Hunting season. Something(s) will appear!
Hunting season. Something(s) will appear!
Gordon
N4328M KTDO
My SPOT: tinyurl.com/N4328M (case sensitive)STaylor2 thanked for this post
mike mcs repair liked this post
I have found this Mag drill to be very handy
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mike mcs repair liked this post
this one is about car work, but could easily apply to making airplane metal work, simply, he explains things well... only watched a couple of his channels videos so far, but hope the rest are this informative...
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Anyone tried super glue-baking soda repairs for composites?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KU2qph...ature=youtu.be
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Practicing open cockpit extremismmike mcs repair liked this post
How was it to sand flush?
Interesting technique!
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Iirc ( it's been awhile) I think I used a file on it. I don't recall there being any significant difficulty to it.
Practicing open cockpit extremismgdafoe thanked for this post
I need to learn how to fix chips in my CF prop. Whirl Wind told me to fill the chips with gelled superglue and touch up the paint. No mention of sanding but I can't imagine how to get a good result without. Warp Speed says to use 5 minute JB Weld. Interesting stuff.
A tool, sort of, the BalanceMaster I have 13 hours on now is a no brainier re: prop Nick's/ balancing are concerned. Well worth the 10 Oz's weight, Rotax app.
Chicken Hawk liked this post
I have tried some Cherry Q self plugging 1/8 inch rivets but am having problems with the stem pulling all of the way through leaving an open hole. What am I doing wrong?
Steve Pierce
Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
Will Rogersmike mcs repair liked this post
Hole in rivet gun is too big
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I bought the actual cherry tool and it helped reduce the problem. Go figure.
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I am building some flaps which required longer cuts than my shear would make. I took the sheet metal and sandwiched it between two layers of my MDF bench top and screwed them together pinching the sheet tightly. I then scored the sheet multiple times with the tool previously suggested by someone here using the mdf edge as a guide. It took about 10-12 passes to separate the piece but it worked like a champ.
You can also use that clamping technique to create bend lines as needed.
I also made some supports to help with the finishing.
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I have had trouble welding small tubesto something without causing
distortion. I needed to make some flap pulley attach points that I could pass a bolt through. So I placed an aluminum rod through the small tube and clamped the base to a larger aluminum rod to act as chill blocks. The process worked well without distortion and after tig welding the rod just slipped out.
mike mcs repair liked this post
I quit using the Imperial valves and now I build these for the taylorcraft:
Its a 50,000 cycle valve with Teflon seals, no more seeps and sticking valves. I have the option of FPTxFPT and MPTxFPT, they have a 5/16" ID for a 1/4" valve. Can be used under the owner produced parts and built under a commercial spec that is allowed to be used in antique aircraft.
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RVBottomly thanked for this post
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Attachment 45365
I have found this variable finger tip control to be very helpful for out of position welding on my fuselage.
https://hecmedia.org/posts/props-to-alaina
more prop making
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I wondered what happened to the Backyard Flyer. It had a wing structure that required aluminum welding, so not really a homebuilt design, but it performed well with a generator vtwin. Gene Smith (grandpa) came up with an incredibly simple way to arrange the base of the control stick, I had to stare for a minute just to see how so few parts could result in a two axis stick. We lost a real original thinker.
What's a go-around?
I sent that video to my Dad. We use to watch Gene to touch and goes at the ultralight strip at Oshkosh for hours. He was always having a lot of fun. Some of our favorite memories of Oshkosh.
Steve Pierce
Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
Will Rogersmike mcs repair liked this post
A recent thread revealed some old jeepers on the forum, so here goes. There's been an old jeep with my homebrew 3pt hitch sitting between the hangar and strip here for about 20 years. I left it there to remind me when I get too clever sometimes. The mower deck was meant to turn backwards for a Kubota, so I just mowed in reverse, as old jeep ptos go in reverse with the transmission. I had the strip about half done during a dry summer when the cloud of chaff I was backing thru plugged the radiator and the engine expired with a cracked head. I used the starter to get it off the runway and there it has sat. Removing a jeep head with the studs packed with rust dust is not fun. This week I dragged it in and hooked up the head to a $150 Harbor Freight winch, clamped to a pipe spanning 3 rafters. Picked the front of the jeep off the floor and started whomping with a maul. Quick and straightforward method. Picture shows my new deck, it turns the right way.
What's a go-around?
Best $217 I spent on a tool from amazon
comparison review video of them.....
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Few more pictures starting to use it. And had to let girlfriend try it with her beads. Think I’ll need a second one.
Andonstar 5 inch Screen 1080P... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076XYRCYM...p_mob_ap_share
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About 20 years ago, my dad took an old handheld video camera and an old commodore monitor I gave him and made a device like that so my mom could continue readings with her macular degeneration. It had a wood and metal pipe stand you could move up and down. It was great for getting a close look at things and cost almost nothing, but it did take up a lot more space!
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Anybody have any insight on frame jig table that I can turn into a wing fan table?
What is a wing fan?
mike mcs repair liked this post
im guessing he meant fab. adam a close to level floor and 2 purpose duty saw horses work just fine. built mine on sawhorses and a table never even entered my mind. just wanted to add i just screwed a piece of plywood to the back of one of them for the washout, after things were to the set together point.
Last edited by tempdoug; 12-03-2019 at 01:19 PM.
Logical, I have used the term wing build table so I did not catch the needed correction.
Table I have used for many years, two sheets of ¾ MDF over good 16' 1x6 framework with a skin of thin ply on the bottom. The framework was three 1 by's.
One edge of the table had some overhang, the other was flush to allow simple attachment of jigs.
The table was hinged on it's legs so you can tip it up to be vertical when needed.
I will be building a new one soon and might go with 1x8s.
Image quality is not great here since these are Polaroid shots from decades ago.
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moneyburner liked this post
Sorry fab table is correct. Autocorrect got me. I was thinking about the saw horse plan so I’m glad I’m not crazy on that one.
Here is my version of a long flat table. I build 'em with a pair of those built up floor beams and use particle board top which I can change out easily and cheap. At least two reasons I do it this way, 1. There is no such thing as flat plywood 2.There is no such thing as straight dimensional lumber. All opinion of course.
Cub junkie,
i agree with your statement of there isn’t any wood that is flat or true. My other plan was to build a 36” wide x 20’ steel table on casters and be able to square and shim everything to be as level as the shop floor. When it go to wing building I could cut ply wood to lay on top.
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