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tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

Bead rollers are great. I had problems making really straight lines and was limited by the offsets of the rollers available.
 
The fancier ($$) rollers have good guides which really help with straight lines, power feed helps a lot too.
for the offset I’m doing in the photo above I made a guide out of an aluminum disc and stacked washers behind die for spacing. Im currently doing a kydex interior, the roller really ads a nice finishing touch to panels.
 
Getting926FD601-A03D-46FE-8CBB-A77F305066B2.jpg7FAC3DC6-4E74-4C6F-8545-8CA1AB966F8D.jpg a little rednek here.
but made a guide for wider stuff, guide clamps on and adjusts with vice grips, works pretty well.
 

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Now this is a vice. Was putting glass in a big Kamatsu dozer at a local farm shop when I saw this, pedestal is floor mounted to a 4'x4' x 3/4" thick steel plate. My XXL glove for comparison

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Glenn
 

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A couple months ago bought this…

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It’s a Laser cutter, etcher all around cool machine that is primarily being used for doing this..

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Marking part numbers, serial numbers and other bits of info on our STC products.. The above pictures are remote drain lever arms for our remote drain gascolators bowls..

I also picked up a Creality Ender 3 3D printer for making jigs to use in the laser.. here is one for one of our gascolator covers..

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Although we got it for our products, I can’t help but play with it on my off time and make things for family like the following..

Made this for my wife, she loves elephants..

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Made this for my dragon loving nephew..

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Working on this shelf for my daughters gem stones..

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My son printed this..

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To use in the hot Rod dash here..

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Angled the gauges for better viewing..

Speaking of hot Rod ..

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In the shop doing an electrical system..

Brian
 
Turns out, these remote units are common and inexpensive enough to be linked to the micro (what they call them) linear actuators on Amazon, that's how they came to my attention. I tapped into the plane's e system forward of the firewall, right close to where the control unit (about the size of a pack of gum, with high quality WX proof disconnects on both ends) is zip tied.

My mind is spinning for other uses for these things. First, my crane has 2 lube points in the boom, only accessible is you extend EXACTLY the right amount of boom, usually it takes two people, and yelling back and forth, or if me alone lots of climbing up the ladder, then back down and up into the crane cab, a PITA. I am going to make a simple clamp on device using these two items, so I can retract or extend the boom while on the ladder, using the remote. If I get real crazy.... I can think of lots of other uses for around the compound, the crane, and the plane, but will hold off until I see how reliable they are. They seem almost too good to be true.
 
I stepped off what seemed to about 70-80', and I have a good eye being the crane biz, and it still worked. If I didn't already have a hard wired Ray Allen electric pitch tab, I'd consider it's use for that to be....worth looking into.

I ordered another today, for my crane lube scheme, and as that need is infrequent, I will use the same actuator and remote to mod my tail hook release on my ski ramp. More to follow.
 
More fun with the little micro linear actuators and their (optional) remote control.

This is my tail hook release, used on my staging area to hold back the S-7 while I do a partial runup, on the skis, and right at the edge of my sloped "runway". It started out being ON the tail, then last year I had the idea of using the Hydro Swing door truss as a hardpoint and with a pulley and some paracord leading up to the cockpit, I could release it and fly off, leaving most of the hardware on the ground except for a 8' length of rope which I remove on the first landing, or not, doesn't hurt anything and maybe adds a bit of yaw stability!

Now, no more open window and paracord, (or worries about maybe the paracord fouling on the tail rigging...) just another key fob remote and click, it releases. I had wondered if the frequency would be the same or different then the one I'm using for my oil cooler shutter, turns out they are different so one doesn't interfere with the other.
 

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When using pliobond 20 in the tubes, I have found that you need to use the whole tube, mix and then coat the crank seal because it separates in the tube and the tube splits long before you can get it mixed. I now just consider it part of the cost of replacing seal for the 6.30 for a tube.
 
When using pliobond 20 in the tubes, I have found that you need to use the whole tube, mix and then coat the crank seal because it separates in the tube and the tube splits long before you can get it mixed. I now just consider it part of the cost of replacing seal for the 6.30 for a tube.
I use the can, didn't know it came in a tube.
 
If you have to use the whole tube shelf life is not really a concern is it?
Yes, I had a can and it would evaporate before I would get 2-3 seals done or the lid would get stuck. tubes are cleaner and I can stock 5-6 and always have fresh glue on the shelf.
 
Digital propeller timing indicator, smart level snaps in aluminum bar gets taped to propeller blade .
 

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Hand cable splicing clamp kit. Stainless steel.

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I am still looking for a Kearney swager, even just someone who could roll swage my cables.
 
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