• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • Hey! Be sure to login or register!

My SQ2 Mods

I think the zip ties will hold. I use them on the tire chains of my bobcat. They take a real beating. Slit any plastic tube and slide it on from bottom use that silicone rescue tape from state fair at top and every 6 inch or so to close tube and lock at bottom and top with tape. That will also do brake line if you want. I use fuel hose as standoff with zip tie.
DENNY
 
I don't like both cables going to one tab on the ski. If you get into rough stuff and the check cable is slapped to its limit it may weaken the tab's attachment to the ski.
 
DENNY said:
I think the zip ties will hold. I use them on the tire chains of my bobcat. They take a real beating. Slit any plastic tube and slide it on from bottom use that silicone rescue tape from state fair at top and every 6 inch or so to close tube and lock at bottom and top with tape. That will also do brake line if you want. I use fuel hose as standoff with zip tie.
DENNY
Click to expand...

We know but it would help to show with a pic the tie and fuel hose standoff?

Gary
 
Randyk said:
I don't like both cables going to one tab on the ski. If you get into rough stuff and the check cable is slapped to its limit it may weaken the tab's attachment to the ski.
Click to expand...

Yes on this...should be two separate tabs and two seperate staged eyes. There is a reason for redundancy there. From AC 43 13.2 A: “It is strongly recommended that tension cords and safety cables be attached to entirely separate fittings at their fuselage ends. Although the attachment fitting detail shown in Figure 5-2 may be adequate for some installations where alternate attachment locations are unavailable, we recommend that each cord and cable be attached to its own fitting (such as the right-hand fitting in Figure 5-3) and attached at separate points on the fuselage when possible. Provide separate means of attaching cables and shock cords at the forward and aft ends of the skis.“

Good advice there.

And, too late now, but I prefer the limit cables attatched to lower engine mount, not top of gear. Looks like your limit cables are short enough in any case, though.

Nice looking Skis! The pedestals look like Atlee’s old setup, which was outstanding.

MTV
 
Last edited:
I used AC 43.13 for data to increase size on cable, thimble, and swedges. Used to (2) separate attachments on airframe and skis. After reading Transport Canada and NTSB analysis on ski plane accidents, summed it up that rigging is often compromised from either human rigging error, abuse, or lack of inspection.
You_Doodle+_2017-11-20T16_37_15Z.jpg
 

Attachments

  • You_Doodle+_2017-11-20T16_37_15Z.jpg
    You_Doodle+_2017-11-20T16_37_15Z.jpg
    65 KB · Views: 192
Thanks a bunch for your comments guys. I like the idea of wing walk paint for non-slip but I'm thinking I can't paint it in the cold so will most likely go with one of the tapes you guys suggested. And as soon as my mechanic gets back we will add another attach point for the front limit cable, and I'll get some tubing over that cable.

I realize I'm in test pilot mode today since (1) I've never flown on skis, and (2) this is a new install. So my plan is to spend some time taxiing around on my runway and doing a bunch of turns (turn left turn left). Then taking off keeping her in ground effect down the runway and landing, doing that a couple of times. If all feels well then I'll head over to a close by big lake and start practicing.

I did contact Don Lee and will be taking lessons from him in late February or early March. He even offered to do it in the SQ-2 knowing there are no controls in the back seat- a brave man indeed. ;-) Looking forward to that.

On the subject of zip ties I've had a hard time locating the ones I really like which have a metal "catch" instead of a plastic one. Seems like all the ones I find in auto parts stores and places like Home Depot are all plastic. A zillion years ago when my uncle worked for the phone company I'd get ones from him, and they were of outstanding quality. Anyone know where really good zip ties can be purchased?
 
BTW love your bird! And this thread!

More of my ski thinking...
I noticed the exhaust gasses may interfere with the starboard return spring. Similar issue on the Scout. C3000A STC calls out using a common Aeroquip hydraulic hose fire shield over the bungee. Exhaust gases are very corrosive and dirty, not good for ringing. I have also seen exhaust extensions, custom fabricated, which bend the exhaust gasses downward away from ringing (used on seaplanes too)
You_Doodle+_2017-11-20T17_04_53Z.jpg

You_Doodle+_2017-11-20T17_20_27Z.jpg
 

Attachments

  • You_Doodle+_2017-11-20T17_04_53Z.jpg
    You_Doodle+_2017-11-20T17_04_53Z.jpg
    143.7 KB · Views: 197
  • You_Doodle+_2017-11-20T17_20_27Z.jpg
    You_Doodle+_2017-11-20T17_20_27Z.jpg
    602.1 KB · Views: 209
One brand of high quality cable ties is Thomas&Betts. Amazon has them, they have the stainless steel locking tabs.
 
Barnstormer said:
On the subject of zip ties I've had a hard time locating the ones I really like which have a metal "catch" instead of a plastic one. Seems like all the ones I find in auto parts stores and places like Home Depot are all plastic. A zillion years ago when my uncle worked for the phone company I'd get ones from him, and they were of outstanding quality. Anyone know where really good zip ties can be purchased?
Click to expand...

I buy mine in black with a metal tab at Brown's Electric Supply in Fairbanks next to me, or Alaska Industrial Hardware. Both have branches on the Kenai.

The standoff mentioned above consists of a short piece of fuel hose with a tie threaded both ways through the center...one wrap goes around the object be held and the other loops around a base spot. The hose goes in between.

Gary
 
Phil,

The zip ties with a metal tab are sold at electrical supply places. Don’t sweat the first flight, you aren’t the first to tackle ski flying on your own. Just take your time, think things through, and don’t be afraid to shut down get out and push the tail around.

Have fun!

MTV
 
mvivion said:
Phil,

The zip ties with a metal tab are sold at electrical supply places. Don’t sweat the first flight, you aren’t the first to tackle ski flying on your own. Just take your time, think things through, and don’t be afraid to shut down get out and push the tail around.

Have fun!

MTV
Click to expand...

Tight maneuvers on surface...skis have a disproportionately long "Arm" of physical leverage...

...cub style axles don't absorb lateral torsion well. I have seen pictures of the welds failing. But, I'm sure it was from totally neglecting common sense. Opinion: I like cub gear, just say'n

My insurance company said go ahead and fly the thing. I said "really, no sign off, no freeking dual"? So I taught myself.
 
Last edited:
Yes, a dollop of common sense is required here. You’re putting a lot of torque on those axles, so I push the tail around in stages, and between each stage, I walk around and give each ski toe a light kick to get it to turn.

MTV
 
So I'm back from my first ski flight, what a hoot! I'll put a video together but I wanted to share two things now. First right out of the hangar I managed to get stuck (see pic)- ha ha ha I know. No amount of power would move me forward (it is a good snow blower though, right down to the grass), reminded me of getting stuck on that island. Anyway not to worry I just bought this really cool light weight avalanche shovel from REI (see pic). Once I looked at how much snow I needed to dig away the avalanche shovel was not quite as cool. Fortunately I had a real snow shovel in the garage. Anyway got her flying and landed a number of local float plane lakes. Guess tomorrow I'll be shopping for a big plastic snow shovel for the plane. What fun I had!

IMG_4064.jpg

IMG_9808.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4064.jpg
    IMG_4064.jpg
    304.3 KB · Views: 273
  • IMG_9808.jpg
    IMG_9808.jpg
    176.9 KB · Views: 277
Phil, copy this photo and tape it in plain view on your wing root interior fairing. Skis are a blast till the fun stops, then they really suck. Blasts of power will blow the tail atound 90% of the time, the other 10% sometimes looks like this



Have fun, be smart if given the choice but being ballsy works most of the time ;-)

Glenn
 
mvivion said:
Yes, a dollop of common sense is required here. You’re putting a lot of torque on those axles, so I push the tail around in stages, and between each stage, I walk around and give each ski toe a light kick to get it to turn.

MTV
Click to expand...
More than once I've witnessed landing gear failure caused by the pilot pushing the tail to turn the aircraft on skis. The inside gear gets torqued until something lets go, usually the bolts attaching the axle to the gear leg. The noise just sends a chill down your back.

RK
 
landed a number of local float plane lakes. Guess tomorrow I'll be shopping for a big plastic snow shovel for the plane. What fun I had! [/QUOTE said:
Is the ice thick enough already?
Click to expand...
 
Randyk said:
Is the ice thick enough already?
Click to expand...

A lot of the lakes around here have 5" of ice or better, some have almost no ice- no idea what causes that- I'm still learning about winter. ;-)

A lot of guys are landing the lakes on bushwheels still, saw that today.
 
Barnstormer said:
A lot of the lakes around here have 5" of ice or better, some have almost no ice- no idea what causes that- I'm still learning about winter. ;-)

A lot of guys are landing the lakes on bushwheels still, saw that today.
Click to expand...

Figure 8s! Try not to stop in fresh snow try to park in your tracks makes getting moving so much easier.
 
Phil asked about lakes freezing...

Time of ice formation is often determined by lake volume and depth plus ambient surface air temps and sky conditions above. Those lakes with more water volume and greater depth form ice later as it takes longer for them to ultimately cool. Water typically cools at the surface until it's around 39F which is the temp point of max density for fresh water. As its cools further the dense 39F surface water settles to the bottom, and the then less dense surface water cools further until near 32F.

The lake eventually stratifies by temps with near 32F less dense water on top over slightly warmer 39F dense water on the bottom. Snow crystals cool the surface and can provide a source for ice formation, normally starting near the shore in shallow water or areas protected from the wind. Cold calm air and clear skies above speed the process. Heat loss is enhanced under no wind and clear skies due to long wave infrared radiation from the water.

Once ice forms that layer expands even further becoming less dense than liquids just above freezing below so the ice layer floats and insulates. A life experience is listening to new ice form..it booms and cracks telling us winter has arrived and all is good and getting better. Snow and clouds can screw up the ice but that's a discussion for later.

Rivers form floating and rotating ice pans usually along shores first then they collect and cover the surface. Ice also forms and collects on river bottoms (frazil ice). Temps are similar top to bottom but mixing can lower them overall towards freezing. If they freeze to the bottom then the water from upstream can flow over the top and form large Aufeis fields that spread over nearby terrain.

Gary
 
Last edited:
Don't buy plastic!! Get a aluminum shovel, the plastic will brake when you need it most. It is nice to be light but really sucks to be stuck and cold!!!
DENNY
 
AK_Logan said:
Figure 8s! Try not to stop in fresh snow try to park in your tracks makes getting moving so much easier.
Click to expand...

Park in your tracks, and stop for a moment, then slide forward a ski length, stop, slide forward again, THEN shut down. Skis warm up from the friction of the snow, which is one of the reasons that they freeze down. By stopping, moving, then again, you’re letting the snow cool the ski bottoms.

Its not much but it helps.

MTV
 
mvivion said:
Park in your tracks, and stop for a moment, then slide forward a ski length, stop, slide forward again, THEN shut down. Skis warm up from the friction of the snow, which is one of the reasons that they freeze down. By stopping, moving, then again, you’re letting the snow cool the ski bottoms.

Its not much but it helps.

MTV
Click to expand...

I have never heard the stop and then move again. It makes perfect sense tho. Usually you've been sliding for 3,4,500 feet or more to get back to your track.
 
c4e9b09f9b5f8b694443c846986ad681.jpg


Like glenn said, it’s fun until it isn’t. Haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
DENNY said:
Don't buy plastic!! Get a aluminum shovel, the plastic will brake when you need it most. It is nice to be light but really sucks to be stuck and cold!!!
DENNY
Click to expand...

Pretty hard to beat a No. 12 or 14 poly grain scoop. https://www.amazon.com/True-Temper-D-Grip-Poly-Scoop/dp/B000DCOPHE?th=1
They're made to move material, not scrape snow down the sidewalk. Surprisingly durable. Ice doesn't build up on it from the snow as you're shoveling. Doesn't have a metal edge that will slice up everything in your baggage.

Jim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Bugs66
RV Baffles - Mod to Reduce CHT
2 3
Replies
89
Views
50K
Jonnyo
Jonnyo
J
New (to me) Supercub... Running hot? Charging issues too
3 4 5
Replies
122
Views
46K
JP11
J
gdafoe
Oil Cooler Problems
Replies
19
Views
8K
Tim
Tim
Eddie Foy
Hot Cylinder
Replies
14
Views
7K
fobjob
fobjob
Bugs66
First flight of my Experimental!
2
Replies
40
Views
12K
WileyHunter
WileyHunter
Back
Top