Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 26 of 26

Thread: installing 31's

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Hempstead, Texas
    Posts
    506
    Post Thanks / Like

    installing 31's

    Are there any tricks to installing the 31's. Suggested was to use alot of liquid dish saop and try not to pinch the bladder when we press the two wheel haves together. Anything else??? Had my 26 Goodyears installed by just pulling one wheel half and not having to mess with the inner wheel half or brake calipers. I was hoping that would work on the 31's, but thought I would ask. My mechanic has never seen tires like these so we are both trying to get some info here. I just don't want to miss up the tires or make a mistake. Thanks Mark

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Hempstead, Texas
    Posts
    506
    Post Thanks / Like
    Does the valve stem go on the inside or does it matter? Thanks Mark

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Middleville, NY
    Posts
    209
    Post Thanks / Like
    Got mine on the outside until they need to be turned to keep the wear even.

  4. #4
    Ruidoso Ron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Alto, NM
    Posts
    1,779
    Post Thanks / Like
    Biggest trick is compressing the wheel halves enough to get the bolts in, and nuts started on them. May be hard with only half off of the axle.

  5. #5
    Dave Calkins's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    5,504
    Post Thanks / Like
    Put a little air in them to keep the inside of the 'bladder' from getting between the wheel halves. Ensure that they DO NOT get pinched.

    A piece of 3/4 inch all-thread, a couple of nuts and washers large enough to catch the wheel bearings makes an easy way to compress the wheel halves onto the tires.

    That'll do. DAVE

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Hempstead, Texas
    Posts
    506
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks everyone. I am thinking now, we will be taking the wheel off the plane. Good idea on the all thread compression tool.....think I will use that idea also. I guess it does not hurt anything to have the liquid soap smeared inside and then left wet?

  7. #7

    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
    Posts
    102
    Post Thanks / Like
    I just used Talc and Dave Calkin's method. I don't think liquid soap is needed. Wheel off plane seems mandatory.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Sterling, Alaska
    Posts
    41
    Post Thanks / Like
    I just put mine on before I left for work. My mechanic hasn't ever installed them either. The brakes are almost touching the tires. I went to Stoddards in Anchorage and picked up longer bolts for the wheels and spacers for the brake rotors. I checked a couple of cubs at Merrill and it looked like they had these spacers.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Hempstead, Texas
    Posts
    506
    Post Thanks / Like
    Brent..could you explain more about the spacers. How many, size, and what they look like? Did you do this because it looked like the tire would rub or catch on the caliper? Sounds like a concern and a real safety factor. I plan on installing the tires in the mourning I hope I can find spacers if I need them. Thanks Mark

  10. #10
    Desert Rat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    29
    Post Thanks / Like
    I always used spacers with my Streaks but I was told that they were not needed with BW's. I haven't got my 31's yet and I was hoping to get away from the spacers and long bolts.
    I machined my own spacers that were about 1/4" thick. Hope I saved them and the long bolts.
    If you need them shouldn't they should be part of the STC???

  11. #11

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Sterling, Alaska
    Posts
    41
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mark,
    I don't know if the installation of these spacers is a common thing or not. But when I went into Stoddards, she knew exactly what I needed. The spacer is round, 1/8" thick, and has 6 holes drilled in it. I also bought 1/8" longer bolts. My mechanic said there should have been something in the paperwork to address this. I haven't read everything in the paperwork yet, maybe there is. When I put them on, I noticed the caliper cleared at the top, but the bottom of the caliper was almost touching the tire. The tire flexes more towards the bottom. If I would have flown, I have no doubt I would have rubbed the tires with the caliper. Again I tried getting all of this done before I headed back to work for 2 weeks. I haven't talked with alaska bushwheels yet either. Hope this helps.
    Brett

  12. #12
    RedEye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Side Lake , MN
    Posts
    1,571
    Post Thanks / Like

    bw's

    If you've got 6" Clevelands there's no need for spacers or longer bolts. As for pinching the tire between the wheel halves, I suppose it could happen, but not likely !! If you are concerned about it, a little baby powder on the inner portion of the tire does the trick !!

  13. #13

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Sterling, Alaska
    Posts
    41
    Post Thanks / Like
    David,
    I've got the 6" clevelands and both side are almost touching. Maybe something else isn't right.

  14. #14
    180Marty's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Paullina, Ia
    Posts
    2,083
    Post Thanks / Like
    On my 180 Cessna with 29 inch Bushwheels and 6 inch Clevelands I was worried about tire rubbing also. I talked to Willy Z who has the blue and white 185 on the Bushwheel sight and his were close also and he told me about spacers. My brake linings are about half shot so I haven't had a rubbing problems yet but when I reline the brakes I might have to do the spacer thing. Then I'll have to make sure I have enough engagement between the torque plate and the pins on the caliper.
    Marty

  15. #15
    Tony's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    14
    Post Thanks / Like

    spacers

    Brett I put the spacer's on when I installed my 31's. Had seen a couple sets that were for sale that had grooves. I was told that the newer tires are made so this was not as likely to happen. I think a post by bushwheel would be helpful.

  16. #16
    Desert Rat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    29
    Post Thanks / Like
    My pins had plenty of engagement with 1/4" spacer. I rounded the edge of the caliper also. The stock caliper acts like a knife on the sidewall. Again mine were Streaks not BW's

    A little tip: Use a solid spacer. If you use washers be very sure you don't end up with run-out on the disc. A little run-out will create a large problem. You can easily end up with no brakes on one side. The disc will hammer the pucks in on takeoff and... Well no brake on one side makes landing pretty exciting. I did it (no damage) and will never do it again.

    I would also like to hear from BW about this. I asked and was told "no spacers are required".

  17. #17
    kase's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    1,588
    Post Thanks / Like
    If you do want to use a spacer they are available here for $13.00.

    http://www.bushwhackerair.com/cubparts.html

  18. #18

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Sterling, Alaska
    Posts
    41
    Post Thanks / Like
    Kase,
    Thnaks for the site. I paid $20 apiece at Stoddards.
    Appreciate all the info about this subject.

  19. #19

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Hempstead, Texas
    Posts
    506
    Post Thanks / Like
    Everything went ok on the 31's installation. Looks like the calipers have plenty of room. I used extra long bolt to pull the two halves together. Can't wait to try them out. Thanks for all the help. Mark

  20. #20
    Dave Calkins's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    5,504
    Post Thanks / Like
    Start 'em out at 8PSI. Don't go any higher.

  21. #21

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Hempstead, Texas
    Posts
    506
    Post Thanks / Like
    Why 8 and not 10?

  22. #22

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Hempstead, Texas
    Posts
    506
    Post Thanks / Like
    Why 8 and not 10?

  23. #23

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Fairbanks, AK
    Posts
    52
    Post Thanks / Like
    When I last purchased a set of Cleveland wheel and brakes, I called the people at Alaskan Bushwheel. They suggested that I use a particular model (I think it was the 199-62 kit, which has the 40-75D wheel; this was for 1.5" axles) and one of the reasons for this is because the brake disc is spaced further from the wheel on this model and gives better clearance for the bushwheels. I don't know for sure but gather that not all Clevelands are the same; some will have adequate clearance without spacers and others will need spacers.

    Rod.

  24. #24

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Sterling, Alaska
    Posts
    41
    Post Thanks / Like
    Rod,
    Thanks for the info. I'll check to see which ones I have. That makes sense.
    Brett

  25. #25
    Dave Calkins's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    5,504
    Post Thanks / Like
    For those of you not aware, the pressure question was also answered in another thread.

    4-6 is a good range. 8PSI is the minimum published number from AKBwheels. 10 is way too much. They are quite bouncy at 10PSI. I can't see any advantages for 10 PSI. Less wear on pavement? Yeah, but at 10 PSI they're bouncy and won't squish out for a good footprint on the soft stuff.

    Go try them out, you'll see. DAVE

    PS... different Cleveland wheels have different discs. Some have more dish than others (dish: meaning the amount of offset from the 'base' of the disc to the part the brake pads grab). Some Cleveland wheel and brake 'kits' have different torque plates ( the plate bolted to the gear leg that the brake caliper body hangs from) and the torque plate locates the caliper relative to the brake disc.

  26. #26

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Sterling, Alaska
    Posts
    41
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Dave,
    I put 8 psi in to start with. My mechanic picked my wheels up used from someone he deals with in California. I think the spacers will fix my problem. If not, I will pick up a new set of wheels. Thanks again for the ecucation.
    Brett

Similar Threads

  1. installing flaps on a PA-18 95
    By flynfishr in forum Modifications
    Replies: 33
    Last Post: Today, 08:36 AM
  2. Installing a Float Kit on a 180
    By wingnut18 in forum Everything Else (formerly:My Other Plane Is A....)
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 01-23-2007, 07:47 AM
  3. Installing new Struts
    By ulpilot in forum Super Cub Sick Bay
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-11-2006, 06:31 AM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •