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Thread: Oiling Fuselage Tubes

  1. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Which kit does that? I've never seen intentional perforations into a tube frame. But I don't get out much.
    I don’t want to out them to 10,000 SC’ers. PM sent.
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  2. #42
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    I hate to ask, but that is so egregious, are you sure that is per the kit manufacturer and not just what this builder did? Sometimes builders are pretty inexperienced and will do goofy stuff (like me) but if that is truly the way the kit is built......holy cow....thats bad.

    Bill
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  3. #43

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    It’s an S-LSA, so the factory drilled the holes.

    The consensus seems to be that I shouldn’t expect the tubes to be corrosion-proofed inside, and the floorboards should be secured to tabs or glued on or something that doesn’t involve holes in the tubes. Is that about right?

  4. #44
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Yep

    Bill
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  5. #45
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StuBob View Post
    It’s an S-LSA, so the factory drilled the holes.

    The consensus seems to be that I shouldn’t expect the tubes to be corrosion-proofed inside, and the floorboards should be secured to tabs or glued on or something that doesn’t involve holes in the tubes. Is that about right?

    clarify please, drilled in the LONGERONS? or just cross tubes?? begging for cracks...

  6. #46

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    I don’t know.

  7. #47

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    When I was building my Cub I had a junction we found that hadn't been welded closed yet. So as a precaution I put some crawling oil in. Boy was I sorry. I later I drilled a couple of very small holes in the tube just behind the sliding window for the trim to pin the rest of the trim in. I had long ago quit thinking about my corrosion worries. Long story short.. I later started covering the fuse, the oil very slowly but seeped down the tube and into the C window channel as I started to rotate the fuse. The cleaning dog fight was on. I finally overcame it after several days of repeat cleaning. Should've listen completely to the advice Bill gave me in the first place. I hope posting these mistake will help somebody else not make the same. Merry Christmas Friends!
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  8. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Campbell View Post
    When I was building my Cub I had a junction we found that hadn't been welded closed yet. So as a precaution I put some crawling oil in. Boy was I sorry. I later I drilled a couple of very small holes in the tube just behind the sliding window for the trim to pin the rest of the trim in. I had long ago quit thinking about my corrosion worries. Long story short.. I later started covering the fuse, the oil very slowly but seeped down the tube and into the C window channel as I started to rotate the fuse. The cleaning dog fight was on. I finally overcame it after several days of repeat cleaning. Should've listen completely to the advice Bill gave me in the first place. I hope posting these mistake will help somebody else not make the same. Merry Christmas Friends!
    Would Corrosion-X have been better?
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  9. #49

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    Personally I would not bother oiling tubes for several reasons.

    1) Factory production aircraft don't do it and if they did, they would mention it and probably list a surcharge due to the extra p.i.a factor

    2) as mentioned above. coating/ painting issues.. Not worth the hassle
    3) Again Hassle, added labor and time. besides most of the "stories about the benefits are somewhat anecdotal, Just like the when we heard of Mig welding airframes were verboten as they would crack. There was this story some years back of some airframes of a future Lsa that had been Mig welded and fell apart from massive cracking. There was no evidence, just a story. As we know now, there are many manufactures that use the simple Mig welding process to stick their fuselages together with NO post treatment and they survive just fine.
    4) You'll probably be too old to care, or dead by the time, if any it becomes an issue.

    If your building ,make sure a competent welder does the job, and his welds are consistent in all positions and If your still concerned, slop on some extra fabric glue over the welds as you cover. no reason to make a mountain out of a mole hill.

  10. #50
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Air Tractor drills a hole at every cluster with a bung at the firewall. They pressurize the fuselage with hot linseed oil and then after it cools they drain the excess out. The welders have to go back and fix any pin holes that show up.

    Don't drill holes in tubes. Piper drilled the U channels not the tubes for interior trim and door welting along with the D window trim on right side. The last two Super Cubs I have rebuilt (1979 and 1982) had the holes drilled in the middle of the tube instead of the edge of the U channel. I think Piper was lossing their experienced help.
    Steve Pierce

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  11. #51
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    adding tube seal ??

    About what size hole do you drill in the tubing to add oil to the tubing?
    What do you do to seal that hole?
    Thanks

  12. #52
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    Seal the hole with a closed end pop rivet. Drill the hole to match. 1/8” or so works
    Last edited by cruiser; 03-22-2019 at 02:29 PM.

  13. #53
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    1. I usually avoid oiling tubes.... only had one owner demand it...
    2. If you are going to have it powder coated, you must wait till after baking ... or it will piss out, or deform things(like lift struts turn back into semi round tube if you don't drill a hole and drain them and leave them vented(sealed newer struts)
    3. did I mention i hate oiling tubes

  14. #54

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    Drive screws work well. McMaster Carr carries drive screws in various sizes.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  15. #55
    supercub's Avatar
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    Well, I oiled my longerons. Drilled 1/8 inch hole, put the amount per instructions on the Poly Fiber Tube Seal can. I used pop rivets dipped in JB weld with another layer of JB weld over the head of the rivet to seal. haven't seen a drop of oil anywhere WHEEeeeeewwww !!! Thanks for the input.

  16. #56
    BC12D-4-85's Avatar
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    Why oil if the parts are sealed properly? I did that to my PA-11 but by then whatever decades old corrosion present had already happened. Pressurize the tubing and seal the air leaks would be my next fix.

    Gary
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  17. #57
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    I've scrounged tubing from derelict fuselages which have been left outside in the salt air for years. The only places where I've found any rust was near where there was an opening or break in the tube. All the rest was still like new inside. Even the outside was still good. That old zinc chromate did a good job. Conclusion, if you can keep the tubing sealed, it will remain in good condition.
    N1PA
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  18. #58
    BC12D-4-85's Avatar
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    A question might be: Are fuselages typically open somewhere or sealed? If open where would we look for leaks to seal if that can be done?

    Gary

  19. #59
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Older J3 fuselages have holes drilled in the bottom of the lower longerons just forward of the tail post, later ones don't. Everything else I have seen is sealed up unless someone drilled a hole somewhere for some unknown reason. Super Cubs have 3 screws into the door tube to hold the interior panel under the door. I weld these up on a rebuild and weld attach tabs there. Also on the 79 thru 82 model Super Cubs I have worked on Piper drilled into the tubes around the door frame to install the welting to seal the door where on earlier models this holes were only drilled into the U channel that is stitch welded to the door frame tubes. Haven't seen an issue as of yet but I have welded the holes up and drilled the U channel on the ones I have recovered.
    Steve Pierce

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  20. #60
    BC12D-4-85's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve for your post on fuselage openings. My PA-11 had two drilled as you describe and we sealed them.

    Another question: Where are the typical spots subject to external corrosion and eventual holes? I was told one was at the rear left window area. Of course longerons but maybe there's some common spots to examine.

    Gary

  21. #61
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    Main places I see are the longerons at the D windows and the lower longerons. The dirt gets between the fabric and the longeron and acts like sand paper and a wick for moisture. The U channel forward of the right D window that makes up the flip up window frame that is stitch welded to the tube is the biggest culprit on the Super Cub.
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    Steve Pierce

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  22. #62
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    Tubing and structure under battery is another one along with anywhere rodents have gotten in and nested.
    Lower longeron under the battery box.
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    Upper longeron under the D Dindow behind the fabric headliner where a bird had built a nest.
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    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  23. #63
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    D window corrosion after sand blasting.
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    Lower longerons after blasting.
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    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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