Salex,
This is from the engine's type certificate E-274
NOTE 1. Maximum permissible temperatures are as follows:
Cylinder head 500°F (well-type thermocouple)
Cylinder barrel 325°F
Oil inlet 245°F
I consider 400°F CHT as my personal limit. Only on very hot days does the CHT ever want to exceed 400. In which case I richen the mixture to bring it down.
Your maximum oil temperature being 200 is still below the limit by 45°F. Any of the engine manufactures never seem to mind the oil temperatures being at or near the top limit. Actually being hot helps in "boiling" off any water condensation in the oil. It's better than being on the cool side. (engine will last longer)
One thing which is important is to ensure all the air entering the nose cowl intakes is forced around the engine cylinders and oil cooler as intended. If there are any gaps between the baffles which allows the air to bypass, that air is lost. Some of it can go around the nose of the engine behind the ring gear. One thing to check is the felt baffles which you just installed new actually do seal what is intended. When the engine moves around they need to maintain 100% contact. Do they? It's difficult to know since everything is closed while your flying. In my opinion those felts never did seal very well. They just seem to be there to keep the metal baffles from wearing on the cowl.
This is an optional baffle seal which I used in my Cub.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cowlseal06-02461.php?clickkey=50593 It forms a smooth curved tight seal between the engine baffles and the cowl all the way around. The incoming air pressure forces them tight against the cowl. You can see it in the pictures in post #13. I used this type of baffle seal in my 185 also, with positive results.
Another thing you can try for oil temperature control is to place a baffle tight against the back of the #4 cylinder as is shown in this picture. This will keep the heat from #4 from warming up the cooling air before it enters the oil cooler. Notice the forward facing lip at the top which directs air into the cylinder fins. The oil cooling air passes over the top of the entire engine without being heated. You could bend up a temporary baffle similar to this one, just wedging it in place for a test prior to making a permanent fix. Bend the sides back to force the baffle tight against the cylinder. Remember you want the cooling air to go between the cylinder fins, not around the outside.
Your oil temperature probe location is correct.