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Our Cub Project

Going back together.







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Not enough hours in the day....

Something to notice here, We forgot the springs on the rear rudder pedals. I have always wondered why our rudder cables were a little slack at the tail (edit) when parked. From the looks of things, I am not going to even attempt to put those things in. You have been warned.
 
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Something to notice here, We forgot the springs on the rear rudder pedals. I have always wondered why our rudder cables were a little slack at the tail. From the looks of things, I am not going to even attempt to put those things in. You have been warned.

Actually the only reason for the springs is to keep a little tension on the cable when your feet are not on the pedals so that the cables don't get caught on stuff. They also keep the pedals from flopping down to the floor if you take your feet off them in flight. Your foot pressure provides the flight load tension.
 
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Actually the only reason for the springs is to keep a little tension on the cable when your feet are not on the pedals so that the cables don't get caught on stuff. They also keep the pedals from flopping down to the floor if you take your feet off them in flight. Your foot pressure provides the flight load tension.

Right, I edited my post to say that it was when parked. It is really not that bad, I made sure to shim the pedals correctly and I removed the paint in the bearing area so there was minimal resistance. 4 springs would have been great.
 
The Left wing is nearing completion and we are hoping to start on the Right wing in the coming month. The Right wing has ribs on spars and N struts and compression members. The Left wing has been a learning experience (read PITA) with a lot of lessons learned paving the way for success. We made the false spar material on our brake and after a steep learning curve got the trailing edges to come out all looking the same. We have a new to us 8.5 ft WYSONG brake that makes the nicest bends. Craigslist find! Also Pictured are our Carbon Fiber wing tips and Leading edges. I will have a write up on them soon. The tips weigh 17 oz and fit great.

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We ended up scrounging 8 ailerons and 4 flaps. Great for making extended surfaces.

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80" Flaps in-boarded to the fuselage.

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We had a special visitor to our little field, an osprey came and shot some touch and goes. That thing makes a strange thumping sound. It made a low pass and it moves out.
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Tcraft in your second picture in this series you show the cleco'ed leading edge of an aileron or flap. I have my first scratch built flap LE that far along (not mounted to the spar) but after several hours cannot figure out how to properly rivet the front top rivet (just above the nose). I have ruined several scrap (roof flashing) leading edge examples trying. The other 3 rivets are easy and if I back up 1/2 inch towards the first top one it works fine but in the factory hole location I can't get it to work. Did you make a special tool for the curved edge? I have an air scissor riveter and it reaches in there ok but the angle it squeezes is wrong and bends the leading edge. ?? Thanks
 
We used a curved bucking bar kinda shaped like a question mark. You have to flex the skin up after the lower is attached, if my memory is correct.
 
Thank you. Last night before I went to sleep I was thinking about "flex the skin up" (I assume leaving the top skin loose is what you were talking about) and on my practice pieces I was attaching the other 3 rivets first and perhaps that is why it wouldn't work. I'll try again today. Another problem is I am trying to use rivet squeezers and maybe this is the wrong place for that. Anyway thank you again for your help!
 
You and Dad are turning out a nice project, its all looking good, if I were to critique anything, like Mike I would be very cautious on connection down at landing gear ? That does not look like it is going to stand up to alot of off airport work, hate to see you have all this great
Work ,upside down and bent crank in that beautiful engine , because that fails??? I am pretty sure i would load up heavy , and find out the exact lenght i need and make up a standard fixed tubed , and get that fitting outta there??? If your just on hottop all the time your probably fine........nice work, and all the best on the completion of your project!
You guys are living proof this shouldnt take 5-10years it so often does
 
Turbo, The aircraft has been flying now for almost 6 months. It took 5 years of Saturdays, 2 houses, 1 child and 2 career changes.
 
Ha ha, well you done good..................... that is quite a trail you have left behind! I am sure you will have an awful lot of fun with it, she looks really nice! Hopin all your flights have tailwinds
E
 
Last week we took the Cub to Sun N' Fun 2015. We had the plane judged in the Homebuilt section with the scooter on the side. On Saturday I got a text asking me to attend the awards presentation and our hard work was rewarded with "Reserve Grand Champion Plans Homebuilt". Also this year, we got to fly at the LSA/Ultralight strip the latter half of the week and let me tell you, those people are a hoot to fly with, we had a blast and felt welcome in their area. Next year, that is where we will arrive into and camp. Anyone who feels comfortable with 1400x75 grass is welcome and they fly all day.
Pic is from the SNF fb page.

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Super great job, I like the idea of the overhead flap lever, might be a problem for an old guy like me with shoulder replacement. I extende my gear 6in wish I had only done 3in. Also wished I had made my floorboards easier to replace. What did you cover it with? I am contemplating a recover with Oratex, what are your thoughts ?
 
What did you cover it with? I am contemplating a recover with Oratex, what are your thoughts ?

Oratex looks like a winner, but poly fiber has a good track record for longevity and with the expense of a recover, we were not ready to experiment to that level. There are a few good threads, mostly Rogers, that outline the Oratex process. We went with poly fiber.
 
Oratex looks like a winner, but poly fiber has a good track record for longevity and with the expense of a recover, we were not ready to experiment to that level. There are a few good threads, mostly Rogers, that outline the Oratex process. We went with poly fiber.

Not to criticize your decision, Tcraft128, but I dare say I should say that the Oratex has a good track record and is Not all that experimental. Sure our oldest plane is "only 14 years old" but you don't get 30 STC's in Europe for nothing, also I do not think 200 planes flying in Europe with no problems whatsoever can be dismissed. 3 Aircraft makers-companies are using Oratex in Europe and You can bet they do not play Russian Roulette Either... Sure Polyfiber has a L-o-n-g Track record, but how can there be any improvement if nothing new gets used? Anyway, see here the EASA -STC- list...Regards from Alaska.

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Great job guys; congrats on the awards! Want to come by my place and help me finish??? :) I had someone ask about my spring design and how it's working out. Since I'm not finished yet and you are flying on how has it been working? Anyway, great work and inspiration for us builders to keep moving forward.
Marty57
 
Great job guys; congrats on the awards! Want to come by my place and help me finish??? :) I had someone ask about my spring design and how it's working out. Since I'm not finished yet and you are flying on how has it been working? Anyway, great work and inspiration for us builders to keep moving forward.
Marty57

Marty your spring design works great. I do wish I would have added a touch more preload though.

Lars, I meant no disrespect in my response, just giving the gentleman who asked my reasoning on using Polyfiber. I am sure that the product is fine and I will continue to follow the progress for future projects. Thanks for the clarification on the EASA certification and good luck with the FAA.
 
Wow, Time flies. In the past year, we have changed the landing gear to 3x3 with TK1 suspension, installed T3 tail suspension and I am working on some lightweight doors right now. We are trying to get below the 1090 mark for New Holstien STOL this year!
 
Carbon windshield strip bonded to windshield

The windshield is bonded to the carbon strip then installed on the boot cowl with rivets.


Did you use any special prep to bond the carbon strip to the windshield ? What did you make the bond with ? Has it stayed attached well ?

thanks, Jonny O
 
Thanks! That explains it. That is probably mentioned somewhere in your posts but I was just looking at the pictures.

Right now I'm trying to figure out the #1 compression strut. I think drawing #14232 has an error on it. It shows the foot and insert off set like the other tubes for the drag wire pull assy 1/16 inch. The wire pull is actually on the other or non foot end so there will be an unsupported 1/16 air gap under the foot end. I can't seem to see it any other way. The way 14232-2 is laid out it would fit the non tank right wing just fine since there are two piano wires used there. Guess I just put a 1/16" washer under the foot end and all should be well.


Does the Pawnee compression member, in your picture, have two of the square aluminum tubes used for a Supercub stacked one on top of the other ? Could you post a picture ? Thank you. Jonny O
 
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