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Thread: Wind seal

  1. #1

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    Wind seal

    I installed new windseal today and discovered that it doesn't touch parts of the window. The design appears as though it never did.
    In regards to the door bottom, I recall my 94 having a vinyl or leather strip so that when you opened the door there would not be an air gap between the door and the fuse. Does this sound correct?

  2. #2
    mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    -18 right?
    I have a 1/2" foam bulb sewn into vinyl to be my upper door seal... that rubber bulb stuff doesn't make a seal in the back side of upper window

    the bottom one is 2 thin layers of vinyl with a small bulb sewn in center, vinyl is back to back.....

    when you go to install this one, prop door partially open with a full roll of paper towel laying on struts against fuselage... to give right amount of stretch to it.. or it will bunch up and prevent door from closing/bend hinges...

    it also only goes between hinges, NOT in hinge area...no room for it there...

    need some pictures to explain how to trim it prior to gluing down... the underneath layer is trimmed some and glued down and under interior panel, then the outer layer is is glued down, mostly only on edges....

  3. #3

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    i'm with mike and i got my 1/2" seal from aircraft spruce. it's large enough to seal but the smaller seal wasn't- gaps too big to make any seal on the smaller stuff.
    gary

  4. #4
    behindpropellers's Avatar
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    Re: Wind seal

    Quote Originally Posted by Fortysix12
    I installed new windseal today and discovered that it doesn't touch parts of the window. The design appears as though it never did.
    In regards to the door bottom, I recall my 94 having a vinyl or leather strip so that when you opened the door there would not be an air gap between the door and the fuse. Does this sound correct?
    I have taken most of the cracked rotten stuff out of the '89 and replaced it with this. Stewart B led me to it. Mcmaster-Carr was the easiest way for me to get it.

    www.mcmaster.com


    1 1067A59 1 Each Fire-rated Adhesive-backed Rubber Bulb Seal, Charcoal, 1/2"o'all Width, 1/4"o'all Height, 25'l

  5. #5
    Mush's Avatar
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    I recently took my lower door off to remove the fabric and install lexan. The lower door had black duct tape covering the gap so I bought the correct weather stripping from Univair. There were 3 screw holes in the door and 3 inside the cockpit for attaching it. If you just put the screws it doesn't lay down so I suppose this is what Mike is saying to glue down. Question is, what is the best stuff to use? Also, a friend's super cub has aluminum strips holding the leather down to the door and the cockpit. They were in the plane when he bought it so he doesn't know if they are original or if someone made them. Anyone else have them?
    Last edited by Mush; 09-18-2011 at 01:18 PM.

  6. #6
    Darrel Starr's Avatar
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    I made a couple pieces out of aluminum, one for the door and one for the fuselage, to trap a piece of black convertable top material -- no glue involved. This works great but I have not found a really good solution for sealing clear around the doors. That is why Vivian is a three season Super Cub passenger, even with a rear seat heater.
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  7. #7
    WindOnHisNose's Avatar
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    This is a very vexing problem when it is cold here in MN. Julie really hates the rear seat when it is 20 degrees or lower and the wind is howling through the gap.

    I have use gaffing tape, which is made for theatre applications, and it leaves virtually no residue.

    I think a contraption which blocks wind from the outside is preferable/more effective than blocking from the inside. I recall seeing a Newsweek series of photos of a dam that was giving way many years ago, with a guy on a bulldozer pushing rock as fast as he could into the down stream side of the dam. The author pointed out that this was bad strategy, that he should have been pushing it on the up stream side....Didn't really matter in that instance, in light of the fact that the dam was giving way and the dozer driver had to jump off the machine and run as fast as he could to safety!

    We need a solution for this...a campaign to "Get Vivian into the Winter Flying".

    Randy

  8. #8
    StewartB
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    FYI, here is Pemko's latest catalog of self-stick UL rated door gasket materials. I use S88 on my PA-12 doors. I believe that's what Tim referred to above. Look at the S773 on page 2. That could be useful in lots of applications.

    http://www.pemko.com/index.cfm?startRow=1&event=products.productListing &searchName=Search+by+Category&openFilter=loadCate gorySearch&ratingIds=&categoryId=895&subcategoryId =&productMaterialId=&competitorId=&partCategoryIds =

    S
    B

  9. #9
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    I ended up using this stuff from McMaster Carr on my 12. Second item on this page. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3440/=e4zzry It's nice soft silicone rubber, very compliant and the adhesive backing is good and sticky. It's the product called "Fire-ratd Adhesive-Backed Bulb Seals"
    Gordon

    N4328M KTDO
    My SPOT: tinyurl.com/N4328M (case sensitive)

  10. #10
    DaCub-DaCub's Avatar
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    For what it is worth in the way of passenger comfort and winter flying I picked up an old Fairbanks Ak cub heater trick I thought to share. About 6 foot of scat duct on the heat ctrl box on the firewall laid between the heals and circled arount the rear control stick and jammed under the rear of the foreward seat. The heat then blows foreward under the panel or wherever you point it. Passenger is cold just? Just have em place the duct under the jacket, down the waiders, or in the snowsuit and inflate it with hot air. I've had the duct on the floor for 15years winter and summer and really isn't in the way. B

  11. #11
    Darrel Starr's Avatar
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    Lots of food for thought.

  12. #12
    StewartB
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaCub-DaCub View Post
    For what it is worth in the way of passenger comfort and winter flying I picked up an old Fairbanks Ak cub heater trick I thought to share. About 6 foot of scat duct on the heat ctrl box on the firewall laid between the heals and circled arount the rear control stick and jammed under the rear of the foreward seat. The heat then blows foreward under the panel or wherever you point it. Passenger is cold just? Just have em place the duct under the jacket, down the waiders, or in the snowsuit and inflate it with hot air. I've had the duct on the floor for 15years winter and summer and really isn't in the way. B
    Same here. With Atlee's defroster box I keep a loose piece of scat that I can plug in to run heat to the rear seat. I've never needed it. My heater rocks. I can't open it even half way or it'll cook me. I should run that scat to divert the heat aft. I'll try that when it gets cold.

    SB

  13. #13
    Dave Calkins's Avatar
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    THE WAY to fix a cold co-pilot is this:

    ...assist your co-pilot in loading her carcass in to the rear seat. Then, lovingly place two...count 'em, 2 caribou hides over her and ensure that the 6 foot rear seat heater hose is also placed under the hides.........

    this will create warmth in more ways than one.....

    But don't forget that most of the cold air in what we know as a 'drafty' airplane comes from the back....extended baggage, under the rear seat, around the headliner, etc. REALLY...try fixing those, you'll be amazed. D

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