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Float flying tips

RB,

Sorry, but there's no relationship between the downwind turn discussion and the question of turning around in a small stream.

I do not disagree at all with what bearsnack says in the notion that if you misjudge the turn towards a cutbank, it ain't gonna be pretty.

And, in a straight stretch of stream, it makes no difference which way you turn, so certainly turn towards the low bank side. That is just common sense.

BUT, what I discussed was a situation where you are in a tight stretch of river, a narrow river, and trying to turn around at the upstream end of the stretch. That means there's a bend in the river at the upstream end--often a switchback so step taxiing around it is out of the question on takeoff.

Now, THINK about the water as it moves around that bend. The SPEED of the current on the outside of the bend is faster, is it not? That is precisely WHY there IS a cutbank, actually. The speed on the beach side is MUCH slower.

The floats on an average seaplane are somewhere between 16 and 20 feet long. place those things sideways in a narrow stream, and one end of those floats is GOING to be in much faster water than the other end of the floats.

If you are going upstream, and need to turn downstream for the takeoff, and you put the TOES of the floats into the slack water while trying to turn, the current will push the HEELS of your floats DOWNSTREAM, effectively defeating your attempt to turn.

So, as Bearsnack says, you beach the airplane, turn it around by hand, and start again, pointed downstream. And, in some cases that works fine. Now, consider that you're in a Cub, right side door only, and you are turning in a stream where the "beach" side is on the left and the cutbank is on the right. You try to turn toward the beach, but it doesn't work. Now, you beach, and that current starts spinning that airplane around to the right as you scramble to get out that one door and get control of the situation. By the time you get out onto the float, the plane is cartwheeling downstream in a narrow river, with cutbanks and lots of trees and brush, and no power, no steerage.

Or, you can put the TOES of those floats into the fast water, the heels into the slow water, and the plane will turn in less than HALF the distance it would take in still water. Much less. Now, this has to be done at minimum forward speed, as in dead idle, and you have to use ALL the river that is available.

Again, this is something you have to experiment with in carefully controlled circumstances FIRST--like someplace it won't hurt anything if you hit the cutbank side. They exist--look for a low cutbank, etc. Or go out in a boat and put IT sideways in a narrow fast river, and see what it does.

Again, bearsnack is absolutely correct on the hazards of mis-applying the technique that I describe. You MUST KNOW your seaplane well, and you have to have practiced this in controlled situation.

I spent many years working seaplanes every summer in different parts of Alaska, often operating in and out of small, confined streams, and generally in airplanes with only one door. That's not the best setup, but it can work.

Learn how the airplane responds to the water and current, and you can operate in some really tight spots quite safely.

But, you can't argue with physics. And, it'll amaze you how quick a seaplane will turn if you USE the current instead of fighting it.

MTV
 
:lol: :lol:

so if you are turning downcurrent :wink: in a silty river, will the resistance of the silt change the turn?

Any data on that :drinking: :drinking:

Come on SD2, you should be making a crack or two...

MTV,

Great explaination. Thank you.
 
Wow. After reading all this I probably need to learn how to fly a float plane. :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
For those of you interested, there are several good books on float flying that take you past the ordinary. The first is Water Flying Concepts by Dale De Remer (an advanced text on wilderness flying). He is/was associate professor of aviation at UND. The other book is Flying a Floatplane by Maurin Faure. Its sort of Kenmore's textbook.
 
Wind on rivers

There is some very good advise here on float flying. The one thing I would like to add is the fact that some rivers make horseshoe bends and the wind gets in those bends and follows the river. The wind down on the river can be as much as 180 deg different than the wind in the air. If you take off into the wind with a super heavy plane and climb too fast you can loose the wind at the top of the trees and be slammed back onto the water. Just keep this in mind . Another situation many people never run into is landing and finding out your water rudders are froze up. I love the aerocett floats but this is a huge problem with them in the fall when temp drop below freezing.
 
Re: Wind on rivers

cubdriver55 said:
Another situation many people never run into is landing and finding out your water rudders are froze up. I love the aerocett floats but this is a huge problem with them in the fall when temp drop below freezing.


can you shed more light on this?

is it from the cables freezing in the little tubes??

Our dive zippers would freeze when I had the dive boat, ice on the rubber. We found that some crisco, silicone or heavy wax would prevent the freeze up.

Maybe that would solve this.
 
George,

Yes, the retract cables on both the Aerocets and Wip floats freeze up in the tubes that house them. I'd rather be walking on the cables, myself. In these situations, it's time to break the rules and leave the water rudders down, and take the verbal abuse of cohorts.

I've tried putting LPS 1 in the little tunnels, but they're so long it's next to impossible to get em full, and they still freeze up.

Float flying during freezing weather just plain sucks. Lots of ways to get in trouble there, like icing up your tail...

MTV
 
mvivion said:
George,

Yes, the retract cables on both the Aerocets and Wip floats freeze up in the tubes that house them. I'd rather be walking on the cables, myself. In these situations, it's time to break the rules and leave the water rudders down, and take the verbal abuse of cohorts.

I've tried putting LPS 1 in the little tunnels, but they're so long it's next to impossible to get em full, and they still freeze up.

Float flying during freezing weather just plain sucks. Lots of ways to get in trouble there, like icing up your tail...

MTV

But the hunting is soooooo good then!

The most fun, imho, is getting the wing covers on your plane, and then getting up every four hours to drive through a foot of snow to sweep the wings and tail so that the snow does not build up and sink the plane... :crazyeyes: :oops:

Or going out and taking an axe to break the ice from the floats so you can taxi to the open water :evil:
 
I have an idea of putting a little rubber "bellows' on the cables at each end of the 'tubes'. (the bicycle industry has the "bellows", they could be trimmed or stretched to fit). A dose of antifreeze before bellows installation might fix this. How do you keep the water on the float-decks from freezing????:)

I always think I'm cool when I fly late enough in the season that I have cable-ice problems. Ultimate usage of the aircraft and season.

Back to the flying bit:

Have thought about and discussed the thing about rudders 'up' for the turn/pivot/weathervane into the wind at the end of a high wind-downwind taxi.

The most important thing is that you are taxiing as slow as possible in this situation before turning around. The question of waters rudders up or down is not nearly as important as ensuring taxiing slowly, and in my mind the sooner the turn/weathervane is over, the better, so it's rudders up for me.

Cubdriver55's advice on knowing what the wind is doing above the trees/riverbank is important.

Torch, this is all basic stuff. A guy can do alot of flying and forget the basics he was taught, (assuming he was taught. The thread about the low-time CFI with the "tailwheel bug" wanting to get a TW endorsement so he can build time and teach in a TD comes to mind. What will he teach???????). Guys who never have to sail forget or don't even know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!????????????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT blows me away.

Anyway, I assume your comment about learning to fly floats was sarcastic, but if not, maybe you can make some time to see some guys in Anchorage about float re-instruction. There are several pro's worth spending a couple hours with who park at Hood. :D DAVE
 
Thanks for all the good info.

Today I was able to find some wind on the lake I'm on and so I did some sailing. One thing about the personality of these Aqua 2400 water rudders is they will cam over to one side and you cannot retrieve them without going forward or go to the back of the float and straighten them by hand. Keep in mind this is with rudders up while sailing back.

Is this normal for water rudders to do this? When they cam over it locks your air rudder to that side also. I have compaired the rigging with other float setups and nothing seems wrong. I have noticed that on some planes the balance cable is on the inside horns and on others they connect to the outside horns.

The geometry on the Aqua 2400's seem goofy in that the piviot point is further aft which would facilitate the cam over tendency.

Anyway any suggestions would be appreciated.

Jerry
 
cubflier said:
Thanks for all the good info.

Today I was able to find some wind on the lake I'm on and so I did some sailing. One thing about the personality of these Aqua 2400 water rudders is they will cam over to one side and you cannot retrieve them without going forward or go to the back of the float and straighten them by hand. Keep in mind this is with rudders up while sailing back.

Is this normal for water rudders to do this? When they cam over it locks your air rudder to that side also. I have compaired the rigging with other float setups and nothing seems wrong. I have noticed that on some planes the balance cable is on the inside horns and on others they connect to the outside horns.

The geometry on the Aqua 2400's seem goofy in that the piviot point is further aft which would facilitate the cam over tendency.

Anyway any suggestions would be appreciated.

Jerry

For GAWWWWWWWD sakes, do not make the mistake of believeing that any other set has correct rigging :crazyeyes: :crazyeyes:

Look to see if there is a stop missing...

and maybe try the cables in other holes on the water rudder horn.


Torch, Have fly pole, CFI and will travel :wink:

Or you come down here and I will challenge you with our wind, rain, clouds and granite filled overcast.
 
cubflier said:
Thanks for all the good info.

Today I was able to find some wind on the lake I'm on and so I did some sailing. One thing about the personality of these Aqua 2400 water rudders is they will cam over to one side and you cannot retrieve them without going forward or go to the back of the float and straighten them by hand. Keep in mind this is with rudders up while sailing back.

Is this normal for water rudders to do this? When they cam over it locks your air rudder to that side also. I have compaired the rigging with other float setups and nothing seems wrong. I have noticed that on some planes the balance cable is on the inside horns and on others they connect to the outside horns.

The geometry on the Aqua 2400's seem goofy in that the piviot point is further aft which would facilitate the cam over tendency.

Anyway any suggestions would be appreciated.

Jerry

Do the rudders fully retract? Do they fully extend? What springs do you have at the air rudder, etc?

There is a solution to this problem. Got pictures? I'd love to help. D
 
Here are the pics - They're not much but maybe you can see something. Note the way the rudder pivot point will cause the rudder to lower a bit into the water as it is turned to the right and left. This helps with this cam over problem.

I have installed 3/4 inch stops on each side on the tail of the floats to keep the rudders from going over so much.

Thanks

Jerry
float_rigging_001.jpg

float_rigging_002.jpg
 
mvivion said:
George,

Yes, the retract cables on both the Aerocets and Wip floats freeze up in the tubes that house them. I'd rather be walking on the cables, myself. In these situations, it's time to break the rules and leave the water rudders down, and take the verbal abuse of cohorts.

I've tried putting LPS 1 in the little tunnels, but they're so long it's next to impossible to get em full, and they still freeze up.

Float flying during freezing weather just plain sucks. Lots of ways to get in trouble there, like icing up your tail...

MTV
Some people take the cables out of these tubes and this tends to help the lowering problem. The rudders freezing side to side is a bigger problem becasuse your air rudders only work as much as the springs stretch. I have spend many days peeing on the cables everytime I land to free them up.
 
Jerry, I see what you mean about the hinge-axis vs. the fairlead for the pull-up cable.

It appears that you are not on the up-stop bumper.

Also, looks like the thimble/nico-sleeve is bumping on the pull-up fairlead and you have limited how far you can pull up. Maybe you could lose the shackle and instead, bolt the thimble to the rudder using a large area washer and a bushing/spacer. The point of this is to get the rudder higher, so it doesn't drop as much when you steer side to side. It will also help with beaching tail-to-shore.

Also, not sure what you have for a steering arm on the air rudder, but if it is giving the h2o rudders too much throw (yes, it is possible to have too much, and it makes for a stalling/cavitating flow over the h2o rudder blades), a shorter arm on the air rudder is appropriate.

Another trick is to rig the h20 rudders with a bit of toe-in. With toe-in, the h2o rudder on the inside of a turn turns tighter than the one on the outside of the turn. It's kindof important.

You haven't mentioned how well the thing steers slow-taxiing. I just mentioned all this stuff to show you it's possible to have a good turning float plane without having a wild amount of h20 rudder throw.

Hope this helps. That's the reason why I'm on this site. DAVE
 
I'd follow Dave's advice. The more water rudder you can get OUT of the water when sailing, the better.

I have always wanted my water rudders rigged as close to aligned with the centers of the floats as possible, rather than any toe-in, but as often as not, to get a seaplane to fly straight, mechanics will rig one water rudder as a "trim tab".

As to moving backwards during sailing: If you move backwards in sailing at any significant speed, the water rudders are GOING to be forced one direction or the other if any part of the blades is in the water, and there almost always is some significant part of the blades in the water. At times, in those cases, you simply need to STAND on a rudder to keep it off the stop.

Check the mechanical advantage, as Dave suggested, between the air rudder and the water rudders. On my airplane, we attached a longer rudder arm on the air rudder arm to provide more throw on the water rudders-ei: more arm. My water rudders were small, and relatively ineffective.

Bottom line, you do NOT want to be going very fast in reverse when sailing. Hit something with that part of a float, and it's going to be expensive, and you may wind up sleeping there. When sailing backwards, if you can move fairly fast (as in a brisk wind) then keep the engine running, and use the thrust to moderate the rearward momentum. That is the best of all worlds when sailing anyway, and affords great control.

MTV
 
mvivion said:
When sailing backwards, if you can move fairly fast (as in a brisk wind) then keep the engine running, and use the thrust to moderate the rearward momentum. MTV


For sure be careful in a brisk wind. Moving fast, you can bury a float tail, which eventually leads to burying an airplane. (Think submarine diving) :eek:
 
Dave and Mike,

Thanks for your advice and comments. With regards to Dave's question, I think these floats turn poorly at slow speeds also. I have watched other float planes turn radius on calm water and at least from my observation they seem more nimble.

In addition to the turn radius seeming large, the pedal pressure to operate the rudders seems ridiculous. If they cam over while sailing, even at reasonable speeds, there is no amount of stomping on the rudder that will return them.

I think a big part of the heavy feel of the rudders is in the geometry between the fair lead and pivot point so I will work on that. As you might guess I'm not a real fan of the Aqua's yet in an ironic sort of way they are a match for the plane they are on. :wink:

Again - thanks for the ideas.

Jerry
 
I worked on a set of Aquas one full summer.

Thoes things would step turn on a dime. You could push the rudder hard over almost and nary a skip...

of course they had to because they loved the water so much :drinking:


Something is wrong with your rigging on the cam over.
 
bearsnack said:
Jerry, here is a simple phrase to remember for working the rivers.... Never turn towards the cut bank.
When sideways in the current, be on high alert and have a plan as to what you are doing. When you want to turn sharp push the elevator (stick) forward and give blips of the throttle.
Take off down stream or up stream, it doesn't matter. Just be careful about landing upstream with a tailwind.
Use ailerons to help you turn in the wind while taxiing.
And the number one rule of float flying....don't put your cell phone in your shirt pockets!

Bearsnack,

I've been absent for a while. Your post provides the best advice in the thread, hands down. Never turn toward a cut bank. If it doesn't work out, at least I'm stuck on the good side of the river!


SB
 
Man, you guys don't work creeks with much current if you turn away from the cutbank. Either that, or the creeks you're in aren't very narrow.

MTV
 
Folks who fly floats can figure it out for themselves. That shouldn't take long.

SB
 
Is it me, or do opinions seem in two camps on stuff:

Guys that pay for their own plane

Guys that have someone else paying for their plane
8)
 
MTV Said:

Man, you guys don't work creeks with much current if you turn away from the cutbank. Either that, or the creeks you're in aren't very narrow.

MTV

No Mike, we never land in anything more than probably 13 or 14 knots of current (sometimes if it's been hot it's more) and narrow is a matter of perspective I suppose. 8)

And AKtango, I think I know what you're saying; but I don't feel like I'm in a different camp when I'm flying a company/someone else's plane, I fly them just as I do my own plane, perhaps even more carefully. When you fly off airport for a living you should be careful all the time no matter what you're flying or where. I try to be, that's why we turn away from cutbanks going downstream in narrow rivers with lots of current with heavy loads sometimes in 40+ kt crosswinds. :-?

RB
 
RedBaron said:
MTV Said:

Man, you guys don't work creeks with much current if you turn away from the cutbank. Either that, or the creeks you're in aren't very narrow.

MTV

No Mike, we never land in anything more than probably 13 or 14 knots of current (sometimes if it's been hot it's more) and narrow is a matter of perspective I suppose. 8)

And AKtango, I think I know what you're saying; but I don't feel like I'm in a different camp when I'm flying a company/someone else's plane, I fly them just as I do my own plane, perhaps even more carefully. When you fly off airport for a living you should be careful all the time no matter what you're flying or where. I try to be, that's why we turn away from cutbanks going downstream in narrow rivers with lots of current with heavy loads sometimes in 40+ kt crosswinds. :-?

RB

Sounds like a guy flying in Iliamna country :crazyeyes:
 
Well, wind adds a whole different set of problems.

George, I concur with Red Baron on the way I always worked non owned airplanes. Just cause I don't own the thing doesn't mean I abuse it or take risks that are out of the ordinary.

I think the differences in opinions here are more reflective of different areas and conditions than anything else. I worked in and out of Birch Creek and Beaver Creek and other interior streams for years. Turning around in those streams can be interesting, but there is rarely any wind, since you're typically down in the river channel. Other parts of Alaska or the world will offer different challenges.

But, again, I commend you to take an 18-20 foot boat out into a narrow stream, at the upstream end of a straight stretch, where the stream comes around a corner. Put the boat into that current, broadside, and see which end goes downstream, and which lags as you turn to the downstream. I'm NOT talking about wind as a factor here. This is simple physics.

I've been in streams where you simply could not turn to the downstream in that kind of setup by turning toward the slack current side. You'll beach if you do, because the plane's heels will be caught in faster water, and pushed down stream, while you're trying to turn the other way.

And, in an airplane with one door, spinning around in a current after you ground can get pretty exciting.

I would not advocate turning toward the cutbank UNLESS you KNOW the turn radius and character of your plane, EVER, and the specific conditions are present. And, as Red Baron says, there are going to be other factors at play in many situations.

MTV
 
Aktango58 said:
Sounds like a guy flying in Iliamna country

How'd you know? :lol:

I do agree that using the current to turn around can be good...when possible.

RB
 
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