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Thread: tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

  1. #721
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lq0LB0X2hvA


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  2. #722

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    Pretty damn good, not what I would want for the size tubing our projects need but for automotive rollcage work that is cool. Granted there is no way you could put a formed tube into his or any rotator.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process

  3. #723
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    THE HVAC guy who powered up a mini split AC I installed, had a couple neat tools. One was a digital torque crescent/adjustable wrench, that made two different tones when the desired torque was nearly reached, and then reached. The other was a smart phone ap that worked with a pressure transducer, to wirelessly indicate pressure. 90 today out, 70 in!
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  4. #724
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    I was welding rudder hinges on when I found that I needed to ream them out because of some distortion. There was no way to line up the drill without the drill chuck deflecting the angel of the drill bit. I decided to braze a socket onto the end of the drill so that I could hook a 1/4” universal joint onto the end of the drill bit and then turn the the assembly by hand or with the electric drill. It worked well.
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  5. #725

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    I was having trouble collapsing lifters in a small continental, so I used this method. Put cylinder on TDC and then use a dial indicator and a wedge to put pressure, it took about 2-3 minutes for the lifter to collapse. When I took the wedge out it would pump right back up...I used a screw driver for my wedge. Tim

  6. #726

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    I was having trouble collapsing lifters in a small continental, so I used this method. Put cylinder on TDC and then use a dial indicator and a wedge to put pressure, it took about 2-3 minutes for the lifter to collapse. When I took the wedge out it would pump right back up...I used a screw driver for my wedge. TimClick image for larger version. 

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  7. #727
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    I decided to make a 2X72 belt grinder from You Tube internet plans. I added a small wheel set with various sizes to be able to fishmouth tubes. Belts with various materials and grits are available. These grinders are commonly used to make knives. It seems to work well for this purpose as well.
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  8. #728
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    Fuselage rotisserie

    I know that the use of these is nothing new and that several Design ideas have been submitted here, so why not add one more.

    For my recent 18A restoration I felt a need to make life a bit easier. My older age is showing me that I don’t fit into the jungle gym for welding near as easy as my memory tells me.

    Being able to rotate the frame is essential but to also be able to adjust its height is a game changer!

    Keeping this thing simple, easy to operate and build on a budget, along with being able to dismantle for storage was the goal.

    The photos are self explanatory for fabrication. Vertical adjustments are quickly made using two 1/4 ton CM chain hoists which have worked great.
    The frame work attaching to the front bulkhead can be repositioned for balance changes by drilling two more holes for the cross member attachment. FYI. The rotational balance point for a bare frame is almost dead center for this one. As components are added you will want to be able to adjust.

    The framework is simple square steel tubing and has shown to be very stable in all directions. The clamp used for the brake prevents the separation of the rotator. Not having wheels adds to stability but I may add something later if needed.

    The rear support has no locking mechanism but is also vertically adjustable. Separation is prevented with a bolt in the shaft. (Not shown)

    Each end needs to have a double hinged attachment to work properly. I made this with two different types as I already had one made.

    I use a TIG with foot pedal control and with this setup being able to find a comfortable position is a huge blessing!
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    Ed
    Thanks Steve Pierce, tedwaltman1, bcone1381 thanked for this post

  9. #729

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    Simple socket to install the cylinder drain back hoses on a lycoming a long extension and it pushes right on.
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  10. #730
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    Got one of these a couple days ago, and am impressed with it's quality. It will be my plane's air source, onboard at all times. It doesn't sound tinny when running, more like a real air compressor, just a lot smaller. under 3 pounds all up weight, including a storage bag and accessories. EPAuto 12V DC Portable Air Compressor Pump, Digital Tire Inflator
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  11. #731

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    Good luck with that compressor, I would not want to try to inflate a car tire all the way up with it. Out of curiosity, how long is the reach of the cord & hose?
    If one has a desire for a portable compressor that you can trust you might look into Viair compressors. These are tools, not toys.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process
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  12. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by astjp2 View Post
    I was having trouble collapsing lifters in a small continental, so I used this method. Put cylinder on TDC and then use a dial indicator and a wedge to put pressure, it took about 2-3 minutes for the lifter to collapse. When I took the wedge out it would pump right back up...I used a screw driver for my wedge. TimClick image for larger version. 

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    Make a rod/dowel a little longer then your push rod with a 1/32 wire centered on the end about half a inch long. Remove the pushrod from the engine and insert your new tool rod wire end first. Jiggle it around till the wire goes thru the hole in the center of the cup on top of the lifter. Depress the tool with some light pressure and the wire will depress the valve in the top of the hydrolic unit releasing the pressure

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  13. #733
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    I'm not sure which Viair model you are referring too, but their smallest model, the 70P, appears to be very similar to the one I got. Same exact CFM even. 1.06. Same accessories also. NOT that I did a lot of comparison shopping in advance or anything, which was all the more surprising to find it more then a toy. I like the auto shut off if it overheats, and also the digital pressure set buttons, with a digital gauge, that auto shuts off when that pressure is reached.
    I can get off the ground with 2-2.5 pounds in my 29" Airstreaks, (Light plane) I'm not trying to blow up a truck tire to 85 PSI, or a 35" ABW even, this ought to suffice for my modest needs OK. Now, after buying it, and reading a few reviews on it, I like it even more. About 9' of fairly heavy gauge 2 conductor, and 2.5' of airline. I've landed a lot of sharp rocky ridges and have never had a tire issue yet, now that I am "aired up" (I also finally got around to putting together a decent patch kit) I full expect that to change, Murphey's Law. Keeping the tire pressure low, 3.5 pounds max for me anyway, seems to be the best way to not have an issue, even if it extends the takeoff roll a bit, and for sure makes it harder to push out of the hangar.
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  14. #734
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Still practicing and learning anodizing a few years later. Getting some consistent results or errors. The one item is a cleco like fastener for installing firewall/boot cowl. Much nicer/less babysitting with using the electric kettles. The other photos are making titanium springs to attach the aluminum parts. Anyone got suggestions??

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  15. #735
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  16. #736

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    Have you talked to Caswell plating?

  17. #737
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by astjp2 View Post
    Have you talked to Caswell plating?
    they won't ship to alaska.....

    ended up getting the supplies out of canada... (origin of USA ....)

  18. #738

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    Ship to me and I can forward

  19. #739
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by astjp2 View Post
    Ship to me and I can forward
    well actually they quoted me over $900 to ship 200 or $300 worth of stuff.. mostly empty buckets and 2 LBS of dry chemicals... neat company, neat products.. but useless to me...

    I think I have all I need now... just need to practice more..

  20. #740
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    Looks great. Very nice color. The problems I have had is getting the same color saturation on different batches or sizes. Any suggestions?
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  21. #741
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    For others living with the hardships of having to go outside to get to the hangar, just to plug in the electric pre heater. Or, to plug in the block heater on your tractor. In my case, overnight drifts can make this a pain, getting booted up just to start preheating, before you've had your coffee. Technology has once again made our life easier. No more wasted power by using a timer or just leaving things pre heating all the time, no more partially pre heated starts because you were too lazy to trek out to the pole barn or hangar and get things started. I have two of these, both about 97' away, and will be getting a third. One for my car's 1500 watt cabin heater, in it's unheated pole barn. One for the Kubota in it's shed, which was a bit out of the remote's range, but a 50' extension cord solved that. The third will be for the hangar and the 200 watt pad heaters on the Rotax's case. The benefits or thorough pre heating all of our equipment is well known, these make it easy.

    I don't think these are a new thing, but they are to me anyway! I have a 15 watt witness bulb slaved to the same circuit, so I get visual confirmation the load is on. Right now, I haven't left the house (20 degrees and windy) but when I get in the car to head to work shortly, it'll be mid 60's, the steering wheel won't be ice cold, and the seats rock hard, due to a 2 hr. cabin pre heat. The best tool I've bought in a while, one I'll use every day this winter. https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Fosm...78405256&psc=1
    Last edited by courierguy; 12-09-2020 at 11:40 AM.

  22. #742
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    I just used a tool I made up the other day,
    to pull the two halves of the wheel together when mounting a tire.
    Seen similar used for bushwheels, but even 850's are a PITA to mount when juggling the wheel halves & brake rotor.
    Stupid simple-- basically two big-ass washers & a piece of 3/8" all thread.
    Couldn't find washers with a big enough OD,
    so I ended up welding a couple washers together to create heavy duty 3/8" fender washers.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!

  23. #743

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    Quote Originally Posted by astjp2 View Post
    Simple socket to install the cylinder drain back hoses on a lycoming a long extension and it pushes right on.
    THANKS! Used that trick yesterday on my 0-360, it worked slick. I've used my hands, but they always wind up looking like a pile of hamburger afterward.

    Thanks. cubscout
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  24. #744

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    I have a similar set up except I turned a couple hardwood inserts on my lathe that fit into the bearing hole and have a larger diameter section that rides outside the bearing hole. Keeps the threaded rod centered in the hole and nothing gets scratched by it or the big washer.
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  25. #745

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    Been changing the engine on the 180 with a trolly mounted chain hoist and thanks to Steve Pierce’s tip I purchased a pair of these car dollies ($90 @ Harbor Freight) which really make it easy to get the aircraft aligned with the hoist.

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    Remember, These are the Good old Days!

  26. #746
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    They work on Bushwheels as well. Great for stacking airplanes right where you want one.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  27. #747
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDCROWE View Post
    Been changing the engine on the 180 with a trolly mounted chain hoist and thanks to Steve Pierce’s tip I purchased a pair of these car dollies ($90 @ Harbor Freight) which really make it easy to get the aircraft aligned with the hoist.

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    I've had a pair of those for years I've used for everything EXCEPT for what they were designed for, moving cars, and I guess planes, sideways. Then I wanted to get my 29' span S-7S into my shop, with it's 17' wide door, easy peasy.
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  28. #748
    courierguy's Avatar
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    This deburring tool link came up on a forum for building the RANS S-21, for deburring when you can't get to the other side. So simple, but new to me anyway, looks interesting. https://cogsdill.com/products/deburring-tools/burraway
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  29. #749
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    Quote Originally Posted by courierguy View Post
    This deburring tool link came up on a forum for building the RANS S-21, for deburring when you can't get to the other side. So simple, but new to me anyway, looks interesting. https://cogsdill.com/products/deburring-tools/burraway
    They work great. My former job was doing heavy sheet metal work in a big warbird shop and these were very handy. I presently use one when installing Performance STOL Flaps for deburring the hole drilled in the bottom of the flap hangers that the false spar impedes getting in from the top side.
    Steve Pierce

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  30. #750

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    Quote Originally Posted by courierguy View Post
    This deburring tool link came up on a forum for building the RANS S-21, for deburring when you can't get to the other side. So simple, but new to me anyway, looks interesting. https://cogsdill.com/products/deburring-tools/burraway
    they work good when building stainless 80% 1911 frames too...
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  31. #751
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    A little why not project


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  32. #752
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    This deburring tool link came up on a forum for building the RANS S-21, for deburring when you can't get to the other side. So simple, but new to me anyway, looks interesting. https://cogsdill.com/products/deburring-tools/burraway
    the yard store has this

  33. #753

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post

    A little why not project
    Even anodized the mandrel, cool. I tend to just make the tool, used it and set it aside.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process
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  34. #754

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    Quote Originally Posted by brown bear View Post
    This deburring tool link came up on a forum for building the RANS S-21, for deburring when you can't get to the other side. So simple, but new to me anyway, looks interesting.
    That looks useful, looks to roll off it's cutting edge such that it does not score the bore.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process
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  35. #755
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieN View Post
    Even anodized the mandrel, cool. I tend to just make the tool, used it and set it aside.
    More for practice anodizing..... finally getting titanium spring holders made that are reliable. That’s been my biggest problem. And to get it to JUST be a side job while I do other work. And just check it every 10 minutes or so. Practice practice. So when I really need it on a real part I can confidently do it without babysitting it for 2 hours....


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  36. #756
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod180 View Post
    I just used a tool I made up the other day,
    to pull the two halves of the wheel together when mounting a tire.
    Seen similar used for bushwheels, but even 850's are a PITA to mount when juggling the wheel halves & brake rotor.
    Stupid simple-- basically two big-ass washers & a piece of 3/8" all thread.
    Couldn't find washers with a big enough OD,
    so I ended up welding a couple washers together to create heavy duty 3/8" fender washers.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!

  37. #757
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    The problem I have had with anodizing is to get different size batches the same shade of color. Does anyone have suggestions?

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