wireweinie
FOUNDER
Palmer, AK
Strange things have been done before and they flew just fine. It won't let me post the pic but google up BV 141.
Web
tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff
- Thread starter mike mcs repair
- Start date
Strange things have been done before and they flew just fine. It won't let me post the pic but google up BV 141.
Web
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
Strange things have been done before and they flew just fine. It won't let me post the pic but google up BV 141.
Web
wireweinie
FOUNDER
Palmer, AK
Thanks Mike
Web
Web
Mike: Look around for an old "camera developer" timer. I don't know the actual name of the timer but they were used for developing pictures maybe for a light or something. They have tenths and seconds settings. Plug a heavy duty 120 vac relay into it and control your spot welder with the relay. I got mine for 5 bucks at good will. Spot welder is the Harbor Freight 150 dollar cheapee. That welding aluminum trick works real good and you will tear the aluminum before breaking the weld if done right. One thing I will add to Cruiser160's description is just before welding brush real good with a stainless steel wire brush (from welding supply store). Never use that brush for anything else. Wipe with acetone and then weld. The only downside you can't place welds (spots) to close together.
I assembled mine in a box with relay output to 120 v receptacle and find it useful for many projects.
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
thanks!,
I have 2 timers, relays and all from another project already
somewhere...... will have to give it a whirlhmmmm, actually the relay is hooked to a digital temp controller already... hmmm might already have what I need...
so.... why not just stainless tips on welder, with wider foot print?
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thanks!,
I have 2 timers, relays and all from another project already
hmmmm, actually the relay is hooked to a digital temp controller already... hmmm might already have what I need...
so.... why not just stainless tips on welder, with wider foot print?
I wondered about stainless tips also? Maybe the wider footprint of a sheet keeps air out our maybe tips would work fine? Perhaps to keep the welder multi use? I don't understand how it works- it just does.
jimboflying
MEMBER
While TIG welding thicker aluminum I found that the 50 amp breaker was being tripped at the higher power settings required. It was suggested that adding some helium to the argon would increase penetration at a lower power setting. I made this mixing Y and hooked up a helium tank. The amount added could be changed by different flow rates. The addition of helium did seem to help.
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Larry G
Registered User
Minocqua WI
We just got one of these heat guns at work and they sure are nice. I think they would work for covering. The temp is very adjustable from nothing to more than you want. It seems like the heat stays right where you set it. Just turn the dial on the back.http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ci_sku=47502&gclid=CKXnsPrDocgCFc4WHwodCZUGLQ
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
this has been the best one I have used around the shop since 1997 and still ain't broke it or had a bad heat element... unlike those red ones that you might burn up an element just looking at them wrong...
Bosch 1942 14.3 Amp Heat Gun
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
Ray Stits would turn over in his grave at that above picture....
A 1/4 ton high quality chain comalong, small enough to fit in a tool box! I got this as a birthday present this year, and it's small size makes it extremely handy to have around, I love this thing.
A 1/4 ton high quality chain comalong, small enough to fit in a tool box! I got this as a birthday present this year, and it's small size makes it extremely handy to have around, I love this thing.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
I agree. That picture is of a big name shop in Anchorage building the Alaskan Airmen Association give away Super Cub.
Cub junkie
Registered User
My Moms basement
That picture in post #431 reminds me of Larry the cable guy, "git R done". Wonder how many other short cuts were used?
Alaska_Rallyer
Registered User
Know the guy and his cover jobs are top notch. Maybe he has a infrared thermometer implanted in his eyeball because hes good. Probably doing a little pre shrink action or was just really nervous with SP taking pictures of him and wanted to give a show.... Anyhow sometimes the crescent wrench works just fine.
courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
It's label says : HARRINGTON INDUSTRIES CODE: (model, I guess) LX300 1/4 ton The handle is just barely out of the picture, real short in other words, the entire thing easily fits in a nail belt. PRODUCT OF JAPAN, so you know it's good, not Harbor Freight crap.
A past girlfriend and I used to have fun with her purse: I'd load her up for instance with a pair of cleco pliers, or maybe a fan spacer tool or both, something odd looking and unknown to any except plane people, and she'd wait until someone asked her for a match or a pen or whatever (she was a bartender, a professional stand up comedian on the side, plus an ex city cop) and she'd root around through all the usual girlie stuff and leave people to wonder just what the heck these odd looking tools were doing in her purse, maybe some kind of eyelash curler?! This little comalong would have been perfect for that!
cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
You might be Dyslexic like me
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...GTON+INDUSTRIES+CODE:++LX300+1/4+ton&_sacat=0
Glenn
Chicken Hawk
Registered User
Southern NH & Eastern Maine
You might be Dyslexic like me
Is it dyslexic or dyslexia or is sexdaily?.......I never get the letters in the right order!
Eddie Foy
MEMBER
South Florida
Now that there is weird. You and Glenn would make a good pair
cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
flybynite
FOUNDER
Eagan, Minnesota
I'm working on my hangar and needed to lift 12' sheets of 5/8" firecode sheetrock into place and hold them til I was able to get a few screws into it. I have a regular drywall lift, but is is barely able to lift a piece of 1/2" to an 8' ceiling. (cheap chinese stuff that bent and broke and has been patched many times.)
I repurposed my engine hoist by extending the boom with a piece of 2" square tube and welded some tabs to that to hold a frame that would support the drywall on edge. A supplemental arm to keep the drywall roughly vertical and I was ready to roll. (or rock)
The frame is beefier than needed, but I have two of them on hand. I hook a bungee onto the top of the sheet and the c clamp to keep the board from tipping prematurely.
The frame does extend beyond the legs, So I tested it for upset by raising the boom and hanging on the frame. No problem with my 200 lbs, so I figured it would be okay with a 120lb piece of drywall.
Wayne
I repurposed my engine hoist by extending the boom with a piece of 2" square tube and welded some tabs to that to hold a frame that would support the drywall on edge. A supplemental arm to keep the drywall roughly vertical and I was ready to roll. (or rock)
The frame is beefier than needed, but I have two of them on hand. I hook a bungee onto the top of the sheet and the c clamp to keep the board from tipping prematurely.
The frame does extend beyond the legs, So I tested it for upset by raising the boom and hanging on the frame. No problem with my 200 lbs, so I figured it would be okay with a 120lb piece of drywall.
Wayne
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jimboflying
MEMBER
Does anyone know how to dress a bench grinder wheel to a constant curved form for fish mouthing tubing?
Marty57
PATRON
Nipomo, Ca
I used a standard dressing wheel to shape my wheel. I pre-cut most of my tubes with my 4-1/2" grinder first and finished on the wheel. Any tube .049 or less I cut with Aviation Snips first. I was surprised how easy it was to cut the tubes with the snips and the angle grinder.
Marty57
Marty57
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
yup just use snips!
jimboflying
MEMBER
I made some heavy equipment movers. The axles are 1/2" drill rod which I turned down to 12mm in the area of the bearings and cut the clip groove. I then heat treated them in a furnace, water hardened, and then tempered them. I then welded them to 1/2" steel plate and then installed the 12mm ball bearings with the retaining clip. The idea was to make a low profile set of dollies that could support a lot of weight and be placed under the machine with mimimal lifting from a long pry bar and pivot. The center of the plate has a set screw so that it could be retracted or deployed to get a small bite into whatever was placed on top so as not to slide off. It could also act as a pivot point.
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
grumble!.... Google's killing off Picasa and killed off the embedded pictures i used to post here... will have to edit these(but probably can't because of SJ's 24 hour rule) to point to the new location of the images....
jimboflying
MEMBER
I am building an instrument panel and wanted the upper edge rounded and radiused. I made two templates out of MDF wood and radiused the top edge of one of them. I clamped the metal between them. As I worked the edge over it wrinkled of course. I then used a shrinking tool to help reduce the wrinkles. I annealed the Aluminum several times by marking with an ink Sharpie and then burning off the ink with a torch. As I neared the end I used a lead slap hammer to smooth the wrinkles and do the final adaptation. The slap hammer is just made from sheets of lead. It worked suprisingly well. Excess material was cut off as needed.
