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SHOW ME YOUR PANEL - Re-wiring my cub

litgourley

Registered User
Gents - looking to re-wire my cub this fall to include:

1) Move the battery to underneath the seat, go to lightweight battery
2) new panel - G5, Garmin Intercom/Radio + X-ponder w/ ADS-B (moving to the lower 48 - need), Garmin engine analyzer, round dials and place for my Garmin 660.
3) LED lights all around, getting rid of the ridiculous tail beacon and installing something smaller on top of the tail

Currently i have the heavyweight battery behind the rear baggage along w/ a whelen power pack, switches and relays in the wing root panel and a pretty jacked up looking panel with lots of extra wires from the previous guy who had tons of random stuff in the cockpit (CB radio, wildlife tracking equipment, etc.). Wondering if any of you guys have done something similar, have any tips, suggestions or changes you'd make the above. Also, post pictures of your panel so I can get a decent idea of what the rest of the bros are rocking! Thanks guys

Cheers,
Ryan
 
I take it you're a Garmin fan, lol. The battery move and LED lights are good calls. But you'll never have real estate to fit all the instruments and avionics in a normal panel. The minimum instrumentation for a certified Cub is tach, oil pressure, oil temperature, airspeed, altimeter, and compass. These all need to be certified primary. If you add anything to that package, it can be 'non certified'.
To get all these instrument functions into a small panel you'll need to get multiple functions in one unit or get smaller individual units. If you want old school flight instruments, look at 2 1/4" gauges made by Winters. If you want the digital stuff, you'll need to look at something like the Garmin G3X or the Dynon Skyview. The G5 is a good unit but it has limited number of functions in one unit. For engine instruments, I'd recommend the CGR-30P over anything else. All engine systems in one package.
For the avionics package, look at the Becker or Trig radios and transponders. Smallest package size with good functions. Use a NAT or PS Engineering intercom to give you a solid intercom system.

If you're looking at new wire, gut the entire old electrical system. Starting from scratch is easier than patching together an existing system. When you move the battery under the seat, put a master relay on the battery tray. Move all switches and breakers to the instrument panel. Make the new master switch a double pole, single throw, switch wired as per any modern aircraft master switch. Weld a dedicated ground stud to the airframe near the battery for the ground strap. Use breaker switches for any system (such as lights) which are routinely turned on/off during operations. Push-pull breakers for everything else. Consider updating the charging system. I like the direct drive alternators that mount on the vacuum pump drive pad, but even the belt driven models are lighter weight and more dependable than the older stuff.

And install new p-leads.

Web
 

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Under seat battery, CGR30P, Garmin 696, Trig and Becker
Forest of tabs for grounds, Panel mounted breakers and switch breakers to fit.
New harness of course, use wire gauge chart. Wire, breakers etc sourced from B&C
 

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My Cub panel has a G3X Touch and a bunch of breakers. Radio and txp are remote. ADS-B and auto pilot are included. I like the display and function.

If I was starting from scratch today I’d probably lean toward dual Garmin GI-275s with an iPad running Garmin Pilot. One 275 as a primary attitude display and one as an engine monitor. Both can communicate with the iPad and Pilot app. Or an Aera of your choice if you’re an Apple hater. That would leave radios to do and with 2-1/4” choices that's simple.
 

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Trig radio and transponder, Garmin 796 in the pic but I have a 760 now, CGR30, and a RCA 2600 digital AI. Pretty basic.

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Run a weight and balance and figure out 90% of your flying before moving the battery. I have moved several light weight batteries back to the stock location, saved weight and balanced a nose heavy Cub. Google "instrument panel site:supercub.org" and you will find some previous threads with lots of panel pictures as well.
 
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A little more than pretty basic but works really good.
2nd the vote to gut and start fresh, much easier.
 

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Whatever you do make it so you have a big access hole in the middle. this way when you need to pull a gauge or switch you can just reach in without having to lay on your back and drop stuff onto your face. Also not how OZONE has GPS sticking above the panel. Mine is even higher, you can push it up to the V bars usually with no problems. It really helps if you are scud running or have a lot of traffic to watch for (you will never see me with your ADS-B). You get some peripheral vision when dealing with the GPS/touchscreen. Use instrument nuts on everything!! Drop out switch panel is nice also.
DENNY
 
Install a uAvionix AV-30C instead of a Garmin G-5. Lots of information, less expensive and installs in a 3 1/8 standard hole. I've found the Garmin 660 to be a good nav unit. I'd second the 2 1/4 inch radios.

I'd also keep junk off the top of the panel. Only thing I like up there is a long, flat slip/skid ball.

MTV
 
Fighting for Millimeters

WIREWEINIE "For the avionics package, look at the Becker or Trig radios and transponders. Smallest package size with good functions. Use a NAT or PS Engineering intercom to give you a solid intercom system."



I'm also re-doing a cub panel and looking at the Trig TY91 comm. radio. The data sheet for this radio indicates it has a built in intercom system. Is it limited in some way to warrant the addition of of a PS Engineering ICS for more "solid" performance?

Thanks
 
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I get some arguments but my point is that you will get better performance from a stand alone intercom than any of the built in intercoms. If you want more than two places you'll need an intercom as most built in systems are limited to two. If you need extra volume or need to adjust volume/vox squelch settings for open/closed windows and doors, use the knobs on the face of the intercom or go into the menu and change settings on the radio. Which is easier? With a separate intercom and radio you can simply turn the knobs to set radio and intercom volumes as needed. Also note that many of the built in systems allow all mics to go 'go hot' any time either PTT switch is activated. With an intercom system only the mic that corresponds with the PTT button activated with turn on. This is a simple way of eliminating some ambient noise during radio transmission.

Web
 
Trig radio and transponder, Garmin 796 in the pic but I have a 760 now, CGR30, and a RCA 2600 digital AI. Pretty basic.

So how do you like the 760 vs. the 796? I love my 796 and need a good reason to change.
 
I get some arguments but my point is that you will get better performance from a stand alone intercom than any of the built in intercoms. If you want more than two places you'll need an intercom as most built in systems are limited to two. If you need extra volume or need to adjust volume/vox squelch settings for open/closed windows and doors, use the knobs on the face of the intercom or go into the menu and change settings on the radio. Which is easier? With a separate intercom and radio you can simply turn the knobs to set radio and intercom volumes as needed. Also note that many of the built in systems allow all mics to go 'go hot' any time either PTT switch is activated. With an intercom system only the mic that corresponds with the PTT button activated with turn on. This is a simple way of eliminating some ambient noise during radio transmission.

Web

It’s a cub. The trig intercom works good enough for a cub. I put a ptt and vox switch and a intercom ptt for the rear when the doors and windows are open.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So how do you like the 760 vs. the 796? I love my 796 and need a good reason to change.

I haven’t had a chance to fly with it yet since my engine ended up needing an overhaul right after I bought the 760. I’ve messed around with it a bit though and I’m not really sure it’s that much different from the 796. It is a little lighter and it can be updated via WiFi but those are the only advantages I’ve seen so far. I’ll give a better update once I get to use it in the air after my engine comes back.
 
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Cheap way to get more.
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Transmitted from my FlightPhone on fingers...
 

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where does one find the wiring chart?

Bear hawk builder used the term wire GAUGE chart. In this case I think he’s referring to the chart in AC43.13. That will line you out on your gauges vs. lengths of runs etc for anything you need to do.
Not poking at you Wirewienie, I know you’re very aware of that. Just saw what seemed a bit of a misunderstanding.
Good stuff here guys, as always. Love the expertise and different ideas/views. Keep em coming.

Regards,
Oz
 
Bear hawk builder used the term wire GAUGE chart. In this case I think he’s referring to the chart in AC43.13. That will line you out on your gauges vs. lengths of runs etc for anything you need to do.
Not poking at you Wirewienie, I know you’re very aware of that. Just saw what seemed a bit of a misunderstanding.
Good stuff here guys, as always. Love the expertise and different ideas/views. Keep em coming.

Regards,
Oz
That is what I figured. Can you post the chart for us or do I need to buy the book? The EAA webinars also refer to the AC43.13 book of lore.
Thanks for the reply!
 
Here's a copy of the continuous flow chart. I added some color to try to make it easier to follow.

Web
 

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Open the link, send it to Kindle or Apple Books. Easy and free. Have it on your phone and/or tablet for future use.
 
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