tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

brown bear · Jan 10, 2021

This deburring tool link came up on a forum for building the RANS S-21, for deburring when you can't get to the other side. So simple, but new to me anyway, looks interesting. https://cogsdill.com/products/deburring-tools/burraway
the yard store has this

CharlieN · Jan 10, 2021

mike mcs repair said:
A little why not project

Even anodized the mandrel, cool. I tend to just make the tool, used it and set it aside.

CharlieN · Jan 10, 2021

brown bear said:
This deburring tool link came up on a forum for building the RANS S-21, for deburring when you can't get to the other side. So simple, but new to me anyway, looks interesting.

That looks useful, looks to roll off it's cutting edge such that it does not score the bore.

mike mcs repair · Jan 10, 2021

CharlieN said:
Even anodized the mandrel, cool. I tend to just make the tool, used it and set it aside.

More for practice anodizing..... finally getting titanium spring holders made that are reliable. That’s been my biggest problem. And to get it to JUST be a side job while I do other work. And just check it every 10 minutes or so. Practice practice. So when I really need it on a real part I can confidently do it without babysitting it for 2 hours....

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hotrod180 · Jan 13, 2021

hotrod180 said:
I just used a tool I made up the other day,
to pull the two halves of the wheel together when mounting a tire.
Seen similar used for bushwheels, but even 850's are a PITA to mount when juggling the wheel halves & brake rotor.
Stupid simple-- basically two big-ass washers & a piece of 3/8" all thread.
Couldn't find washers with a big enough OD,
so I ended up welding a couple washers together to create heavy duty 3/8" fender washers.

jimboflying · Jan 13, 2021

The problem I have had with anodizing is to get different size batches the same shade of color. Does anyone have suggestions?

mike mcs repair · Jan 17, 2021

Hopefully someone learns something from this. I have his books from 3 decades ago. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x8PDRAsMDXc

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jimboflying · Jan 29, 2021

I was having trouble clamping things to round tubes for tack welding. The clamps kept slipping off so I brazed a cut tube of slightly larger diameter to a screw clamp so it won’t slip off. I have found it to be very helpful.

jimboflying · Jan 29, 2021

In order to form the U channel without kinking I made a forming die with sides to capture the edges to prevent them from kinking. I took 3 sheets of metal, bolted them together after drilling holes, and then formed the outer edge in the shape that I wanted. I then took the pieces apart and placed spacer washers between the pieces and rebolted them together. When the U channel is placed in the grooves it can be retained on one end with the vise or a clamp. As the free end is bent around the form it can be persuaded with the beating instrument of your choice. If you want a gentler arc just move the channel to the section of the form that corresponds to the desired arc.

jimboflying · Jan 29, 2021

The center section is longer than the side plates to enable clamping the workpiece in the vise and to hold the whole device in the vise.

algonquin · Jan 31, 2021

I’ve been changing the cylinders on a O-320 ,parallel valves. Wondering what other guys use to compress the springs and installing the rocker arm s and shaft. Mine is a bit clumsy, but works , just like something nicer.

ak49flyer · Jan 31, 2021

Just bleed the lifters down (you’re checking dry lash anyway after changing cylinders, right?), and you don’t need to compress the valve springs to install rockers... that being said, I’d be interested in people’s valve spring compressors, have seen various versions and made one or two...

algonquin · Feb 1, 2021

More than one way to skin most cats,lol. One other way is check the dry lash , then remove the push rod( cover not installed yet) , oil the lifter assembly, install the push rod cover then push rod and then install the rocker arms and shaft. The valve spring need to be depressed slightly to smoothly install the oiled shaft. Kinda repeats some steps but when you crank the engine for the first time things are oiled and ready to rock(pun). I enjoy making little tools for jobs like this, Mike at MCS has to have a few. This isn’t meant as a jab, again different methods.

ak49flyer · Feb 1, 2021

Just spin the prop by hand for a few seconds and build oil pressure after installing the rockers- you’ll be able to feel/see when the lash is taken up- sounds like your method works too; lots more than one right way to do most things...

hotrod180 · Feb 2, 2021

Not home-made tooling, but old school & vintage :
Cam Tool Inc bead breaker for removing tires.

Easy to improvise something similar based on how this works.

astjp2 · Feb 3, 2021

I just love this little digital level, it works great for checking travel on ailerons, flaps and elevators, $29 on amazon and fits in my tool box easy. Tim

JimParker256 · Feb 3, 2021

I purchased a similar digital level, but in a more "elongated" (6") form that would allow me to attach it to the prop with a couple of elastic bands so I can set the pitch on my ground-adjustable prop, without needing a third hand, or performing unnatural acts. Added bonus that it comes with a pair of "bubble levels" built in so you can check the calibration easily in both the horizontal and vertical axes.

algonquin · Feb 3, 2021

Same for me, works great on my Wirlwind prop.

courierguy · Feb 11, 2021

I had a used spinner backing plate that was already drilled for nutplates, (though they had been removed and used on some other project) and when I went to install the spinner dome (no holes in it) I was faced with having to hit those existing nutplate holes dead nuts, but without being able to simply back drill as stuff was in the way. I tried re indexing the already drilled back plate on the hub dowels, but that didn't work,So I made this tool, which operates on the same principle as a strap hole duplicator. The thick nylon piece went underneath on the inside of the backing plate, and was moved around until the AN-3 clevis pin clicked into the 3/16" nutplate hole, then the aluminum top part, which had a corresponding 3/16" hole (both drilled on the drill press,only after the "tool" was assembled to insure automatic lining up) served as a guide to let me drill partially through the spinner, then the tool was removed and the drilling was completed. All this while the dome was precisely located (don't want another wobbler) and while clamped to the back plate with edge clamps. Everything fit up perfect, no wallowed out holes at all.

OLDCROWE · Mar 3, 2021

cubdrvr · Mar 4, 2021

Neat stuff on this thread ! I'm not a tool guy but made this some time ago with a saw,screwdriver and a couple dozen screws.
Fits in my A model and gives 75" of sleeping room.

........also works as a camping table when removed.

courierguy · Mar 4, 2021

Is that 3 legs I see, or is the 4 th hidden? If 3, a nice bit of weight saving/design work, (bet it doesn't wobble) if 4 never mind, good concept either way. I had a sleeping deck (72", flat and level) in my first RANS S-7, and it's ply deck was handy for evening out rough ground. It's the minor details that make camping out tolerable.

astjp2 · Mar 23, 2021

Just got these for removing roll pins. Work awesome!

cubdriver2 · Mar 23, 2021

astjp2 said:
Just got these for removing roll pins. Work awesome!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spring-Too...-/163124958562?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

astjp2 · Mar 23, 2021

Amazon was 27 overnight delivery

jimboflying · Jan 7, 2022

I made some dies for creating an offset in sheet metal. The top die needs to have a recess the thickness of the metal offset. The bottom one needs a recess the thickness of the metal plus the amount of offset desired. The bolts are used to keep the dies in alignment and thread into the bottom die. A heavy hammer can be used as a persuader or you could also use a hydraulic press for the forming pressure.

RVBottomly · Jan 7, 2022

jimboflying said:
I made some dies for creating an offset in sheet metal. The top die needs to have a recess the thickness of the metal offset. The bottom one needs a recess the thickness of the metal plus the amount of offset desired. The bolts are used to keep the dies in alignment and thread into the bottom die. A heavy hammer can be used as a persuader or you could also use a hydraulic press for the forming pressure.

Nice idea! Just last week I was trying to do something like that with a brake. It was tedious and sloppy.

Steve Pierce · Jan 8, 2022

RVBottomly said:
Nice idea! Just last week I was trying to do something like that with a brake. It was tedious and sloppy.

Make shims a bit thicker than the joggle, tape them to either side of the material to be joggled and use the shoe of the brake like a press to bend the sandwich of shims and material.

Nolan · Jan 8, 2022

Thanks for the Tip Steve!

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Oliver · Jan 8, 2022

I’ve been fooling around with a bead roller lately.
think you can get similar results:
if I’m interpreting your photos correctly.

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