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tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

I needed to curve some round tubing without flattening it so I went to HF and got a ring roller. The tube i was using was bigger than the grooves so I had to grind them to the correct form. The current rollers were hardened so they had to be ground. You mark the begin and the end of the curve on the tube and then about 30 trips through the roller created the desired curve. It is important to keep the tube in the same orientation each time so a marked line on the top and a vise grip help to keep the correct orientation.
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Does anyone use a laser cutter for making Cub parts? Lots of kinds to choose from but what size and model works out best?
 
jimboflying said:
Does anyone use a laser cutter for making Cub parts? Lots of kinds to choose from but what size and model works out best?
Click to expand...
Depend on if it’s primary structural aluminum or steel, aluminum was not allowed by the faa for Boeing as a way to cut primary because of haz and potential for cracks. Steel is allowed for some structural parts that are welded. Trumpf is made in Germany and can cut 1200 inches per minute in .5” thick material. Other manufacturers are faster and slower, liquid n2 is used in large quantities for many lasers… so you need to factor those costs in also.
 
jimboflying said:
Does anyone use a laser cutter for making Cub parts? Lots of kinds to choose from but what size and model works out best?
Click to expand...

I job out my steel parts to local waterjet shop. For anything aluminum I use my CNC router. Not super fast but makes super clean parts.
 
Instrument Hole Punch ATS 123-C , Spruce P/N 12-02743 ,
apparently it “punches “ nice clean panel holes , both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4 .
curious if anybody here has used one and if so would you recommend it ?
 
umwminer said:
Instrument Hole Punch ATS 123-C , Spruce P/N 12-02743 ,
apparently it “punches “ nice clean panel holes , both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4 .
curious if anybody here has used one and if so would you recommend it ?
Click to expand...

Use one all the time.. works well.. couple it with a FAP 06 mount hole drill jig.. I use an old panel for marking out areas for instruments with adjustment knobs. I did have to replace the bolt since the one it came with wore out pretty quick.

Brian
 
Mine has given me years and years of good service but was made by Avery.
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umwminer said:
Instrument Hole Punch ATS 123-C , Spruce P/N 12-02743 ,
apparently it “punches “ nice clean panel holes , both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4 .
curious if anybody here has used one and if so would you recommend it ?
Click to expand...

Been using mine for years. Be sure to use nickel anti seize on the bolt threads to keep wear to a minimum.

Web
 
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1B89B8BE-4F1C-473B-9D4D-CEAAC61EC378.jpgHere is a bead roller modified for hand riveting. Frame is 1/2” x 8” flat bar with 7/8” slot. If you make your own, it would be nice to have a 24 1/2” throat.
 

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3CFDBD1F-F09F-47E3-89C1-2B0FAF526CA3.jpgThis is my tank top riveted with the above tool.
 

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Yes. .025 2024-T3. I tried to duplicate the Piper stiffener (which is spot welded to the tank top), but couldn’t get the edges to lay flat against the tank top when the stiffener was bent to match the tank top curve. My version of the stiffener was slightly curved by running it carefully through a sheet metal roller, and then I was able to hand bend it to match the rib profile. Incidentally, the stiffener around the tank cap is .025 or .032 5052 and was pressed with a tool I bought from Boeing Surplus close to 50 years ago! Thought it was a really cool tool when I bought it ($5) and finally found a use for it.
 
Now I’m trying to modify a standard vented cap (from John Deere [I am, after all, a retired farmer]) by adding a 1/4” spacer inside the cap, but my efforts are not getting me anywhere. The cap needs to sit higher on the tank so the paint doesn’t get scratched. The usual suppliers offer caps at around $100 each, but I am too impecunious to go that route. (At least not yet.) And, of course, I need each cap to have a snorkel. Any input would be deeply appreciated.
 
skywagon8a said:
I drilled a 1/4" hole in my caps, inserted a length of 1/4" copper tubing, soldered in place, then when installed on the tank bent forward as desired.
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That’s a good way to do it, thank you. But I need to get the cap 1/4” higher so it doesn’t scratch the paint on the tank cover.
 
Farmer Hank said:
That’s a good way to do it, thank you. But I need to get the cap 1/4” higher so it doesn’t scratch the paint on the tank cover.
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Why don't you just cut off the existing filler neck then weld in a spacer section to the desired dimension?
 
skywagon8a said:
Why don't you just cut off the existing filler neck then weld in a spacer section to the desired dimension?
Click to expand...
Thank you! I think you have sent me in the right direction. I’ve got a couple of necks here at the hangar. (Screwed into a flange makes it too high.) I think I can make a tool to expand the new neck to fit over the old neck and then JB Weld them together.
 
I needed to improve my wing rotor; the lock bolt I was using not only didn't lock well, it was cutting the tube everything rotates on. I came up with this simple set up. The pipe floor flange is bolted to the through pipe. The metal disk is an old plywood table saw blade with the teeth ground off. The clamp is a cheap C clamp screwed onto the post. The bigger disk gives better mechanical advantage and a much more positive stop. The wing is nicely rigid when locked; just the play in the U joint.

Marty57

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I can't figure this one out.... The marking at 45.5cm. It repeats every 45.5cm. I Know...., why do I have a metric tape?.... Because some of my stuff is metric based and it's alot easier to just read the tape when measuring rather than convert each time...

Regardless, not knowing what this mark is will drive me nuts if I cant figure it out. I've looked all over google and got nothing.... SC.Org always has the answer....

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Here’s a follow-up to my 10-07-2022 post. My friend who gave me the tanks found the original fuel caps, and that solved my problems
 
Grant said:
I can't figure this one out.... The marking at 45.5cm. It repeats every 45.5cm. I Know...., why do I have a metric tape?.... Because some of my stuff is metric based and it's alot easier to just read the tape when measuring rather than convert each time...

Regardless, not knowing what this mark is will drive me nuts if I cant figure it out. I've looked all over google and got nothing.... SC.Org always has the answer....

View attachment 64148
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Stud spacing for house framing purposes. They have them every 16" and also every 24" on " U.S. tapes, it saves the carpenter from having to do the math. Yeah, I know the conversion doesn't quite work out....but that's what the marks looks like to me.
 
courierguy said:
Stud spacing for house framing purposes. They have them every 16" and also every 24" on " U.S. tapes, it saves the carpenter from having to do the math. Yeah, I know the conversion doesn't quite work out....but that's what the marks looks like to me.
Click to expand...

It was solved... The Sun and Shaku are traditional Japanese measurements. these marks are hold-overs from traditional japanese standards (1.5 Shaku was apparently a standard like 16" on center or some other basic standard.) I have also found some japanese squaring tools that use Shaku Increments.

1 Sun = 3.03mm
1 Shaku = 10 Sun or 30.30cm
1.5 Shaku = 45.45cm

If you look closely, the makrk is just shy of 45.5 cm

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And if you have an old Mosin-Nagant 91/30 rifle, the rear sight is graduated in arshins NOT meters. Just sayin' . . . .

Web
 
C90DB051-750A-4F4F-98B7-33992044D74B.jpgI made this tool perhaps 40 years ago to make bulkheads for flaps and ailerons, and I’ve used it again recently for my 1986 SC clone. Half inch steel plate. I wish I could remember how I cut it out. Bulkheads are .025 5052 aluminum. You can make left and right bulkheads. Use a press and a little oil or grease.
 

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