Univair has them, they may only list them for the PA-18 95 but they're the same I'm pretty sure. I made my own pretty easily. I could send you some measurements if you'd like.
I wasnt going to do this but maybe one more time. What i did was fasten a piece of flat accross the prop flange somehow. Then take a couple of cushioned visegrips and put your nosebowl about 3/8s of an inch behind the flange i THINK. Anyway, put it EXACTLY where you want it. Where it is going to run. Centered all the way around and parallel with the crankshaft flange. Remember all these airplanes are different. This should help for a measurement where you only need to make the channels one time. Then just measure the lengths you need. Im away from mine but the top and bottom are different widths, Ill try to get them. ps. Im experimental. doug
This is what I used. 1025 steel .035 uppers are 3/4 inch wide with 1/2 inch lips, lowers 1 inch wide with 1/2 inch lips. uppers about 23 inches long, lowers about a inch shorter. I did some different things so dont go by my lengths. Somehow mount the nose bowl and you can figure out what you need real easy. The trick for me was to get the nose bowl set right where i wanted it 1st. And it worked great. i hope this helps. doug
I just flew the Cub into Osh today so it will be a week or so before I can post the measurements, sorry.
Jim, if I had to do it over again I wouldn't use use the original style fasteners unless for authenticity. They're 1940's technology. I would put cam locks right in the lower channels, maybe 3 or 4 per side. The originals were hard to get it so you could make the cheeks fit tight with the rest of the cowl and sometimes can be difficult to hook. Also I don't know what nose bowl you're using but if you could find an original that needed to be reworked or buy one from Univair would be best. I used a fiberglass Wag-Aero bowl on a Vag and the flange where the cowl screws to does not "flow" right with the rest of the cowl. We used a Univair bowl and cheeks but in the long run it would have been alot easier just to get the new bowl and make the cheeks.
Ryan, on the PA-11 I'm using the original 1947 nosebowl. On the J3 look-alike, I'm modifying a Wag-Aero PA-17 nosebowl (which they call a PA-11 nosebowl, but it isn't) in order to use it as a plug to pull a mold so that I can make a nosebowl that is more suitable to my needs.
JimC
Sorry it took me so long to remember to post this but I have the measurements of the channels. They're 5/8" X 1" X 5/8". They're made of .40" mild steel. I'll post some pictures in my photo gallery. Also the nutplates in the lower channels are 6" apart and use 10/32 screws.