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Thread: Window latch thingie

  1. #41
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    I had the same question. Just drill two small holes in the leading edge skin. Be careful not to over tighten the screws. It will hold just fine even when flying around with the window open.
    You can use the plastic wall anchors like you use in sheetrock

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    You can use the plastic wall anchors like you use in sheetrock

    Glenn
    Did you actually use to plastic wall anchors like you suggested or is that an untested idea?

  3. #43
    Larry G's Avatar
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  4. #44
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    You can use the plastic wall anchors like you use in sheetrock

    Glenn
    I wouldn't consider this unless I had really butchered the holes in the first place. Even then a keyed rivnut might be a better idea.

    Quote Originally Posted by Larry G View Post
    I got mine from West-Marine. Lost one spring which I replaced with part of one from a ball point pen. I also cut the hook a little deeper to give it more holding power.
    N1PA

  5. #45
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowjunk View Post
    Did you actually use to plastic wall anchors like you suggested or is that an untested idea?
    My 76 year old sheet metal on my J4 has had a few for years.

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  6. #46
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    PK screws into the leading edge have worked well for me. Rivnuts if the holes wallow out. We rivet a doubler in that area at rebuild. Beware there are some chicken head latches that have really weak springs. I got some on Amazon that weren't worth a flip.
    Steve Pierce

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  7. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    PK screws into the leading edge have worked well for me. Rivnuts if the holes wallow out. We rivet a doubler in that area at rebuild. Beware there are some chicken head latches that have really weak springs. I got some on Amazon that weren't worth a flip.
    I have a dumb question about PK screws for this application. Do you drill a pilot hole for the screw and what size? #32?

  8. #48
    Eddie Foy's Avatar
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    Read this. Yes unless it is self drilling. Even then I like a small pilot hole.

    http://www.ullrich-aluminium.co.nz/f...ing_screws.php
    Last edited by Eddie Foy; 09-18-2016 at 02:03 PM.
    "Put out my hand and touched the face of God!"

  9. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lefoy84 View Post
    Read this. Yes unless it is self drilling. Even then I like a small pilot hole.

    http://www.ullrich-aluminium.co.nz/f...ing_screws.php
    Thats great. I have some "A" type PK screws.

  10. #50

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    I love it! Chicken-Head latch! Also, had no idea that ten dollar cc latch could be had from Ace Hardware for three bucks. Good catch.

    Elbow Latch? Now I know why I could never find one at a hardware store - didn't think to wonder how my elbow got latched.

    These things seem to work ok, especially if you sharpen the hook, and maybe add some tape to the door, or re-shape it slightly.

    And I still think my special latch is the best, but it won't work on a Super Cub.

  11. #51
    Larry G's Avatar
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    I pick up up some used cabinets from work had one on all the double doors for locking. I'm down to about 10 or so now. Ya at $10.00 a pop that's good profit

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