mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
That dont sound good.....Whats that mean????? He lost/gave up pma (or because of name change??) but still was making and selling parts?? Thats gonna make people cranky..
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
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Charlie Longley
MEMBER
Anchorage, AK
I don't think he ever had PMA approval for his gear legs. I think they we're being installed as an owner built part. As an airplane owner you can direct how a part is made for your airplane. Like a CAD cut out instrument panel.
Just what I heard........
And actually a divorce prompted the name change.
Just what I heard........
And actually a divorce prompted the name change.
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
Ah!! I see....
also see why feds have their panties in a wad....
kinda hard to claim it as an owner produced part when you assign them a part number like that.....
looks like he did formally make them under PMA for STC install
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skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Actually Kougarok, I believe that an owner produced part has to be the same as the original. If the part is not exactly the same, it then becomes an unapproved alteration. Changing from whatever spring steel that Cessna has approved to Titanium is NOT, in my view, in accordance with the FAA's "owner produced parts" authorization. I would be very leery of changing the type of steel on my 185 landing gear without using a tested and approved materiel. That could be extremely expensive.
Charlie Longley
MEMBER
Anchorage, AK
I got that part from the 135 guy in Alaska I bought my steel 185 gear from. I think the they're going with the Titanium is as good or better than original. I'll pull the CD on the 185 in question and see what kind of paperwork they filed out of curiousity. I suppose someone could just call Tom and ask him.
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Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
"...as good or better than the original..." is not how the "owner produced part" thing works.
I'm not saying the following has anything to do with landing gear, but.........sometimes a "better" or "stronger" part can cause a failure somewhere else in a structure that the original engineers had planned for....or not.......I'm just saying.
Charlie Longley
MEMBER
Anchorage, AK
I suspect that they did some engineering. I may have mis-spoke. I am not 100% sure how they are approving the Ti gear. I know they aren't PMA'd though.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
There are two approvals required. First is a STC for the Ti gear legs to be installed on whatever airplane. Second is a FAA-PMA to be able to reproduce the parts to the STCd specs and install them on the airplane which is defined in the STC. The PMA is the certification that the part complies with the STC. The manufacturer has to acquire the PMA (Parts Manufacturing Approval). The manufacturer is not necessarily the STC holder. I believe (but not certain) that if a owner gets written (to prove to the FAA) permission from the STC holder to use the STC along with the drawings, then the part could be a "owner produced part".
Charlie Longley
MEMBER
Anchorage, AK
It turns out they've been doing owner produced Ti gear IAW Tom's STC. But I could see where the Feds are getting there panties in a wad over the part numbers on them!
180Marty
MEMBER
Paullina, Ia
Jim Hill sure talked the Ti gear up on his early 180. I think he was in the Seattle are. This pic is over on the 180/185 website.
http://www.skywagons.org/gallery/albums/engine_mods/DSC_3558.sized.jpg
http://www.skywagons.org/gallery/albums/engine_mods/DSC_3558.sized.jpg
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
I really like the obvious benefits of the Titanium gear idea.
Who wouldn't dream to save a bunch of weight, never have corrosion, and have gear that will life-cycle forever?
Conversely, I hear tell of an operator with the Ti gear who when an excited and interested bystander asked how the new gear performed, the response was....."....well, it's kindof like landing gear...":lol:
Who wouldn't dream to save a bunch of weight, never have corrosion, and have gear that will life-cycle forever?
Conversely, I hear tell of an operator with the Ti gear who when an excited and interested bystander asked how the new gear performed, the response was....."....well, it's kindof like landing gear...":lol:
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
Who's running those unapproved parts??
Lance
Registered User
Gonzales, Louisiana
I am reworking the old panel in my 180 and I am replacing the old pull switches and old breakers.
I want to rewire it and install toogle switches like I did the cub. Question is: Can I use toogle switches with integrated breakers or do you have to use seperate toogles and breakers like is normally done?
2nd: Any pointers on the best products to use to replace the firewall insulation? I have an idea of what I am gonna do just would like to hear feed back from others that have done it. What did you use?
3rd: It has Flint tip tanks and the old fuel gauges suck. Question is are the guages resistive or capacitive for the Flints? Educate me
Lance
I want to rewire it and install toogle switches like I did the cub. Question is: Can I use toogle switches with integrated breakers or do you have to use seperate toogles and breakers like is normally done?
2nd: Any pointers on the best products to use to replace the firewall insulation? I have an idea of what I am gonna do just would like to hear feed back from others that have done it. What did you use?
3rd: It has Flint tip tanks and the old fuel gauges suck. Question is are the guages resistive or capacitive for the Flints? Educate me
Lance
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
I am reworking the old panel in my 180 and I am replacing the old pull switches and old breakers.
I want to rewire it and install toogle switches like I did the cub. Question is: Can I use toogle switches with integrated breakers or do you have to use seperate toogles and breakers like is normally done?
2nd: Any pointers on the best products to use to replace the firewall insulation? I have an idea of what I am gonna do just would like to hear feed back from others that have done it. What did you use?
3rd: It has Flint tip tanks and the old fuel gauges suck. Question is are the guages resistive or capacitive for the Flints? Educate me
Lance
yes you can use the all in one switch breakers....
I used the rectangle ones W33S2N1Q on the last project, early 180....
also make your electrics panel removable, or like this one hinged on left edge, so it swings out to work on...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbrocktbrkr.php
I use a insulation plank reeves sells (907)272-8522 then vinyl over that..
just a guess resistive on gauges... but its been MANY years... (Stewart-Warner car parts..)
also If someone wants, I have a left over from last cessna project collecting dust for +10 years, a newer "Y" style tree leftover (no pulleys or such) which lets you do a real tall stack.... oiled and powdercoated.
http://anchorage.craigslist.org/tls/2616550123.html
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Lance
Registered User
Gonzales, Louisiana
Thanks Mike, you are a big help as usual.
I have an "all in one" toggle switch/breaker in the cub that I like, Tyco I believe. Want to use the toggle style since you can just drill a hole for the mounting. Just have not seen any at Spruce.
I have the old T-bar control and dont plan to change it. Trying to keep the cost under some kind of control Moving the radios in the upper panel but its just comm/transponder.
I do plan to have the electric panel just screwed on so it can easily be removed. For that matter, I am trying to make the changes to the existing panel with overlays screwed on so that most items are easily removed if I can make it look OK.
I have an "all in one" toggle switch/breaker in the cub that I like, Tyco I believe. Want to use the toggle style since you can just drill a hole for the mounting. Just have not seen any at Spruce.
I have the old T-bar control and dont plan to change it. Trying to keep the cost under some kind of control
Moving the radios in the upper panel but its just comm/transponder. I do plan to have the electric panel just screwed on so it can easily be removed. For that matter, I am trying to make the changes to the existing panel with overlays screwed on so that most items are easily removed if I can make it look OK.
Attachments
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
3rd: It has Flint tip tanks and the old fuel gauges suck. Question is are the guages resistive or capacitive for the Flints? Educate me
Lance
The Flint tank gauges are as Mike says resistive. I've had Flint tanks in my 185 for 35 years and they have always worked correctly. I suggest that you check your electrical connections. A little corrosion will screw up the readings. I have found that Corrosion Block sprayed on electrical connections will do wonders. Let it sit to do it's job.
Charlie Longley
MEMBER
Anchorage, AK
Not to get technical but they're Suspected Unapproved Parts. I called the Seattle MIDO out of curiousity and they said the investigation is on-going and dragging out. Let's give Tom the benifit of the doubt!
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
Sorry. I didn't mean to sound coarse. I do not know Tom.
In that statement, I was joking with Randy about which Talkeetna operator would DO such a thing.
In that statement, I was joking with Randy about which Talkeetna operator would DO such a thing.
Lance
Registered User
Gonzales, Louisiana
Got my firewall material in. I bought two different products. One is fiberglass sandwiched between real thin aluminum outer shells. The other is a fire retardant fabric weave with a vinyl type outer covering on one side and good lord that stuff is very heavy!! Was going to use alum/fiberglass stuff first and put the other over top as finished product. Second guessing that with how heavy it is.
Are there some better ideas? Mike, how is that "plank" stuff you use made up?
Are there some better ideas? Mike, how is that "plank" stuff you use made up?
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
it's fireproof 1/4" thick foam insulation & sound dampener.... with foil on one side.... kinda heavy too....
Lance
Registered User
Gonzales, Louisiana
My tailwheel was leaning to the side a bit, so I took the stinger out to investigate. All bolts where tight but I found that the "saddle" mount that sit on top of the stinger has a bit of egg shape to the bolt holes. Is there an Alaskan way to repair or do you have to replace it?
1. I could drill it and stinger up size a tad but don't want to compromise the strength.
2. Could drill holes in saddle up a bit and use a small bushing with original size bolt.
or
3. Could weld up the holes and redrill new ones.
Ideas??
Also, good supplier for the rubber bushings?
1. I could drill it and stinger up size a tad but don't want to compromise the strength.
2. Could drill holes in saddle up a bit and use a small bushing with original size bolt.
or
3. Could weld up the holes and redrill new ones.
Ideas??
Also, good supplier for the rubber bushings?
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
also once tire has wore a 'pattern' on it from shimmying, replace it...
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
It's above my pay grade and udnerstanding to suggest welding spring steel.
I can see a repair to the holes in the saddle itself. Bushings alone would not be adequate, in my opinion.
As Mike said, do not heat the tail spring, remove the saddle from it before welding the saddle. fyi, The "stinger" is Cessna's nomenclature for the tailcone fairing. fyi. Lots of folks use the term when talking about the tail spring, so we know what you mean.
I can see a repair to the holes in the saddle itself. Bushings alone would not be adequate, in my opinion.
As Mike said, do not heat the tail spring, remove the saddle from it before welding the saddle. fyi, The "stinger" is Cessna's nomenclature for the tailcone fairing. fyi. Lots of folks use the term when talking about the tail spring, so we know what you mean.
Lance
Registered User
Gonzales, Louisiana
Gotcha Dave, thanks.
Just to clarify, I have no intention of welding on the spring. The holes in it seem to be ok. I am talking about just the saddle itself.
To clarify the welding: I was thinking just weld up the holes in the saddle and redrill in the same (stock) location.
The tailwheel does not shimmy.
Just looking for opinions, thanks
Just to clarify, I have no intention of welding on the spring. The holes in it seem to be ok. I am talking about just the saddle itself.
To clarify the welding: I was thinking just weld up the holes in the saddle and redrill in the same (stock) location.
The tailwheel does not shimmy.
Just looking for opinions, thanks
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
weld bushings in saddle..... not stinger.. maybe I typed wrong??????
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
Mike, I understood you're typing. You're good, no problem.
Sorry, I was not saying that either of you would weld the tail spring.....I said it cuz I though it'd be fuhnny to use the "pay grade" comment. However, I'm sure someone could weld spring steel, but it ain't me.
I am saying that a welded bushing in the saddle might be a fine repair.
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