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Brake Boosters Required for Bushwheels?

Your nails are too clean Steve.😁

LOL, start of the day and my left hand. Back when I was attempting to go to college but spending too much time working on cars my Dad suggested A&P school. He said it would be a cleaner living than working on cars. He was right. Good hand cleaner helps as well.
 
You can just loosen the 1/4” bolts holding the backplates a couple turns, pump the brake, fill the master, tighten the bolts back up, and have the same effect as adding fluid after locking the parking brake- what I do when there’s no parking brakes and I need to preload them a bit... This has worked well on a customer’s J-5 with stock diaphragms and double pucks with 31’s- enough to hold at full power with the o-290d without mashing the pedals too hard...

That's funny, after fighting cubs with no parking brakes for years, I just figured that out a couple months ago.
 
So “hypothetically “ what high pressure system would you recommend for a cub that is in service and that has the under seat battery conversion?
Parking brake valves and high pressure hoses already installed.

Ease of installation, and having “few” operational concerns desired. (Hypothetically speaking of course)
 
Never had any problem with the Steve's A/C brakes (installing or servicing). Easy to service if you have the original style seat & springs. Little harder with the solid seat.
 
I have a Masters Degree and a PHd in Fighter Pilot and get my hands dirty most every day!


LOL, start of the day and my left hand. Back when I was attempting to go to college but spending too much time working on cars my Dad suggested A&P school. He said it would be a cleaner living than working on cars. He was right. Good hand cleaner helps as well.
 
So “hypothetically “ what high pressure system would you recommend for a cub that is in service and that has the under seat battery conversion?
Parking brake valves and high pressure hoses already installed.

Ease of installation, and having “few” operational concerns desired. (Hypothetically speaking of course)

On a flying airplane with good Scott frames I would say Steve's because it is pretty easy to install by just unscrewing the parts, no fabric cutting etc. I use NAS1352-08-8P socket head cap screws to install, way easier that regular screws.
 
After flying with 35s for 4 and a half years, I finally installed Steve’s on my airplane two weeks ago and man is it nice!!! And yes took Steve Pierce’s advice from a previous thread and used the above cap screws, it makes a world of difference.
 
...Filling from the bottom works great for bleeding, but after the brakes are bled I just fill them from the top. It's easier and not as messy.

I top off the brake on my C180 from the bottom up --
for me, it's quicker & easier than crawling under the panel and fumbling around.
 
I top off the brake on my C180 from the bottom up --
for me, it's quicker & easier than crawling under the panel and fumbling around.

What I don't like about filling from the bottom is that you have to be pretty careful not to squirt some air into the system and make things worse.
Don't you still have to get under the panel to take the plugs out of the master cylinders?
 
What I don't like about filling from the bottom is that you have to be pretty careful not to squirt some air into the system and make things worse.
Don't you still have to get under the panel to take the plugs out of the master cylinders?

Cessna masters are vented. If you don't toss a rag over the masters they'll pee straight up in the air like a baby boy when you pump from the bleeders.
 
One of these in place of the vent plug with a tube into a jar eliminates the peeing.
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Cessna masters are vented. If you don't toss a rag over the masters they'll pee straight up in the air like a baby boy when you pump from the bleeders.
 

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These dam Cessna guys posting on a Super Cub site are making my head spin. :wink: Scott brakes use a straight thread, I made the fitting to bleed them. Cessna uses A tapered pipe thread.
 
The vent plug is a straight thread not a pipe thread

My C180 master cylinders have plastic pipe plugs, with itty-bitty vent holes.
They don't really tighten up like a pipe thread should though, more like they bottom out.

What I don't like about filling from the bottom is that you have to be pretty careful not to squirt some air into the system and make things worse. Don't you still have to get under the panel to take the plugs out of the master cylinders?


I have an oil pump can full of 5606 fitted with some clear plastic tubing,
pretty easy to squeeze the bubbles out before attaching to the bleeder on the caliper.
I do remove the vent plugs, but other than usually dropping one into the bilge that isn't too bad--
it's trying to get the bleeder hose down into the master cylinder and pump some fluid in,
all while laying on my belly under the panel and fighting off a charley horse in my cramped-up arms that's the problem.

 
I have stock Scott diaphrams and Bodell wheels/brakes on my PA-12. The combination is "good" with 8.50's, "adequate" with 26" Bushwheels, and a bit marginal with 31's.

Hi Gordon,I see you have the original Scott brakes fitted.Can you offer any advice re changing diaphragms,and longevity of such.Thanks if you can help.
 
Hi Gordon,I see you have the original Scott brakes fitted.Can you offer any advice re changing diaphragms,and longevity of such.Thanks if you can help.
I don't have any advice that might be considered sophisticated, but - - I've owned this plane for more than 45 years, and have changed diaphragms twice. Once because one ruptured on a short gravel bar. That was entertaining! Seems to me that they're good until they're not? Some of the mechanics here will have better, more detailed information for you.
 
I don't have any advice that might be considered sophisticated, but - - I've owned this plane for more than 45 years, and have changed diaphragms twice. Once because one ruptured on a short gravel bar. That was entertaining! Seems to me that they're good until they're not? Some of the mechanics here will have better, more detailed information for you.

27 years of Cub flying and I have never blown one. If you keep them pumped up they hardly stretch at all, it's when you let the fluid get low that the diaphragm has to travel farther and gets weaker each time it has to stretch that far

Glenn
 
Reopening this thread ( and hopefully not a can of worms) but North River Aviation versus Steve's Brake Boosters, which do you recommend and why? I feel like I am really stressing my Scott diaphragm master cylinders with the 29" Airstreaks trying to hold it for a runup and stopping is also not the best :). Cleveland brakes.
 
Steve's and Dakota's are vented so more forgiving. You can add a vent to the North Rivers, too, and Skywagon8A has posted photos of how (he invented North Rivers so he knows better than anyone). I had standard non-vented North Rivers on my old -12 and they worked great. I'm not sure if Scooter still uses them? No matter, there are lots of them in use and that's definitely the easiest solution for adding high pressure to your current brake system.
 
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