tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff
- Thread starter mike mcs repair
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courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
THE HVAC guy who powered up a mini split AC I installed, had a couple neat tools. One was a digital torque crescent/adjustable wrench, that made two different tones when the desired torque was nearly reached, and then reached. The other was a smart phone ap that worked with a pressure transducer, to wirelessly indicate pressure. 90 today out, 70 in!
jimboflying
MEMBER
I was welding rudder hinges on when I found that I needed to ream them out because of some distortion. There was no way to line up the drill without the drill chuck deflecting the angel of the drill bit. I decided to braze a socket onto the end of the drill so that I could hook a 1/4” universal joint onto the end of the drill bit and then turn the the assembly by hand or with the electric drill. It worked well.
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I was having trouble collapsing lifters in a small continental, so I used this method. Put cylinder on TDC and then use a dial indicator and a wedge to put pressure, it took about 2-3 minutes for the lifter to collapse. When I took the wedge out it would pump right back up...I used a screw driver for my wedge. Tim
I was having trouble collapsing lifters in a small continental, so I used this method. Put cylinder on TDC and then use a dial indicator and a wedge to put pressure, it took about 2-3 minutes for the lifter to collapse. When I took the wedge out it would pump right back up...I used a screw driver for my wedge. Tim
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jimboflying
MEMBER
I decided to make a 2X72 belt grinder from You Tube internet plans. I added a small wheel set with various sizes to be able to fishmouth tubes. Belts with various materials and grits are available. These grinders are commonly used to make knives. It seems to work well for this purpose as well.
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cubpilot2
SPONSOR
Anchorage Alaska
Fuselage rotisserie
I know that the use of these is nothing new and that several Design ideas have been submitted here, so why not add one more.
For my recent 18A restoration I felt a need to make life a bit easier. My older age is showing me that I don’t fit into the jungle gym for welding near as easy as my memory tells me.
Being able to rotate the frame is essential but to also be able to adjust its height is a game changer!
Keeping this thing simple, easy to operate and build on a budget, along with being able to dismantle for storage was the goal.
The photos are self explanatory for fabrication. Vertical adjustments are quickly made using two 1/4 ton CM chain hoists which have worked great.
The frame work attaching to the front bulkhead can be repositioned for balance changes by drilling two more holes for the cross member attachment. FYI. The rotational balance point for a bare frame is almost dead center for this one. As components are added you will want to be able to adjust.
The framework is simple square steel tubing and has shown to be very stable in all directions. The clamp used for the brake prevents the separation of the rotator. Not having wheels adds to stability but I may add something later if needed.
The rear support has no locking mechanism but is also vertically adjustable. Separation is prevented with a bolt in the shaft. (Not shown)
Each end needs to have a double hinged attachment to work properly. I made this with two different types as I already had one made.
I use a TIG with foot pedal control and with this setup being able to find a comfortable position is a huge blessing!
I know that the use of these is nothing new and that several Design ideas have been submitted here, so why not add one more.
For my recent 18A restoration I felt a need to make life a bit easier. My older age is showing me that I don’t fit into the jungle gym for welding near as easy as my memory tells me.
Being able to rotate the frame is essential but to also be able to adjust its height is a game changer!
Keeping this thing simple, easy to operate and build on a budget, along with being able to dismantle for storage was the goal.
The photos are self explanatory for fabrication. Vertical adjustments are quickly made using two 1/4 ton CM chain hoists which have worked great.
The frame work attaching to the front bulkhead can be repositioned for balance changes by drilling two more holes for the cross member attachment. FYI. The rotational balance point for a bare frame is almost dead center for this one. As components are added you will want to be able to adjust.
The framework is simple square steel tubing and has shown to be very stable in all directions. The clamp used for the brake prevents the separation of the rotator. Not having wheels adds to stability but I may add something later if needed.
The rear support has no locking mechanism but is also vertically adjustable. Separation is prevented with a bolt in the shaft. (Not shown)
Each end needs to have a double hinged attachment to work properly. I made this with two different types as I already had one made.
I use a TIG with foot pedal control and with this setup being able to find a comfortable position is a huge blessing!
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courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
Got one of these a couple days ago, and am impressed with it's quality. It will be my plane's air source, onboard at all times. It doesn't sound tinny when running, more like a real air compressor, just a lot smaller. under 3 pounds all up weight, including a storage bag and accessories. EPAuto 12V DC Portable Air Compressor Pump, Digital Tire Inflator
Good luck with that compressor, I would not want to try to inflate a car tire all the way up with it. Out of curiosity, how long is the reach of the cord & hose?
If one has a desire for a portable compressor that you can trust you might look into Viair compressors. These are tools, not toys.
If one has a desire for a portable compressor that you can trust you might look into Viair compressors. These are tools, not toys.
cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
Make a rod/dowel a little longer then your push rod with a 1/32 wire centered on the end about half a inch long. Remove the pushrod from the engine and insert your new tool rod wire end first. Jiggle it around till the wire goes thru the hole in the center of the cup on top of the lifter. Depress the tool with some light pressure and the wire will depress the valve in the top of the hydrolic unit releasing the pressure
Glenn
courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
I'm not sure which Viair model you are referring too, but their smallest model, the 70P, appears to be very similar to the one I got. Same exact CFM even. 1.06. Same accessories also. NOT that I did a lot of comparison shopping in advance or anything, which was all the more surprising to find it more then a toy. I like the auto shut off if it overheats, and also the digital pressure set buttons, with a digital gauge, that auto shuts off when that pressure is reached.
I can get off the ground with 2-2.5 pounds in my 29" Airstreaks, (Light plane) I'm not trying to blow up a truck tire to 85 PSI, or a 35" ABW even, this ought to suffice for my modest needs OK. Now, after buying it, and reading a few reviews on it, I like it even more. About 9' of fairly heavy gauge 2 conductor, and 2.5' of airline. I've landed a lot of sharp rocky ridges and have never had a tire issue yet, now that I am "aired up" (I also finally got around to putting together a decent patch kit) I full expect that to change, Murphey's Law. Keeping the tire pressure low, 3.5 pounds max for me anyway, seems to be the best way to not have an issue, even if it extends the takeoff roll a bit, and for sure makes it harder to push out of the hangar.
I can get off the ground with 2-2.5 pounds in my 29" Airstreaks, (Light plane) I'm not trying to blow up a truck tire to 85 PSI, or a 35" ABW even, this ought to suffice for my modest needs OK. Now, after buying it, and reading a few reviews on it, I like it even more. About 9' of fairly heavy gauge 2 conductor, and 2.5' of airline. I've landed a lot of sharp rocky ridges and have never had a tire issue yet, now that I am "aired up" (I also finally got around to putting together a decent patch kit) I full expect that to change, Murphey's Law. Keeping the tire pressure low, 3.5 pounds max for me anyway, seems to be the best way to not have an issue, even if it extends the takeoff roll a bit, and for sure makes it harder to push out of the hangar.
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
Still practicing and learning anodizing a few years later. Getting some consistent results or errors. The one item is a cleco like fastener for installing firewall/boot cowl. Much nicer/less babysitting with using the electric kettles. The other photos are making titanium springs to attach the aluminum parts. Anyone got suggestions??
Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
they won't ship to alaska.....
ended up getting the supplies out of canada... (origin of USA ....)
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
well actually they quoted me over $900 to ship 200 or $300 worth of stuff.. mostly empty buckets and 2 LBS of dry chemicals... neat company, neat products.. but useless to me...
I think I have all I need now... just need to practice more..
jimboflying
MEMBER
Looks great. Very nice color. The problems I have had is getting the same color saturation on different batches or sizes. Any suggestions?
courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
For others living with the hardships of having to go outside to get to the hangar, just to plug in the electric pre heater. Or, to plug in the block heater on your tractor. In my case, overnight drifts can make this a pain, getting booted up just to start preheating, before you've had your coffee. Technology has once again made our life easier. No more wasted power by using a timer or just leaving things pre heating all the time, no more partially pre heated starts because you were too lazy to trek out to the pole barn or hangar and get things started. I have two of these, both about 97' away, and will be getting a third. One for my car's 1500 watt cabin heater, in it's unheated pole barn. One for the Kubota in it's shed, which was a bit out of the remote's range, but a 50' extension cord solved that. The third will be for the hangar and the 200 watt pad heaters on the Rotax's case. The benefits or thorough pre heating all of our equipment is well known, these make it easy.
I don't think these are a new thing, but they are to me anyway! I have a 15 watt witness bulb slaved to the same circuit, so I get visual confirmation the load is on. Right now, I haven't left the house (20 degrees and windy) but when I get in the car to head to work shortly, it'll be mid 60's, the steering wheel won't be ice cold, and the seats rock hard, due to a 2 hr. cabin pre heat. The best tool I've bought in a while, one I'll use every day this winter. https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Fos...ocphy=9029427&hvtargid=pla-348578405256&psc=1
I don't think these are a new thing, but they are to me anyway! I have a 15 watt witness bulb slaved to the same circuit, so I get visual confirmation the load is on. Right now, I haven't left the house (20 degrees and windy) but when I get in the car to head to work shortly, it'll be mid 60's, the steering wheel won't be ice cold, and the seats rock hard, due to a 2 hr. cabin pre heat. The best tool I've bought in a while, one I'll use every day this winter. https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Fos...ocphy=9029427&hvtargid=pla-348578405256&psc=1
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hotrod180
FRIEND
Port Townsend, WA
I just used a tool I made up the other day,
to pull the two halves of the wheel together when mounting a tire.
Seen similar used for bushwheels, but even 850's are a PITA to mount when juggling the wheel halves & brake rotor.
Stupid simple-- basically two big-ass washers & a piece of 3/8" all thread.
Couldn't find washers with a big enough OD,
so I ended up welding a couple washers together to create heavy duty 3/8" fender washers.
to pull the two halves of the wheel together when mounting a tire.
Seen similar used for bushwheels, but even 850's are a PITA to mount when juggling the wheel halves & brake rotor.
Stupid simple-- basically two big-ass washers & a piece of 3/8" all thread.
Couldn't find washers with a big enough OD,
so I ended up welding a couple washers together to create heavy duty 3/8" fender washers.
THANKS! Used that trick yesterday on my 0-360, it worked slick. I've used my hands, but they always wind up looking like a pile of hamburger afterward.
Thanks. cubscout
I have a similar set up except I turned a couple hardwood inserts on my lathe that fit into the bearing hole and have a larger diameter section that rides outside the bearing hole. Keeps the threaded rod centered in the hole and nothing gets scratched by it or the big washer.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
They work on Bushwheels as well. Great for stacking airplanes right where you want one.
courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
I've had a pair of those for years I've used for everything EXCEPT for what they were designed for, moving cars, and I guess planes, sideways. Then I wanted to get my 29' span S-7S into my shop, with it's 17' wide door, easy peasy.
courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
This deburring tool link came up on a forum for building the RANS S-21, for deburring when you can't get to the other side. So simple, but new to me anyway, looks interesting. https://cogsdill.com/products/deburring-tools/burraway
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
They work great. My former job was doing heavy sheet metal work in a big warbird shop and these were very handy. I presently use one when installing Performance STOL Flaps for deburring the hole drilled in the bottom of the flap hangers that the false spar impedes getting in from the top side.
they work good when building stainless 80% 1911 frames too...
