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tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

A good video regarding selection of safety glasses. I was looking for a pair with bifocal correction greater than 2.5 and found the Elvex on Amazon with a 3.0 diopter correction. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJMEJ4

They didn't get included in this video, but they have excellent clarity and who cares what they look like. I cannot imagine putting any glasses to the test as shown in the video.



Wayne
 
I kept burning my finger through the hole in my glove. Since I couldn’t go to the store for new ones i decided to patch the one I had. I knew that Super Glue was good for glueing skin together so I figured it might work well on leather. I cut a patch from another glove, put glue around the edges, put a rubber glove on my hand before inserting it in the leather glove, and then applied the patch. It has worked out well and I have done it on other gloves with good results. A tip I learned was to make certain the edges were well bonded and not too much glue otherwise to keep it from getting too stiff. The rubber glove is to prevent you from glueing the glove to your finger and of course is removed after the glue sets.
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A slotted socket & nutdriver handle, for tightening those thumbscrew-style Continental intake clamps.
Easier to use than pliers, plus can add extensions and/or universal for hard to reach places.
Thanks Stewart, for posting a pic of your setup on FB.

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I was looking for a pair with bifocal correction greater than 2.5 and found the Elvex on Amazon with a 3.0 diopter correction. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJMEJ4

They didn't get included in this video, but they have excellent clarity and who cares what they look like. I cannot imagine putting any glasses to the test as shown in the video.

Looks like your recommendation caused a run on them! "Not available."

I used to get bifocal safety glasses at the local hardware store. Now I can't find them anywhere.
 
Cam-lock pliers works good to change some of the o-rings on the Curtis/saf-air fuel drainsIMG_1132.jpg
 

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Cam-lock pliers works good to change some of the o-rings on the Curtis/saf-air fuel drains


Don't forget this tool, critical to keeping gasoline out of your armpit when messing with the fuel drains.
(wrap it around your wrist)

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Building another 8 stackable wing stands for current customer. Took more detailed photos if anyone wants to build a set. All 8 stack to about 3 feet high when not in use. I have a pattern if anyone local wants to borrow it. Just need to add the padding Width depends on the metal flashing you use

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Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 

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A slotted socket & nutdriver handle, for tightening those thumbscrew-style Continental intake clamps.
Easier to use than pliers, plus can add extensions and/or universal for hard to reach places. ....

Oil change yesterday, my first opportunity to use my new clamp tightening nutdriver.
Worked great, had a couple spots where I had to add an extension.
Unfortunately, there's a couple clamps (on the induction Y behind the engine)
where the clamps are placed as to optimize tightening with pliers.
PITA to re-place them to optimize for nutdriver,
as it would involve taking the clamp off & turning it over, so I left them for now.
Maybe next time I'll be feeling more ambitious. :oops:
 
"Form-A-Funnel" - lots of different sizes and prices. Spruce stocks them. I have one but never remember to use it before I've already made a mess.
 
I needed to drill a 1” and 2” hole in plexiglass. I used blue masking tape applied to the backside of the plexiglass and also to the wooden block. I used a small roller to make certain it had good contact. I then applied CA superglue to the tape on the plexiglass and spray accelerator to the tape on the wood block. You then flip the 49E1569B-737E-4056-A7BF-EAD992DC96B5.jpgSide with the glue onto the tape with the accelerator for a nearly instant bond. It holds very well and is easy to clean up after the drilling since you just pull up on the part and the tape separates off one of the surfaces. I then used an annular cutter on the small hole and a 2” holesaw on the larger one. I kept the cutters flooded with WD40 while cutting and was very pleased with the results. There was no chipping, cracking or melting involved.
 

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some interesting videos i came across .... now i need to make some rubber pads like this... neat not having to make rotating parts to over bend, for one off, low count..... i Like the holes and being able to fill them to change it's behavior....





on another note... https://www.swagoffroad.com has added a few new types of press brake kits since I last looked.... been on my wish list for a while... could use the finger brake setup with the above ideas....
 
Here are pictures of my rib repair tool, patent pending. I have the parts to build more, figured there would not be much interest. Tim
 

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some interesting videos i came across .... now i need to make some rubber pads like this... neat not having to make rotating parts to over bend, for one off, low count..... i Like the holes and being able to fill them to change it's behavior....





on another note... https://www.swagoffroad.com has added a few new types of press brake kits since I last looked.... been on my wish list for a while... could use the finger brake setup with the above ideas....
Look at the German company called Trumpf, they had some of the best cnc press brakes on the market. We had 85 ton 6’ with quick change dies and 6 axis backstops. Impressive!
 
For those who have a Narco Com 810 TSO radio:
I think it's a pretty good radio, but I hate the spring-clip retention feature--
another engineer's wet dream idea that just doesn't work worth a darn.
I really wish Narco had just used a long screw like they did on their AT series transponders.

I've had 2 of these Com 810's, neither of which still had the factory removal tool.
And both of which had the RH clip damaged.
My removal method is:
remove the tuning knobs (4 tiny set screws),
remove the face plate (4 plastic screws).
then grind the teeth off a hacksaw blade & use it as a slim-jim to disengage the RH spring clip.
Works great, just a little time consuming.

Hopefully this will save someone some aggravation.
 
Both of the Com 810's I've owned had the RH clip severely bent,
as in it would not release...whether I used a welding rod, allen wrench, slim jim, or whatever.
This was once in the airplane, and the second time just on the workbench.
The tray is made up of three pieces of extruded aluminum,
I found that the easiest way to remove the radio from the tray in this situation
is to remove the three screws holding the right rear corner of the tray together.
Radio comes right out then, at least on the bench.
Haven't had occasion to try it in the airplane,
but even then the tray should spread apart far enough to release the radio.
 
Hey there,

does anyone have a pattern of a protective sheet for the windshield of a PA-18 or does know where to get it?

Thanx anybody
DemonTed
 
Sharing my version of a wing rotator using Honda ATV CV joints...
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
I used CV joints from a Honda Civic to make my fuselage rotisserie. CAUTION! I found out that CV joints can pull apart. My rotisserie is connected to the opposite end by tubing at the base. This tubing telescopes and is pinned so it can be used for different fuselages. I was changing the attachment at the tail and removed a pin in the telescoping tube so I could adjust the length for the new attachment. I needed to roll the whole thing out of the shop to make room for something else and when the wheels on one end hit a gap in the concrete pad the ends spread apart far enough for one of the CV joints to separate. Fortunately the rubber boot was in good shape and supported the load long enough for me to get a hold of it. FB45EDE5-8DAF-47EE-93DE-B65CEF4DFEDC.jpg
 

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Piece of welding rod inserted on each side, just deep enough to disengage the clips. Web

Thanks for the tip. I never could find anything that would fit in the hole in the faceplate.
A friend of mine came up with some 3/32" stainless TIG filler rod--
I cut off about a 4" piece, with a handle bent on one end & the other end beveled.
I only need to insert it on the RH (locking) side, works great.

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