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Overhead Flap handle Pics

tcraft128

tcraft128

FRIEND
St. Marys GA; GA36
Ok, So I have searched for some info on the overhead flap handle and I have found some discussion, so drawings of what could work, but I am looking for what is flying and working. Are there any pics of the overhead handle like in the CC sport sub or the Carbon Cub that are viewable to the public? This seems to come up every year or so, but there just are not any good pics of the cable routing, handle attach or design floating around. if you have or know where they can be found, post them here. At least people searching later in time will be able to find them.
 
Here are a couple of pictures I took this summer at the West Cost Cub Fly-in. Cool set up.
Marty57

CC_Flap_handle_5.jpg


CC_Flap_handle_4.jpg
 
Just like the Murphy Elite.. I'm not interested in banging my head off one of these in an "arrival" !
 
tcraft128 said:
Ok, So I have searched for some info on the overhead flap handle and I have found some discussion, so drawings of what could work, but I am looking for what is flying and working. Are there any pics of the overhead handle like in the CC sport sub or the Carbon Cub that are viewable to the public? This seems to come up every year or so, but there just are not any good pics of the cable routing, handle attach or design floating around. if you have or know where they can be found, post them here. At least people searching later in time will be able to find them.
Click to expand...

There is a Carbon Cub kit in a local shop. As I recall there are no flap cables. The push rod coming from the flap handle activates a rod that runs horizontally from the inboard end of one flap to the inboard end of the other. They don't appear to use an inboard flap hinge the way the Piper cubs do. The inboard end of the flaps ride on bearings attached to that rear rod that crosses the fuselage behind the rear wing spar. Sorry I don't have pictures. CC came up with a pretty clever design as long as the overhead handle isn't a problem in an "incident".

I've seen the builder's manuals and they appear to be very detailed and well done.

Mark
 
That whole assembly in the CC Cubs is pretty far up and out of the way. Its not like a SuperCub in that respect, you have a lot more room around your head. I don't think my head would come in contact with it unless the belt or seat gave way...and then I'm probably dealing with bigger problems.
 
It only takes about two approaches where you don't have to scoot your ass over, take your eyes off the runway, reach down under your left boot while controlling the throttle with your left hand and hoping like hell you don't need full left aileron because your thigh is in the way ..... to fall in love with this system. Additionally, CC designed the flaps this way because there are fewer moving parts and the entire thing is lighter. If your head hits the handle where it is....you are just about to have a really, really bad day and some major problems eclipsing any worries about it. Ralph
 

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Does anyone have any more pics of that I am going to do this on my 12. I am at a point that I can change it over and I really like the overhead handle and torque tube arrangement.
 
Skip, Have you come down and seen our setup? Not sure if you were one of our few visitors or not.
-Jay
 
I have a torque tube at the near the rear spar crossover that oparated by pushrod. has to short pushrods from that torque tube to the flaps. ditch the cables
 
This is how I did on my 2 planes. Works good for me


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we fitted the pivot over the front cross tube with a split aluminum block, bolted in place and greased the tube.
another thought.. placing the trigger on the back seemed like a more intuitive location.. it activates as you get to the handle.

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Little Cub,

I'm planning something much like that but I'm using rod ends to allow some adjustment at the flap end of the rod and also on the torque tube which will be accessable from inside the cabin. I don't have it all worked out yet but I think it will give enough mechanical advantage to allow 50 degrees flaps with something like 12" movement of the flap handle which should keep it high enough to not get in the way with flaps down.

Your split block with a PTFE liner is another idea that I may play with some before I finalize the system. Glad to see yours works well.
 
A Citabria uses a split phenolic block to support each end of the torque tube. The Lake LA-4 uses a phenolic block with a needle bearing at each end. The loads on these parts can be very high, depending on the size of the flap and direction of the load, so you need to consider the friction factor in the support block.
 
Sky,

If I use split blocks I was thinking of aluminum block with a bolt on each side mounted to the rear spar with some reinforcing (maybe 0.063 6061) at the attach point. Are you saying that would not be adequate or is some other attach point/method suggested?

Actually, I'm thinking of two rod ends attached to the rear spar by a 4130 plate/bolt and a fork on the torque tube and a bolt thru. This would allow tweaking as necessary to ensure alignment. Maybe I should consider an attachment between the front and rear spars with a 4130 tube in between. My flaps are fairly large.
 
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No, that is not what I was saying. Just be sure that your method has a low friction component (oil hole, grease fitting, frictionless materiel, etc.) and properly supports the torque tube.
 
OK, they also make the rod ends with teflon liner. I'm not big on the idea of alum to 4130 contact where there is movement. I was thinking PTFE sheet in the blocks and polished 4130 at the joint. I like the ability to adjust the mounts which is why I'm pretty sure I'll use rod ends.

I would be very interested if anyone has pix of their torque tube attachments and how they are suspended inside the wings.
 
The Citabria and Lake, which I mentioned, have bellcranks welded or bolted to the torque tube. The bellcrank is located just outside the fuselage, connected through a short push rod to the inboard end of the flap. Nothing out in the wing. The flap itself absorbs the twisting load of the surface.
 
I think that a flap handle above the head in any position is bad. I would not want it there in case the worst day of your life happens. Having been in an accident and also witnessing some pretty bad ones this is not a place you need metal hanging down to run through the side of your head. People have said you have more to worry about then this if you are already at that point and I disagree. This may be the thing that kills or leaves you a vegetable, you could have survived the accident if that handle had not gone through the side of your temple. It could also be that one thing that keeps you trapped inside unable to get out.

Just my two cents on it.
 
Sky,

My flaps are set up for center actuation so my bell crank will be in the wing. Thought that would help to reduce the twist in the flap and ailerons.

Mauleguy,

Understand your concern. I had a friend in college that hit a pig in an MGB...pig went over the hood and thru the windshield...he ducked and was impaled on the gear shift and the knob and rod went thru his liver. I should have died in Feb 1970 from an RPG.
Not to sound reckless, but my Dad used to say if you're born to hang you're not going to drown.
 
Well I reiterate post #4.. jumped in my customers Elite, to fire it up and put it back in the hangar this afternoon, and gashed my head open on the handle climbing in. Love my floor mounted flap system... but there is a cut in the side of my knee.... :)
 
If I ever build another Cub it’ll have an overhead flap handle with pushrods. No cables, no pulleys. With the headroom in a Rev airframe there’s space for it. Anyone building a Rev 3? I’d like to see that flap control setup.
 
how about a pic of someone sitting in their cub with the flap handle deployed?? right there is where I do most of my looking .
 
There:



Maybe I'm thinking wrong, but I plan to crash my cub mostly head first, not sideways.
 
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