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Thread: Progress Report

  1. #41
    Grant's Avatar
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    they dont know whats wrong with it. Just send $550 and they'll fix it.

    I put the tab on and have it pretty centered. Next is the aileron adjustment then washout if necessary.


    Both of the ailerons should be rigged slightly down when the plane is on the ground....I did not do that and now they both are up about 1/2 inch in flight.

    The plane flies pretty straight right off the bat. I'm real happy with it.

    BTW I never knew a little drop or two of oil could spread so far down the fuselage.....

  2. #42
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grant
    . Where does one start when it comes to adusting the rigging for hands off? I can see where one would affect the other....

    ?
    Put plane in level flight attitude front to back on ground and place level side to side about at struts on bottom of wing leading edge, make both sides read same... Now go look at ball it should be centered, if not rotate gauge till it is.... Now the ball 'should' read right in flight....

    In flight get ball centered then see what twist wing needs, you don't care what it does if ball is not in center....useless info then...

    And sometimes depending onnhow crooked plane is you may need to rotate gauge to where plane behaves better at stall/landing without dropping a wing..... Since in addition to flying hands off you also want it to have a nice personality too........

  3. #43
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grant
    .

    Is it normal for one tank to fed first on a both/off setup?
    You might have a low spot in cross vent above your head, allowing a fuel lock and not allowing both tanks to be same pre sure till there is a big difference in them.....

    Also do a fuel flow check if you can to see that they both flow equal, and you don't have a crushed finger screen, or other problem in one line....

  4. #44
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Re: radio

    Quote Originally Posted by ag-pilot
    Do you have a over voltage thing going on?

    Dave
    Yeah I would definatley be checking buss voltage running, especially with that alternator set up, if it's the one that grounds the field wire to go gangbusters.......

    If it is they make a new style regulator with over voltage built in..... But ....that does no good if field wire itself gets grounded......

  5. #45
    irishfield's Avatar
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    Grant already admitted to having the radio on during start up and shut down... you can voltage protect up the ying yang.. but they still won't take that abuse at times..

  6. #46
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irishfield
    Grant already admitted to having the radio on during start up and shut down... you can voltage protect up the ying yang.. but they still won't take that abuse at times..

    Yes, but it sounded more like hi volt issue..... Startup would kill it sooner at start I would think, but hivolts/ AC will kill them at runup. (don't ask how I know this......$$$$$$)

    Oh check for AC, bad diode too....(bouncing amp needle)

  7. #47
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irishfield
    Grant already admitted to having the radio on during start up and shut down... you can voltage protect up the ying yang.. but they still won't take that abuse at times..

    warning.. thread fork....

    so this makes me think more of why I also dislike having a starter solenoid connected after the master solenoid(new cub style).... cranking will pull buss volt lower during cranking, then let it fly back up.....

    instead of how a piper(and most others) originally were wired(with fuse setup) with starter solenoid connected direct to battery... less buss fluctuation..... hmmmmm

    would be interesting to measure some buss voltages cranking with mags off both ways.... bet there is a big difference especially with a old worn master solenoid big contacts....

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