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tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

For 20 years I have used my little 29$ wally world floor jack to change tires and skis. But now that I have wider skis and tires the jack is always in the way of the wider tires and skis. I have about 40 bucks in this and its stable and very easy and quick to use. I was going to weld a nut on them so I could run them with my cordless but they crank real easy.





Glenn
 
Two sprockets, a small chain , another spreader bar and a welded nut , and you could sell that thing a thousand bucks!

Thanks for sharing your setup.
 
newest version of my one man trammel end project...

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Mike do you think you could design a fitting to fit in a tool like this to swage cables and maybe do all three crimps at once

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You just caused me to look for the radius cutter I had to have right away that's been in the box for ten years or so. Love those home grown tools.
 
Mike, what are you holding your back window up with in your SUV, a broom stick? I see you took the ends off of the gas shocks

Glenn
 
Does anyone have ideas or tools for drilling horizontal stabs and the inner tubes so they are straight and symetrical?

Thanks,
Ray
 
Check amazon for "Big Gator" drill guide. They have several V blocks and are well made right here in the USA. Quality tool.
Does anyone have ideas or tools for drilling horizontal stabs and the inner tubes so they are straight and symetrical?

Thanks,
Ray
 
This was over on the J3 site

Glenn



Cables were woven originally. Then later in L-4 production, they went to this split swage style press fitting shown in the photo below, then at some point I guess to the standard nicopress.
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Kevin,
Thanks, the Big Gator block looks like it should work. I'll give it a try.

Ray
 
I've used it for the task you mentioned. Wish I had one for the last five I've done. Good for a lot of jobs around the workshop.
Kevin,
Thanks, the Big Gator block looks like it should work. I'll give it a try.

Ray
 
anyone try these, instead of castors......

for under your wing stands???

I got 10 coming to see how they work... low profile.....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBF5LA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7766

They finally arrived from amazon....

Will see how these work as castors on my stackable wing racks.

I rode around sitting on it so that's almost 190lbs and they worked ok.


Happy so far, Will see if they hold up over time

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was afraid I would hit the screws holding sides to the 2x4, so did not drill all the way for depth of units...(poor planing!, but hey its the photo type...)

also my wood bit drilled a little large, easy slip fit... so i guess i could have epoxy them in but screws were easier...

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Portable fuselage jig

Thinking about the practicality of a take down frame jig.

One could build it out of lightweight square tube, say 2x2x.095.
start with a square frame that would sit on top of the skylight with sturdy tabs that bolt to all 4 wing attach points. Same bolts could attach "legs" that hang down and connect to gear attach, another leg from square frame to wing strut attach.
Kind of a bolt on external cage.

If the jig is fashioned around a straight frame, discrepancies would show if fitted to a questionable frame , no?

Poor mans jig for sure , only taking into account relationship of major attach points, maybe incorperate engine mounts if needed.

Break it down and mail it around to those unfortunate souls , like myself, who've got a frame to check and are 3 states away from the nearest jig.
 
I needed to get to an area of aluminum sheet with the shrinking tool but could not because of the limitation of the throat length of the shrinker. So I decided to take the shrinker apart and remove the jaws. I then made a metal cage to surround the feet and the angle block from the bottom section of the shrinker. When the parts were placed into the cage, and the serrated feet were placed on the area to be shrunk, the top angled block could be tapped with a hammer. When the top block moves down with the tap, the inclined planes cause the lower feet blocks to move towards each other. Because the feet have sharp serrations they bite into the metal surface and when the blocks move towards each other they pinch the metal together causing the shrinkage. A solid metal block was used on the back side to prevent distortion of the sheet aluminum. It is often said that "Necessity is the mother of invention".
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The wife got tired of turning the beadroller so I motorized it for her. Ebay had a 38 rpm motor, the implement dealer had sprockets and chain, the electrical shop had the required capacitor and 3pdt switch, and Radio shack had the project box. A couple of days work had it operational so that I could use the new top die that I made so I could try my hand at wire edge roll technique for my cowling for my experimental 14. The things I learned were that a foot control switch helps alot, the 2:1 reduction with the sprockets worked the speed to be about right, the technique looks alot easier on Youtube but a rookie can get acceptable results.
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Good show. Are you building a new cowl ring for the Faust?
Edit: Jimbo, I'm sure you know there are many choices in bead rollers from budget to expensive but if you haven't already been there you can find lots of clever mods for the budget versions on the jalopy journal in the forums. Any search on there like HF bead roller or similar will yield hours of reading.
 
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I am building a Faust 2. It is a PA14 with Dakota Cub 12 wings, flaps, 18 tailfeathers, Fairchild style struts with adjustable oil nitrogen struts, and a Rotec 150 hp radial engine.
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I see. I didn't know or didn't remember knowing your were going with a radial on the new airplane. I have the original issue of Sport Aviation featuring the Faust. Always thought it was a cool airplane.
 
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