Are there any tricks to installing the 31's. Suggested was to use alot of liquid dish saop and try not to pinch the bladder when we press the two wheel haves together. Anything else??? Had my 26 Goodyears installed by just pulling one wheel half and not having to mess with the inner wheel half or brake calipers. I was hoping that would work on the 31's, but thought I would ask. My mechanic has never seen tires like these so we are both trying to get some info here. I just don't want to miss up the tires or make a mistake. Thanks Mark
installing 31's
- Thread starter teeweed
- Start date
Ruidoso Ron
Registered User
Alto, NM
Biggest trick is compressing the wheel halves enough to get the bolts in, and nuts started on them. May be hard with only half off of the axle.
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
Put a little air in them to keep the inside of the 'bladder' from getting between the wheel halves. Ensure that they DO NOT get pinched.
A piece of 3/4 inch all-thread, a couple of nuts and washers large enough to catch the wheel bearings makes an easy way to compress the wheel halves onto the tires.
That'll do. DAVE
A piece of 3/4 inch all-thread, a couple of nuts and washers large enough to catch the wheel bearings makes an easy way to compress the wheel halves onto the tires.
That'll do. DAVE
Brett Evans
Registered User
Sterling, Alaska
I just put mine on before I left for work. My mechanic hasn't ever installed them either. The brakes are almost touching the tires. I went to Stoddards in Anchorage and picked up longer bolts for the wheels and spacers for the brake rotors. I checked a couple of cubs at Merrill and it looked like they had these spacers.
Brent..could you explain more about the spacers. How many, size, and what they look like? Did you do this because it looked like the tire would rub or catch on the caliper? Sounds like a concern and a real safety factor. I plan on installing the tires in the mourning I hope I can find spacers if I need them. Thanks Mark
Desert Rat
Registered User
I always used spacers with my Streaks but I was told that they were not needed with BW's. I haven't got my 31's yet and I was hoping to get away from the spacers and long bolts.
I machined my own spacers that were about 1/4" thick. Hope I saved them and the long bolts.
If you need them shouldn't they should be part of the STC???
I machined my own spacers that were about 1/4" thick. Hope I saved them and the long bolts.
If you need them shouldn't they should be part of the STC???
Brett Evans
Registered User
Sterling, Alaska
Mark,
I don't know if the installation of these spacers is a common thing or not. But when I went into Stoddards, she knew exactly what I needed. The spacer is round, 1/8" thick, and has 6 holes drilled in it. I also bought 1/8" longer bolts. My mechanic said there should have been something in the paperwork to address this. I haven't read everything in the paperwork yet, maybe there is. When I put them on, I noticed the caliper cleared at the top, but the bottom of the caliper was almost touching the tire. The tire flexes more towards the bottom. If I would have flown, I have no doubt I would have rubbed the tires with the caliper. Again I tried getting all of this done before I headed back to work for 2 weeks. I haven't talked with alaska bushwheels yet either. Hope this helps.
Brett
I don't know if the installation of these spacers is a common thing or not. But when I went into Stoddards, she knew exactly what I needed. The spacer is round, 1/8" thick, and has 6 holes drilled in it. I also bought 1/8" longer bolts. My mechanic said there should have been something in the paperwork to address this. I haven't read everything in the paperwork yet, maybe there is. When I put them on, I noticed the caliper cleared at the top, but the bottom of the caliper was almost touching the tire. The tire flexes more towards the bottom. If I would have flown, I have no doubt I would have rubbed the tires with the caliper. Again I tried getting all of this done before I headed back to work for 2 weeks. I haven't talked with alaska bushwheels yet either. Hope this helps.
Brett
RedEye
Registered User
Side Lake , MN
bw's
If you've got 6" Clevelands there's no need for spacers or longer bolts. As for pinching the tire between the wheel halves, I suppose it could happen, but not likely !! If you are concerned about it, a little baby powder on the inner portion of the tire does the trick !!
If you've got 6" Clevelands there's no need for spacers or longer bolts. As for pinching the tire between the wheel halves, I suppose it could happen, but not likely !! If you are concerned about it, a little baby powder on the inner portion of the tire does the trick !!
Brett Evans
Registered User
Sterling, Alaska
David,
I've got the 6" clevelands and both side are almost touching. Maybe something else isn't right.
I've got the 6" clevelands and both side are almost touching. Maybe something else isn't right.
180Marty
MEMBER
Paullina, Ia
On my 180 Cessna with 29 inch Bushwheels and 6 inch Clevelands I was worried about tire rubbing also. I talked to Willy Z who has the blue and white 185 on the Bushwheel sight and his were close also and he told me about spacers. My brake linings are about half shot so I haven't had a rubbing problems yet but when I reline the brakes I might have to do the spacer thing. Then I'll have to make sure I have enough engagement between the torque plate and the pins on the caliper.
Marty
Marty
Desert Rat
Registered User
My pins had plenty of engagement with 1/4" spacer. I rounded the edge of the caliper also. The stock caliper acts like a knife on the sidewall. Again mine were Streaks not BW's
A little tip: Use a solid spacer. If you use washers be very sure you don't end up with run-out on the disc. A little run-out will create a large problem. You can easily end up with no brakes on one side. The disc will hammer the pucks in on takeoff and... Well no brake on one side makes landing pretty exciting. I did it (no damage) and will never do it again.
I would also like to hear from BW about this. I asked and was told "no spacers are required".
A little tip: Use a solid spacer. If you use washers be very sure you don't end up with run-out on the disc. A little run-out will create a large problem. You can easily end up with no brakes on one side. The disc will hammer the pucks in on takeoff and... Well no brake on one side makes landing pretty exciting. I did it (no damage) and will never do it again.
I would also like to hear from BW about this. I asked and was told "no spacers are required".
kase
SPONSOR
Billings MT
If you do want to use a spacer they are available here for $13.00.
http://www.bushwhackerair.com/cubparts.html
http://www.bushwhackerair.com/cubparts.html
Brett Evans
Registered User
Sterling, Alaska
Kase,
Thnaks for the site. I paid $20 apiece at Stoddards.
Appreciate all the info about this subject.
Thnaks for the site. I paid $20 apiece at Stoddards.
Appreciate all the info about this subject.
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
Start 'em out at 8PSI. Don't go any higher.
When I last purchased a set of Cleveland wheel and brakes, I called the people at Alaskan Bushwheel. They suggested that I use a particular model (I think it was the 199-62 kit, which has the 40-75D wheel; this was for 1.5" axles) and one of the reasons for this is because the brake disc is spaced further from the wheel on this model and gives better clearance for the bushwheels. I don't know for sure but gather that not all Clevelands are the same; some will have adequate clearance without spacers and others will need spacers.
Rod.
Rod.
Brett Evans
Registered User
Sterling, Alaska
Rod,
Thanks for the info. I'll check to see which ones I have. That makes sense.
Brett
Thanks for the info. I'll check to see which ones I have. That makes sense.
Brett
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
For those of you not aware, the pressure question was also answered in another thread.
4-6 is a good range. 8PSI is the minimum published number from AKBwheels. 10 is way too much. They are quite bouncy at 10PSI. I can't see any advantages for 10 PSI. Less wear on pavement? Yeah, but at 10 PSI they're bouncy and won't squish out for a good footprint on the soft stuff.
Go try them out, you'll see. DAVE
PS... different Cleveland wheels have different discs. Some have more dish than others (dish: meaning the amount of offset from the 'base' of the disc to the part the brake pads grab). Some Cleveland wheel and brake 'kits' have different torque plates ( the plate bolted to the gear leg that the brake caliper body hangs from) and the torque plate locates the caliper relative to the brake disc.
4-6 is a good range. 8PSI is the minimum published number from AKBwheels. 10 is way too much. They are quite bouncy at 10PSI. I can't see any advantages for 10 PSI. Less wear on pavement? Yeah, but at 10 PSI they're bouncy and won't squish out for a good footprint on the soft stuff.
Go try them out, you'll see. DAVE
PS... different Cleveland wheels have different discs. Some have more dish than others (dish: meaning the amount of offset from the 'base' of the disc to the part the brake pads grab). Some Cleveland wheel and brake 'kits' have different torque plates ( the plate bolted to the gear leg that the brake caliper body hangs from) and the torque plate locates the caliper relative to the brake disc.
Brett Evans
Registered User
Sterling, Alaska
Thanks Dave,
I put 8 psi in to start with. My mechanic picked my wheels up used from someone he deals with in California. I think the spacers will fix my problem. If not, I will pick up a new set of wheels. Thanks again for the ecucation.
Brett
I put 8 psi in to start with. My mechanic picked my wheels up used from someone he deals with in California. I think the spacers will fix my problem. If not, I will pick up a new set of wheels. Thanks again for the ecucation.
Brett
