Thanks: 
Likes: figured Id start a thread to collect up some of the neat shop made tooling and fixtures pictures people share on here....
like daves ski dollies, steves jigs, darrels stuff, and so on...
Add links to the pictures or other threads bellow...
figured Id start a thread to collect up some of the neat shop made tooling and fixtures pictures people share on here....
like daves ski dollies, steves jigs, darrels stuff, and so on...
Add links to the pictures or other threads bellow...
please post some of yours, or others stuff you have seen and like
I'll start off with a simple thing for sanding some of the Thick powder coating off the rudder pedals so the clamps and springs will work right, and not get wobbly once it wears off...
its made from a piece of 3/4" X .035" tube and a small mandrel made on the lathe.
and then a black cold Parkerizing like dip...
AKlindy thanked for this post
making a pulley positioning tool...
to quickly position pulley mounts so the cables will enter and exit the pulley properly centered.
just point each rod where the cables go to and weld mount in place ....done!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axbKAyp9GRQ
..
I really liked the turners darrel posted in this thread..
http://www.supercub.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=21626
he has many other good pictures I hope adds to this thread
my version using inner tierods....
and some fold up stands... cheap fence post..
I made these from a piece of shim stock wrapped on tube, soldered, then add pins and grease and cover with a piece of heat shrink tube to hold in place.....
just slide on a tube
push pins into joint
mark shape and cut or grind for perfect fit
and you could make them to fit any shape you need, box tube hex whatever...
spruce sells high dollar ones.. for bigger tubes
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/...g_cutters.html
this one is not finished.. but someone wanted me to come up with something to help drill the stabilizer on a cub centered and true...
as it slides wider it self adjust to keep centered in tube..the drill would be going down that top piece...
video in use
http://www.youtube.com/user/mcsrepair#p/u/5/j1jcBG3iS6k
this big 36" deep C frame is currently set up to form the 3/8 boot cowl channels... way overkill.... Got the idea from this site as someone mentioned a guy making wagaeros round rear window frames with this method ... ca't find the thread, anyone got a link???
so many other things I want to use that frame for.... like the adapters and tools listed here http://www.lowbucktools.com/MM1.html
this is and old version of a jig for making spring gear (cessna/citabria.. etc.) custom shims.... I have a much simpler jig now....
but am able to measure a plane and make ONE custom shim in one shot dial them in within a 1/32" ...and a mirror image one for ski axle stub (in therory...) never do this enough to get good/quick at it....
will post pics of new style jig...
pilot hole jig
Mike - Keep um comin. For a Mike you sure know how to Jerry rig.
Jerry
If it looks smooth...it might be
If it looks rough...it is!!
leading edge skin maker.... i prefer to just buy premade skins, but sometimes you need to make something quick or odd, or out of stock...
although I sold that monster old lathe its mounted on and got a new one a couple years ago, so cant use this jig any more....
not airplane tool...
but to protect your ways on tools...
window shades, bust the lock out so it free wheels and is always under tension...
and i am a terrible pile-er of stuff....
so have these to cover mill and lathe tables, PVC Pipe cut in half..
and i have since cut this into smaller sections so I can leave vise or rotary table installed on mill table....
Flaugherpa12 liked this post
running out of pictures for now...Originally Posted by cubflier
hopefully you others will add you stuff to this thread!!
Mike, those tools and fixtures are very innovative. Please keep them coming. I'm on a long driving trip and don't have accss to my files so I can't add anything until I return home. I hope others chime in.
Darrel
I'll post for him..Mike, good pics. and thread on the sc board. I don't know how to post pics. but here is a couple of mine. Post 'em if you like. My version of fuselage rotator. It's a home made U joint. I was going to use a U joint from a tractor PTO till I priced one. It is a couple of all thread splice nuts that are welded to a cross tube with scrap bar stock and a 1/2" socket to turn it. MIG welders are great for building jigs and other stuff like this. Then my jig table, it's impossible to find straight lumber but the pre made floor joists are pretty straight. Nothing fancy but just built a Bearhawk Patrol fuselage and it went well. regards. Kevin Nugent a.k.a. Cub Junkie
I'm jealous that you have that LONG flat surface without a bunch of stuff on it.Lee's birthday yesterday and he and his sisters wore me out on the go-cart track but I'll get some pictures up as well.
That picture is a year old Steve, you should see it now. I'm a clutter expert.
the new spring gear shim jig....
I'm glad I posted this, I found my instructions! didn't think I had written them down....
much easier to use, no math involved the tilt screws are 16 threads per inch, so each turn is 1/16" adjustment and are spaced apart same as Cleavland type rim, so if you measure 1/4" toe you just adjust appropriate screw(which is opposite of where you took measurement)..
also, one thing to check before measuring... they say lay strait edge against front of tires... but i always check for one gear trailing back from damage, by measuring equal distances out from center of plane on strait edge to a point in center of belly by tail of fuselage...(if one leg is back and you don't do this plane will track to on side)
remember to remove all shims from axle before measuring....
and full pictures are in my album http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.skup/AroundTheShop#
and if anyone wants to build one, I have the real cad files somewhere, then if you have a cad program that can read them, then you can print out full size patterns on white stick label paper and just stick it to your raw metal and punch through it....
This is a tubing notcher I cobbled up from mostly stuff around the farm. I bought a joint jigger and thought it was a joke. The big metal workbench looking thing was some sort of a scale from an old grain elevator. I bought a 3/4 inch end mill and got the local blacksmith to bore out the shaft of a Massey Ferguson cornhead. The red cast piece held the shaft. I did buy two stout pieces of angle iron to make a deck. The angle that the joint jigger tube holder is mounted to could slide on the deck. The thing really was cobbled but made beautiful notches. I did this about 10 years ago when I was welding up the back half or PA12 fuselages for a guy, fitting the 5/8 in diagonals to the 3/4 longerons.
Very cool!
Keep them coming....
Hey Mike, This is a great thread. Thanks for starting it. There is wonderful talent on this site.
Kevin
I know what a cheesehead is.
What is a cornhead?
post some pictures/links to your stuff like the ski dolly and those jigs for control surfaces... I am sure you have many more good ones to share....I know what a cheesehead is.
What is a cornhead?
Well before I "scored" my old SC fuse for my project I was going to scratch build the fuse and while contemplating advice to grind the notches I came up with an idea to do it with my 12" grizzly metal lathe. I had previously bought a "quick change" toolpost from Enco for it to mount on the compound and among the tool mounts it had with it was a boring tool holder. I think it handles up to 1" od tools. Anyway I made sleeve holders to fit 3/4, 5/8, and 1/2" tubing. Mount the correct hole saw in the headstock chuck, the tube in the holder, and swing the compound to the desired angle, lock then use the longitudinal feed to make a perfect cut. Takes way longer to describe than do. How do people live without a metal lathe anyway??If a person didn't want to buy a quick change (just do it you'll never regret it) you could make tubing holders out of wood bolted to the compound.
magnetic straitening tube blocks...
this was before I thought of adding magnets in blocks... had to fumble and tape them on....
custom punch jaws, use this all the time...
flanging tools
for flanging cessna like floor holes
cowling tools,
dimpler for lower cowl fastners
joggle jig for cowl rails
jig to pre stretch fabric and lightly coat to prevent pinked edges from coming undone, I always use 102 fabric like the tapes are made from.. boy is there a difference between old ceconite 102 and the new 102-3... much stiffer
also making large patches for grommets that are close together instead of overlapping smaller ones...
use window screen retainer cord and tool to attach to frame
between your idea and the other one above I will have to setup something like that!Well before I "scored" my old SC fuse for my project I was going to scratch build the fuse and while contemplating advice to grind the notches I came up with an idea to do it with my 12" grizzly metal lathe. I had previously bought a "quick change" toolpost from Enco for it to mount on the compound and among the tool mounts it had with it was a boring tool holder. I think it handles up to 1" od tools. Anyway I made sleeve holders to fit 3/4, 5/8, and 1/2" tubing. Mount the correct hole saw in the headstock chuck, the tube in the holder, and swing the compound to the desired angle, lock then use the longitudinal feed to make a perfect cut. Takes way longer to describe than do. How do people live without a metal lathe anyway??
yes the Chinese quick change sets are so cheap now... love mine... P.S. I have an old real one and a few holders if someone is looking...
heres where I got mine
http://stores.ebay.com/Discount-Mach...=p4634.c0.m322
Very nice. I'm impressed.
many of the following piper wing tools are displayed in use in the album http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.skup/FabricSteps#
can't remember what the he11 this one is for
for marking screw locations on leading edge skins..
for marking top leading edge screws, if you forgot to mark it before forming skin over rib...
for holding trailing edge false spar tight against rib while you drill it, flap bay
Hope steve p will post his leading edge tools and the channel bender.... For a start...
Mike,
I have a couple of "specialty" tools, just don't have any pictures of them yet...will try to get some this week.
Brian.
Just remembered I had a couple of pictures on my phone of my 0-200 / 0-300 cylinder base stud drill guide for installing Helicoils.
This is the alignment tool for installing Helicoils in 0-200 / 0-300 cylinder base studs. One side is for the drill, the other side is for the tap.
The tool installed on a 0-200 that has some pulled studs.
Drilling the proper size hole for the tap, with some rags stuffed into the bore to keep out the drill chips.
Switch the tool over and tap for the Helicoil.
I made this tool from the cut off base of an old 0-200 cylinder that has been turned true on a big lathe. I made the bushings out of some round stock and then welded them in place. The ends of the bushings were stepped down to fit true into the flange.
welding setup, everything in one spot
rod nice and dry, easy to identify..
pulley positioning tool for big pulleys.. picture, see above post page one for description
so where are all the pictures from everybody else?
come on, lets see your ideas....
My newest tool is a sheetrock hanger used to install wings. Finally tried it out today. Made getting the strut bolts in real easy because I could crank the dihedral up or down very small amounts to line thinks up perfectly and I didn't have to have someone holding the tip up till their arms ached.
Leading edge skin tools designed by Dakota Cub.
Steve Pierce
Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
Will Rogers
Pulls a new bushing in while pushing the old worn bushing out without belling the end. I use a long ball ended allen head socket. There is a flat on the stationary end.
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