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K & N filters

B

bearsnack

I am looking for updated reports on the K & N filters. Has anyone installed any? And how about a performance report? I am interested in the square filters.
 
Just an FYI. I used a digital tach checker a couple of weeks ago to check the accuracy of the mechanical tach in my PA-18. The (fairly new) mechanical tach was dead on all the way up... 1800, 2000, 2200, 2400 rpm.

With the tail tied down, my O-360 turned 2460 rpm, wide open. Leaned it out, it turned 2460 rpm. Took the air filter off, it turned 2460 rpm. With the filter off and leaned out, it turned 2460 rpm. Once the plane gets rolling it will go to 2650-2700. Take care. Crash
 
With the round-type air filter on a 150HP with an 82-41 I saw no gain using the K&N versus the round paper filter.
 
Re: filter

Bill Ingerson said:
If that was a round K&N filter Crash, do you have the Number for it?

No, it was the stock round paper filter that comes with the Penn Yan conversion. It is the same filter as the round 150 hp PA-18 but is 7 inches long instead of 9 inches. Crash
 
Dough Head, that was a neat filter (non-PMA'd) that you showed us at DVT. Done anything else with it?
 
k and n filter

Installed the k and n in my pa-11 with a c-90. Crusie /climb prop combo. Electronic tach showed a 50 rpm gain in static rpm.(no forward speed at all) Old filter was 2300 static new k and n 2350 static. This is at 5000 ft msl 40 degrees f. Every little bit helps. Bill
 
what would the k&n part number be for a 1950 PA20 with an 0-290?

thanks, if you can find it
 
I made two more filters Ron, but I'm still experimenting with the pleat height trying to make it a little more stiff without having to add expanded metal on the inside. Just haven't had much time to mess with it. I might have to break down and make a mold instead of trying to use the ones we already have. I did get them on the flow bench though, and all three filters, the stock paper, the Bracket and the one I made, all flow within 30 cfm of each other, at around 1280 cfm, about 3 times more than any 4 cylinder Lycoming could ever use. The only thing about the one I made, is that it is washable and filters better than the others.
 
I have 10 hrs or so on the K & N square filter. I picked up at least 35 to 40 rpm on initial power up to take off and seem to be getting more on climb out.
Good product.
 
Hi : I actually fly a Champ, but I like this forum also. Can't afford a SuperCub, but info is valuable to any aviator. The K&N caught my attention , as I have used them for other applications. There is a reason you will get more rpm on a K&N. I read an article about a large mining company trying to save money . The equipment used had two inline air filters installed. The first one had to be continually replaced due to getting full of dirt. The secondary filter was still fairly clean. In order to try and save money, the company decided to try the K&N washable filter on the primary. What they discovered was the secondary filter was now getting full of dirt. Engine oil analysis showed much higher metal content than with the original paper filters. Yes you will get more performance, but if you operate in a dirty conditions, it may not be worth it in the long run.
Ron
 
Ron Babos said:
Hi : I actually fly a Champ, but I like this forum also. Can't afford a SuperCub, but info is valuable to any aviator. The K&N caught my attention , as I have used them for other applications. There is a reason you will get more rpm on a K&N. I read an article about a large mining company trying to save money . The equipment used had two inline air filters installed. The first one had to be continually replaced due to getting full of dirt. The secondary filter was still fairly clean. In order to try and save money, the company decided to try the K&N washable filter on the primary. What they discovered was the secondary filter was now getting full of dirt. Engine oil analysis showed much higher metal content than with the original paper filters. Yes you will get more performance, but if you operate in a dirty conditions, it may not be worth it in the long run.
Ron


Ya, we don't have any dirt or glacier silt in the air here in Alaska to worry about. Guess I'll go out and spend 135 bucks for a K&N to protect my new engine. :crazyeyes: Crash
 
Ron, how did the K & N filter increase the metal content in the oil? Did they happen to have an engine coming apart during this time? How long did they run the filters? Parameters of the test are critical.
Increased dirt in the intake will show increase in silicone in oil analysis, correct?
 
Hi Ron, welcome to the site and glad to have you aboard!

I think you'll find that the fellows here are real sticklers for info, so please share with us where this info comes from. A link to an article would be nice.

Not trying to start an argument here but just asking for some more info about how the number one filter for the offroad racing crowd failed in the mining industry.

Enquiring minds want to know :wink:
 
For me the K&N increased RPM's 15-25 during climbout depending on conditions,load etc, compared to paper. I was using the LEES. If you constrict air on one end, it doesn't do as much good to open it on the other end.
I ran a K&N air filter in my truck after the last volcano blow. At the time I had an Oberg oil filter with a bypass light inside. The bypass light indicates when the screen is full and needs changing. The K&N would cause the bypass light to go off in about half the time as the paper filters would. They let more go through, no doubt. However, on the practical side, the cub isn't sealed as well as an automotive system, so more is getting through just because it is a cub. Also, the K&N would get absolutely filthy in my truck. After a whole season in my cub it barely looks dirty. Be practical, know your flying conditions and deal with it, I have both, just in case.
 
Bearsnack: The increased metal was caused in effect of the air not filtered as well as it was with the two paper filters. Normally the secondary filter received very little dirt. With the K&N much more dirt got into the secondary filter, requiring it's replacement also. In this case, more dirt will enter the intake system of the engines, which will wear it more and show up in the oil analysis. No filter will take out all the dirt. If it did the engine would not be able to breathe. Oil was checked at the same intervals before and after the K&N installation. That's all I can tell you about it , as I was doing oil filter research at the time and happened to come across the article. If any-one cares, oil filter research showed that Fram sucks, and Wix or Napa (same thing) were the better ones. Again, oil filters will not remove all the dirt, and it's a compromise between flow and filtering action. Any-thing will out perform the screen system for cleaning oil. Ron
 
Crash:That's what I like about this site, people with a sense of humor. On a previous thread mention of off road racing and mining equipment. Simple, they probably get free filters, or it's monkey see, monkey do, or just whatever it takes to win , as they do breathe better. Mining equipment is exposed to some serious dust, and if I remember correctly, they were spending thousands a month on paper air filters. That's why they tried the K&N. They have their place, just not there, I guess.
 
Ron Babos said:
Crash:That's what I like about this site, people with a sense of humor. On a previous thread mention of off road racing and mining equipment. Simple, they probably get free filters, or it's monkey see, monkey do, or just whatever it takes to win , as they do breathe better. Mining equipment is exposed to some serious dust, and if I remember correctly, they were spending thousands a month on paper air filters. That's why they tried the K&N. They have their place, just not there, I guess.

Now with K&N filters their spending millions $$ on new engines.

As I said earlier, with a digital tach checker my PA-18 didn't turn up any higher with the filter completely off. So why would sticking a K&N on it help much, other then let a bunch of dirt into the engine. I think some of the RPM guys are claiming is just having a clean filter on the airbox after ten years and a 1,000 hours. Think I'll stick with the NAPA filter at 10 bucks each and change them every 100 hours. Take care. Crash

P.S. Put a layer of grease around the filter ends to seal it against the airbox and dome when you install it. Old motocross racer trick.
 
Round filter #'s

Fram CA122PL
AC 136C
WIX 42220
Purolator AFP 28
Fram 2220

What's the K&N #?
 
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