Had a buddy with a place that use to be away from everyone. He like long range target practice. Kept having to move his range because people kept buying property around him and moving in. He finally sold out and moved back here on his families place with lots of land and intersecting grass strips.
Not uncommon to be working along and the dogs take off and start barking. It is usually a visitor. But when Dozer starts barking you go look. Wasn't quick enough with the camera but a herd of cows came in my gate, up my taxiway to the main airport. Quite the scene. Darrell Morgan got a picture...
I like the both position because I am brain dead and forget to switch between tanks. I took the screw out. My airplane is a CAR3 and not Part23 and doesn't require only being able to get to OFF in one direction. Safety wire or Locktite would also be a good solution for the screw. I am sure...
tackdog is referring to the rib flange doubler not the flap hanger doubler. I bet there is a lot more force on Greg's at 70 degrees vs the 50-55 degrees that flaps were designed to be operated at. The certified flap hanger reinforcements I have installed are far beefier than those experimental...
I doubt Javron did any independent structural testing of their wing with the P-STOL flaps so I would install the parts that came with the flaps since Airframes Alaska did structural testing.
I haven't been down this rabbit hole in a while but Googling the above might help. I have collected a lot of the flush head studs, grommets and receptacles a long with new and old tools for dimpling and installing them over the years.
DFCI Solutions got bought by Southco. MilSpec Products Inc in Sorrento FL had a lot of that stuff, their version was called Z-Lock. I use it in the pA16 cowls and is the same as the PA12. Dzus numbers were FA6.5. Columbia Airmotive in Troutdale, OR was a source for FA6.5 studs and GF6.5 grommets.
The A suffix is not on your data tag and you do have a narrow deck engine. I would stick to the 8.5 to 1 pistons myself especially on a narrow deck case. I know people who have 10 to 1 with no issues but I also know others who have cooling issues.
I would see if you can run it hard and break it in. If not pull the cylinders and hone and re-ring and try to do a proper break in.
For longevity I prefer new cylinders. Just changed a bad cam and tappets in a 1000 hr engine that had chromed rebuilt cylinders. All the exhaust guides failed the...
Looks like the same as the PM/LS starter. Lots of info here on installing those starters. Requires a little cutting, bending, smashing and drilling as I remember. Might need some welding as well. It has been too long but I believe it is all posted here with photos.