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Thread: tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

  1. #641
    jimboflying's Avatar
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    I also made a work table just like Cub Junkie’s except I made adjustable feet to level it to the world instead of the floor. I used it for building floats and a fuselage. I liked the wood surface so you can screw fixtures to it for holding the parts in place for welding and fabrication. I found saw horses worked fine for the wings since the spars are solid and straight.
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  2. #642
    courierguy's Avatar
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    When I poured my floor slab in the shop, I knew where the main bench would be, so I set J bolts in the concrete while it set up. Then I framed up what amounted to bench height walls, bolted them down, then sheeted the vert walls with 3/4" ply. Then I shot in the final top surface with a transit and a straight edge, flat/flat, and it has a replaceable top surface to account for wear. I always like to extend the top of any bench a few inches past the sides, in my case (solid as the thing is) this allows me to clamp on and use the bench as a deadman for anything that needs to be steadied or pulled. A smaller rollaround bench built at the same exact height, is a companion piece. Built in drawers on one side, of course. And it sits away from the wall, not up against it, so i can walk 360 around whatever's on it. I got this all built, and realized afterwards it is a dead ringer for the way my father had his shop bench set up.

  3. #643
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    A few types of benches in my hangar. The first is a 10' section of bowling alley on a steel frame with leveling feet. I can lift it with a floor jack and move it with piano dollys, set it down and re level it anywhere in the shop that has space.
    I will be making sets of drawers for the empty space under the top eventually. I used levelers from https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/home
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    The second type is lighter weight and transportable thanks to wheels from a Baker scaffold. They can be locked so they don't roll or swivel. The top is a fire door, steel in this picture. I have some wood fire doors that I have used two of them on these benches. The heights are the same so they can be butted together and used as a single large surface. I will also make a cabinet and drawers for infill on these.

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    Wayne

  4. #644
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    These WAGO 221 lever lock connectors are handy for roughing in electrical work without committing to a crimp or solder connection. Particularly helpful to me lately for testing audio and RS232 connections. They’re reusable and do no damage to fine stranded wire. Good for 24 through 12 AWG.

    I believe these are also permitted for use in residential AC wiring in place of the typical twist wire nuts. There are some cool videos on youtube showing destructive testing by overloading with hundreds of amps. Surprisingly strong physical connection too.

    I don’t know if I would trust them for a long term installation in a high vibration environment, but they’re good enough and cheap enough for ground based testing.

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  5. #645
    courierguy's Avatar
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    Electrical split bolts are great for temp rigging of control cables, ski rigging, etc. They hold good, and if you first slip the nicopress on you can crimp it before releasing the s bolt, which won't deform or hurt the cable. Old hang gliding/ultralight building trick, which are nothing BUT cable, I used to buy 3/32" 7x7 by the multiple thousand foot reels.
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  6. #646

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    Quote Originally Posted by courierguy View Post
    Electrical split bolts are great for temp rigging of control cables, ski rigging, etc. They hold good, and if you first slip the nicopress on you can crimp it before releasing the s bolt, which won't deform or hurt the cable. Old hang gliding/ultralight building trick, which are nothing BUT cable, I used to buy 3/32" 7x7 by the multiple thousand foot reels.
    Can you post a picture of what you're talking about? I've never heard of "electrical split bolts" before, and I'm having a hard time figuring this one out...
    Thanks!
    Jim Parker
    '65 Champion 7ECA - Flying
    ?? Bearhawk Patrol - Building
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  7. #647
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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  8. #648
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    Here is a picture.Click image for larger version. 

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    Steve Pierce

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  9. #649

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    Gee, that was quick! Thanks, guys. Very helpful. I will definitely use this one!
    Jim Parker
    '65 Champion 7ECA - Flying
    ?? Bearhawk Patrol - Building

  10. #650
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    Buddy using this to temp change glare shield mounted GPS antenna from white to black.
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  11. #651
    Eddie Foy's Avatar
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    Bondic. Amazing stuff. Dentists use it. I just fixed a plastic piece with it.

    https://youtu.be/xTsfwL61CR8
    "Put out my hand and touched the face of God!"
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  12. #652
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    Quote Originally Posted by tedwaltman1 View Post
    Buddy using this to temp change glare shield mounted GPS antenna from white to black.
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    How’d it work? Any loss in antenna performance? Why’d he only temporarily change it?

  13. #653
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Here is a picture.Click image for larger version. 

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    What is the red tool in your box ?

    Also, I can't find the thread or pictures that show people's inventions for holding a nicopress snug before crimping. Any ideas ?

  14. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonnyo View Post
    the thread or pictures that show people's inventions for holding a nicopress snug before crimping. Any ideas ?
    This thread around #300.
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  15. #655
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    I have found this tool to be helpful. It is quiet, powerful, reversible, and well made. Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #656
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonnyo View Post
    What is the red tool in your box ?
    Looks like a Knipex cable cutter of some kind.

    I just received my set of Knipex parallel jaw pliers today. Really nice tools--something I've wanted for a long time.
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  17. #657
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    Quote Originally Posted by flybynite View Post
    I needed a clamp to hold a cable so I could install a Nicopress. The available cable vises are very expensive and you need four hands to get everything aligned while holding the whole thing steady without the vise, so I made this out of some scrap 1/2" square tube brazed to a piece of 14 gauge strap, a 3/8" hardware store bolt and nut.

    Attachment 17970 Attachment 17971 Attachment 17972 Attachment 17973


    I used a chisel to form a small indent on the inside flat of the square tube to hold the cable. The bolt has a slight hollow in the end from the thread forming process. I only tighten it finger tight and it has seemed adequate to hold everything together while squeezing the clamp. The vise is a 2" Wilton.

    There is a bit of room to put a tab or link in the eye also.

    Wayne


    Thank You !

  18. #658

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Here is a picture.Click image for larger version. 

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    Sent from my SM-N900V usin
    The red handle tool is a Felco cable cutter. This particular one made by Knipex.

    If you see any tool that looks intereseting that is made by Knipex, buy it, you will not regret doing so.

  19. #659

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    Needed a tool cart. Looked and looked, but really didn’t know what I wanted. Found one on Amazon Prime so I gave it a shot. Liked it so much I bought a second one. Handy in the hangar, for sure.

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  20. #660
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    Just saw CamTo 12’s question. My buddy got the suggestion to use the ArmorAll product from an avionics shop, which apparently use it often with no adverse effects. Don’t know why he didn’t want to use flat black paint.

    In my friends case, it was to cover a white GPS antenna added for ADS-B; he didn’t want to mount it externally and run a wire around things.
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  21. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Needed a tool cart. Looked and looked, but really didn’t know what I wanted. Found one on Amazon Prime so I gave it a shot. Liked it so much I bought a second one. Handy in the hangar, for sure.

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    Own 2 carts and bought 3 more for the avionics shop. Harbor Freight units work for $99, buy the bigger ones from Uline are excellent and worth the money.


    Transmitted from my FlightPhone on fingers...

  22. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieN View Post
    The red handle tool is a Felco cable cutter. This particular one made by Knipex.

    If you see any tool that looks interesting that is made by Knipex, buy it, you will not regret doing so.
    I had a Felco cable cutter for years, and somehow lost it at one point. I replaced it with a lesser brand cutter (cheaper) as at that time my need for cutting lots of cable had reduced. The lesser cutter, which I still have, while it works OK, is nothing like the fine quality of the Felco. They are the gold standard of cable cutters. As usual, the more expensive tool provide the greater long term satisfaction, big surprise! Anything Knipex is a joy to use.
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  23. #663
    moneyburner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Here is a picture.Click image for larger version. 

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    Cleco pliers work pretty well to hold the small thimbles in place while you crimp. The open jaw on the tool goes around the narrow end of the thimble and the other goes at the top. Split bolt looks better for a wider range of sizes.
    Quidquid Latine dictum sit, altum videtur
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  24. #664
    supercub's Avatar
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    I use the cleco pliers to hold the thimble in place and then a piece of hose that I cut a slit in length wise to slip around the cables extending from the nicro press. The hose protects the cables. I use vise grips to squeeze the rubber tube onto the cables which keep them from slipping while squeezing the nico press. It takes very little pressure from the vise grips to keep cables in place, hence I've had no problem with damaging cables.

  25. #665
    courierguy's Avatar
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    I became acquainted with split bolts, as previously mentioned, through rigging numerous (multiple dozens) of hang gliders and ultralights. Years later, now into "real" airplanes, I got into a sideline business of solar energy, which involves dealing with large gauge stranded copper wire. It turns out, these split bolts make pretty good wiring clamps also, who'd of guessed it, and I already had a large stash of them! On that subject: a 3/32" nicopress copper sleeve, is ideal for making a electrically conductive and mechanically secure crimp on 10 gauge stranded copper wire, using a standard nicropress crimping tool. I had to butt heads with a state electrical inspector about that once on a large solar job, it wasn't on his list of recognized ways to do it, and the regs have changed since then, but he agreed it worked great.

  26. #666
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonnyo View Post
    What is the red tool in your box ?

    Also, I can't find the thread or pictures that show people's inventions for holding a nicopress snug before crimping. Any ideas ?
    One is a turn barrel tool for turning and the other is my Knipex cable cutters. I have a hand held tool that holds the cable in the eye while you crimp the nicropress. It has a thumbwheel so you can adjust and tighten the tension with one hand. It is loaned to a friend but I will get a picture. Avery use to sell them but the guy who made them quit and Avery hasn't tooled up to make his own.
    Steve Pierce

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  27. #667
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    These are high quality and cut cable cleanly. I bought this from this seller 2 years ago. Over $100 new

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F223748791653

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  28. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    One is a turn barrel tool for turning and the other is my Knipex cable cutters. I have a hand held tool that holds the cable in the eye while you crimp the nicropress. It has a thumbwheel so you can adjust and tighten the tension with one hand. It is loaned to a friend but I will get a picture. Avery use to sell them but the guy who made them quit and Avery hasn't tooled up to make his own.
    Wish they would, it’s a pretty handy tool


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  29. #669
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    One is a turn barrel tool for turning and the other is my Knipex cable cutters. I have a hand held tool that holds the cable in the eye while you crimp the nicropress. It has a thumbwheel so you can adjust and tighten the tension with one hand. It is loaned to a friend but I will get a picture. Avery use to sell them but the guy who made them quit and Avery hasn't tooled up to make his own.
    https://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...470#post615470

    I remembered posting a picture of this a while back:

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  30. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    great idea!
    I think i will order a steel one of each size and get them cut and ready to keep on hand...

    I must need another cup of coffee, because I can't picture where the application for this would be. Sorry for the dumb question.

    Jonny o
    Last edited by Jonnyo; Yesterday at 01:21 PM. Reason: Reply didn't retain original post.

  31. #671
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Stud remover for broken fitting (threads left in place).

    Web
    Life's tough . . . wear a cup.

  32. #672
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Not sure what you are doing but I got these from Wicks years ago as self sealing for oiling tubes. Do t know the part number but can send you some.
    Attachment 43325
    https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ndpoprivet.php


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  33. #673
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonnyo View Post
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    I must need another cup of coffee, because I can't picture where the application for this would be. Sorry for the dumb question.

    Jonny o
    i truncated his post from 4-27-15 here's full text

    post 411 https://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...l=1#post628481

    irishfield
    Well todays learning curve.. I'm sure someone has thought of this before but I offer:

    I got a little hurried to get my amphibs on today and of course on the 4th and final hydraulic line I managed to cross thread the nut on the fitting... just the first start thread. The tube nut was fine but nothing I tried would let me get the nut started on that flare fitting. Even my old riffle file trick didn't work. Light bulb went off that I needed to tackle the thread from the other end.

    I grabbed a bulkhead nut from the shelves... cut it in half with the hack saw and then placed each half back together around the rear section of the fitting threads, put a box end wrench on it to hold the halves together and turned it OFF the fitting. Worked like a charm and I could hand run the tube nut onto the fitting again.
    i also forgot what this was about

  34. #674

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    Whenever I shorten a bolt I put on a couple of nuts first, but that was sneaky!
    What's a go-around?
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