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tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

mike mcs repair said:
Few more pictures starting to use it. And had to let girlfriend try it with her beads. Think I’ll need a second one.

Andonstar 5 inch Screen 1080P... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076XYRCYM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


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About 20 years ago, my dad took an old handheld video camera and an old commodore monitor I gave him and made a device like that so my mom could continue readings with her macular degeneration. It had a wood and metal pipe stand you could move up and down. It was great for getting a close look at things and cost almost nothing, but it did take up a lot more space!


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im guessing he meant fab. adam a close to level floor and 2 purpose duty saw horses work just fine. built mine on sawhorses and a table never even entered my mind. just wanted to add i just screwed a piece of plywood to the back of one of them for the washout, after things were to the set together point.
 
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Logical, I have used the term wing build table so I did not catch the needed correction.

Table I have used for many years, two sheets of ¾ MDF over good 16' 1x6 framework with a skin of thin ply on the bottom. The framework was three 1 by's.
One edge of the table had some overhang, the other was flush to allow simple attachment of jigs.
The table was hinged on it's legs so you can tip it up to be vertical when needed.
I will be building a new one soon and might go with 1x8s.
Image quality is not great here since these are Polaroid shots from decades ago.
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Sorry fab table is correct. Autocorrect got me. I was thinking about the saw horse plan so I’m glad I’m not crazy on that one.
 
Here is my version of a long flat table. I build 'em with a pair of those built up floor beams and use particle board top which I can change out easily and cheap. At least two reasons I do it this way, 1. There is no such thing as flat plywood 2.There is no such thing as straight dimensional lumber. All opinion of course.
 

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Cub junkie,
i agree with your statement of there isn’t any wood that is flat or true. My other plan was to build a 36” wide x 20’ steel table on casters and be able to square and shim everything to be as level as the shop floor. When it go to wing building I could cut ply wood to lay on top.
 
I also made a work table just like Cub Junkie’s except I made adjustable feet to level it to the world instead of the floor. I used it for building floats and a fuselage. I liked the wood surface so you can screw fixtures to it for holding the parts in place for welding and fabrication. I found saw horses worked fine for the wings since the spars are solid and straight.
 
When I poured my floor slab in the shop, I knew where the main bench would be, so I set J bolts in the concrete while it set up. Then I framed up what amounted to bench height walls, bolted them down, then sheeted the vert walls with 3/4" ply. Then I shot in the final top surface with a transit and a straight edge, flat/flat, and it has a replaceable top surface to account for wear. I always like to extend the top of any bench a few inches past the sides, in my case (solid as the thing is) this allows me to clamp on and use the bench as a deadman for anything that needs to be steadied or pulled. A smaller rollaround bench built at the same exact height, is a companion piece. Built in drawers on one side, of course. And it sits away from the wall, not up against it, so i can walk 360 around whatever's on it. I got this all built, and realized afterwards it is a dead ringer for the way my father had his shop bench set up.
 
A few types of benches in my hangar. The first is a 10' section of bowling alley on a steel frame with leveling feet. I can lift it with a floor jack and move it with piano dollys, set it down and re level it anywhere in the shop that has space.
I will be making sets of drawers for the empty space under the top eventually. I used levelers from https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/home
bowling alley bench.jpg

The second type is lighter weight and transportable thanks to wheels from a Baker scaffold. They can be locked so they don't roll or swivel. The top is a fire door, steel in this picture. I have some wood fire doors that I have used two of them on these benches. The heights are the same so they can be butted together and used as a single large surface. I will also make a cabinet and drawers for infill on these.

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Wayne
 

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These WAGO 221 lever lock connectors are handy for roughing in electrical work without committing to a crimp or solder connection. Particularly helpful to me lately for testing audio and RS232 connections. They’re reusable and do no damage to fine stranded wire. Good for 24 through 12 AWG.

I believe these are also permitted for use in residential AC wiring in place of the typical twist wire nuts. There are some cool videos on youtube showing destructive testing by overloading with hundreds of amps. Surprisingly strong physical connection too.

I don’t know if I would trust them for a long term installation in a high vibration environment, but they’re good enough and cheap enough for ground based testing.

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Electrical split bolts are great for temp rigging of control cables, ski rigging, etc. They hold good, and if you first slip the nicopress on you can crimp it before releasing the s bolt, which won't deform or hurt the cable. Old hang gliding/ultralight building trick, which are nothing BUT cable, I used to buy 3/32" 7x7 by the multiple thousand foot reels.
 
courierguy said:
Electrical split bolts are great for temp rigging of control cables, ski rigging, etc. They hold good, and if you first slip the nicopress on you can crimp it before releasing the s bolt, which won't deform or hurt the cable. Old hang gliding/ultralight building trick, which are nothing BUT cable, I used to buy 3/32" 7x7 by the multiple thousand foot reels.
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Can you post a picture of what you're talking about? I've never heard of "electrical split bolts" before, and I'm having a hard time figuring this one out...
Thanks!
 
Buddy using this to temp change glare shield mounted GPS antenna from white to black.
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I have found this tool to be helpful. It is quiet, powerful, reversible, and well made. 22676E35-F204-4409-8DE5-657E4081EF5E.jpg
 

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flybynite said:
I needed a clamp to hold a cable so I could install a Nicopress. The available cable vises are very expensive and you need four hands to get everything aligned while holding the whole thing steady without the vise, so I made this out of some scrap 1/2" square tube brazed to a piece of 14 gauge strap, a 3/8" hardware store bolt and nut.

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I used a chisel to form a small indent on the inside flat of the square tube to hold the cable. The bolt has a slight hollow in the end from the thread forming process. I only tighten it finger tight and it has seemed adequate to hold everything together while squeezing the clamp. The vise is a 2" Wilton.

There is a bit of room to put a tab or link in the eye also.

Wayne
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Thank You !
 
Needed a tool cart. Looked and looked, but really didn’t know what I wanted. Found one on Amazon Prime so I gave it a shot. Liked it so much I bought a second one. Handy in the hangar, for sure.

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Just saw CamTo 12’s question. My buddy got the suggestion to use the ArmorAll product from an avionics shop, which apparently use it often with no adverse effects. Don’t know why he didn’t want to use flat black paint.

In my friends case, it was to cover a white GPS antenna added for ADS-B; he didn’t want to mount it externally and run a wire around things.
 
stewartb said:
Needed a tool cart. Looked and looked, but really didn’t know what I wanted. Found one on Amazon Prime so I gave it a shot. Liked it so much I bought a second one. Handy in the hangar, for sure.

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Own 2 carts and bought 3 more for the avionics shop. Harbor Freight units work for $99, buy the bigger ones from Uline are excellent and worth the money.


Transmitted from my FlightPhone on fingers...
 
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