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Wheel Corrosion

Good subject. Almost everyone has the magnesium wheels (40-60), because when you order them, that is what you get. But if you order 40-60A's (or 199-71A for the complete conversion kit instead of the normal 199-71), these are aluminum, and corrode much less. The A's cost, and weigh a little more, but are worth it.

Also, disassemble and clean the wheel assemblies often. Especially with tundra tires which are not changed very often, and run in the water/mud, this gets overlooked. This is a great project to do on a cold winters day when the skis are on. Disassemble, clean and inspect everything, remove any corrosion, and use lots of zinc cromate. Pay a lot of attention to anywhere dissimilar metals come in contact with each other, (bearing races, through bolts, and brake disk. Replace through bolts if the cad plating is wore off. Paint each dissimilar metal surface with zinc cromate and allow to throughly dry before reassembling. Then coat with grease (LPS3, Corrosion X works too) like TJ said.
 
good point MD. Same goes for that poor little scott 3200 tail wheel. most guys just squirt some grease in the top and in the axle till it comes out! I recomend that once a year you take the tail wheel completely apart, clean, dry, paint, and replace worn parts and repack and re-assemble. They take the worst beating of any part of a cub if they are used in the sand, mud, etc.

Tim
 
Cleveland Wheels

I have my Cleveland wheels powder coated to stop corrosion. You need to tell the powder coater to bake the wheels for 20-30 minutes (after bead blasting them) to get all the moisture, oil, etc. out of the poors of the metal before spraying on the powder. If he dosn't, they will come out with a severe case of pock marks from the escaping gas out of the poors (learned the hard way). Bake for 20 minutes after the powder is applied and let cool slowly. They look great after this and will never corrode. Crash
 
crash, is that with Magnesium or aluminum wheels? Have you had the tailwheel and or the brake calipers coated as well? If so how do you protect the machined surfaces?

Tim
 
Powder Coating

I think they were the standard magnesium wheels. I had him also do the brake disk hubs. The disk itself was left clean. There is a special tape to cover things that are not to be coated. I have not tried the calipers yet. The tail wheel hubs should be no big deal like the wheels. It's just all cast products need to be treated special when powder coating. Anything in the poors of the metal will off gas in the melting stage and cause pimples if not cleaned out or dried out in pre heat. Crash
 
If you have the old, obsolete 30-60 calipers, they are magnisium (I just finished soaking/pounding/pressurizing a pair in the shop to break the pistons loose). The later ones they sell now are 30-60A's, (A=aluminum in Cleveland speak). They are much better. I wish they would make the 40-60 magnesium wheels obsolete also, the 40-60A aluminum would work much better on a Cub.
 
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