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Thread: tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

  1. #841

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    I use a button on the tig as well. Its a different button, just tapped into the control wire, so pedal always stays hooked up. I wish I could figure out a way to switch between remote and panel from the torch. Always walking back over for that one!

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  2. #842
    jimboflying's Avatar
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    I needed to curve some round tubing without flattening it so I went to HF and got a ring roller. The tube i was using was bigger than the grooves so I had to grind them to the correct form. The current rollers were hardened so they had to be ground. You mark the begin and the end of the curve on the tube and then about 30 trips through the roller created the desired curve. It is important to keep the tube in the same orientation each time so a marked line on the top and a vise grip help to keep the correct orientation.
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    Thanks silflexer thanked for this post
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  3. #843
    jimboflying's Avatar
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    Does anyone use a laser cutter for making Cub parts? Lots of kinds to choose from but what size and model works out best?

  4. #844

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimboflying View Post
    Does anyone use a laser cutter for making Cub parts? Lots of kinds to choose from but what size and model works out best?
    Depend on if it’s primary structural aluminum or steel, aluminum was not allowed by the faa for Boeing as a way to cut primary because of haz and potential for cracks. Steel is allowed for some structural parts that are welded. Trumpf is made in Germany and can cut 1200 inches per minute in .5” thick material. Other manufacturers are faster and slower, liquid n2 is used in large quantities for many lasers… so you need to factor those costs in also.

  5. #845
    Southern Aero's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimboflying View Post
    Does anyone use a laser cutter for making Cub parts? Lots of kinds to choose from but what size and model works out best?
    I job out my steel parts to local waterjet shop. For anything aluminum I use my CNC router. Not super fast but makes super clean parts.
    ......... It doesn't cost any more to go first class! You just can't stay as long.

  6. #846

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    Instrument Hole Punch ATS 123-C , Spruce P/N 12-02743 ,
    apparently it “punches “ nice clean panel holes , both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4 .
    curious if anybody here has used one and if so would you recommend it ?

  7. #847
    Steve's Aircraft (Brian)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by umwminer View Post
    Instrument Hole Punch ATS 123-C , Spruce P/N 12-02743 ,
    apparently it “punches “ nice clean panel holes , both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4 .
    curious if anybody here has used one and if so would you recommend it ?
    Use one all the time.. works well.. couple it with a FAP 06 mount hole drill jig.. I use an old panel for marking out areas for instruments with adjustment knobs. I did have to replace the bolt since the one it came with wore out pretty quick.

    Brian

  8. #848
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Mine has given me years and years of good service but was made by Avery.
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    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
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  9. #849
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by umwminer View Post
    Instrument Hole Punch ATS 123-C , Spruce P/N 12-02743 ,
    apparently it “punches “ nice clean panel holes , both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4 .
    curious if anybody here has used one and if so would you recommend it ?
    Been using mine for years. Be sure to use nickel anti seize on the bolt threads to keep wear to a minimum.

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    Last edited by wireweinie; 06-13-2022 at 12:00 PM.
    Life's tough . . . wear a cup.

  10. #850

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    Thanks , Fellas , appreciate it .

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