it to work. I think it will be easier than the 2x4 method.

D.A. · Jul 14, 2011

kevin said:
DA, I did the same thing...

So Kevin, on my build thread I stated that someone else on the forum had done the 2X4 thing but I couldn't remember who it was. Was it you that posted pictures of cross 2X4s? I gotta give credit where credit is due.

jimboflying · Aug 24, 2011

I decided to make a gang tool setup for my lathe work. I then decided I needed to have controlable coolant for each tool so I put together this setup with toggle switches and needle valves for volume control.

mike mcs repair · Aug 24, 2011

jimboflying said:
I decided to make a gang tool setup for my lathe work. I then decided I needed to have controlable coolant for each tool so I put together this setup with toggle switches and needle valves for volume

wow....

taking notes here!!!!!!!!!!

Gordon Misch · Aug 25, 2011

http://www.sterlingmachinery.com/results.php?keywords=turret+lathe

kevin · Aug 25, 2011

D.A. said:
So Kevin, on my build thread I stated that someone else on the forum had done the 2X4 thing but I couldn't remember who it was. Was it you that posted pictures of cross 2X4s? I gotta give credit where credit is due.

Wasn't me D.A. I don't know how to post pictures.......yet.

Ursa Major · Aug 25, 2011

This one maybe?

Binty · Sep 5, 2011

A simple 30 degree Tube cutting template to use when you cant use a mitre/drop saw.

mike mcs repair · Sep 27, 2011

I had an epiphany today....

and after a 25 lb bag of material from AIH(Alaska Industrial Hardware), it sits, half done on the lathe

look for a cool tool(s) tomorrow.....

or an...

ya IdioT! that's exactly why no one does it that way!!!!!!!

;-)

I thinks it will qualify NEW cool tool category!!.........

PS.. my 85 yr old stepfather Windy came over today and sorted out the 7 blue organizer cabinets I sent through the mail 19 years ago when we sold the Air taxi in Naknek......

do you have ANY idea what FULL small hardware organizers cabinets contents look like after a trip through the US mail????

that is EXACTLY why they have sat,

pushed back to the back of the shelves for 19 years..... ;-)

mike mcs repair · Sep 27, 2011

mike mcs repair said:
I had an epiphany today....

and after a 25 lb bag of material from AIH(Alaska Industrial Hardware), it sits, half done on the lathe

look for a cool tool(s) tomorrow.....

or an...

ya IdioT! that's exactly why no one does it that way!!!!!!!

;-)

I thinks it will qualify NEW cool tool category!!.........

well, It's a work in progress.... but I like it....

I was gonna make some new steel rolling dies like shown in post #67 in the kydex thread

EDIT: replaced link with better one

http://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...nterior-Panels&p=503509&viewfull=1#post503509

well, it seems I cleaned the 2 1/2" bar stock to some hidden corner of my shop :-(

so plan 'B'.... got looking at those washers from post 67 in other thread... and it hit me...

instead of making MANY single use die sets, why not make a bunch of thin pieces from washers and PVC pipe... and then stack them on roller however to make unlimited patterns.....
(think old erector set...)

so This is mostly a tool so I put it in this thread...

you can probably make one with a drill press and a file if you dont have a lathe...

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