I would call Tony I think he has new and updated seals. I’ve had a loss of maybe 10-15 psi per side that I add some when I go from wheels to skis. I have to add more pressure for skis and winter flying but not had any issues around freezing temps. Like I said call Tony he will make it right.
yea. It’s the bay that only has one reinforcement there. I got a bore scope to stick in there and see exactly what it is and where it’s loose. Flying for work has me pretty busy at the moment.
not sure where the parts came from it’s a experimental cub but lots of stock parts. It’s small like a welding rod and it’s in the same location as the brace that airframes horizontal has
Fixing one thing and found more broken parts. The horizontal has a internal brace wire that is loose. It’s still connected on both ends but definitely rattling around. Trying to post video
Done my research on here and the rear liner tube and it looks fairly straightforward. I have about 3/8” of liner tube showing on the right side rear tube where it connects the stab to fuse. I think some of this side to side movement (plus sloppy bushings in elevator) are what is causing my...
Yup did that and still didn’t think it would come out. Would try again. So castle nut off and then the washers, pulley and then the woodruff key after all this the thick washer comes off so I can add a washer to shim the bottom of the jackscrew?
can you do this solo and if so how do you keep...
I just tried that but couldn’t get the large thick washer off so couldn’t add a shim to the bottom of the screw it was almost fixed in place. Don’t have any pics.
Yup good to know. Will order and change this winter when it’s nasty. It’s time to bear hunt now. Tried to shim the bottom just now but to get the shim washer at the bottom of the threads it was apparent I would need to remove the screw itself to do that so we reassembled it and will keep an eye...
Found some play in my jackscrew assembly. The nut on the bottom is tight. I put a wrench on it and its real snug. The play seems to be in the jackscrew and the first washer below the threads where it contacts the top of the trim pulley. Can I add another washer or how is this fixed? There is a...
Researched and only found one thread and still curious how to fix. Only the right side rear stab has about 1/4-3/8” of play side to side. I can get it to move only when I lift up on the far edge of the stab or push it in towards the center. Brace Wires are snug and aI have safety wire on one...
The pads had a slight glaze to them so I cleaned them with sandpaper and brake clean. Rotors look good cleaned it with scotchbrite and brake clean. The piston on the caliper had some grease gunk on them. Is this an indication of leaking o rings. I’ve never had any fluid leaks but have never...
Thanks Brian. I’ve bled that way and got all air out. What is the best way to start over so to speak and get all fluid out? Open the bleeder on the bottom and had the kid pump the brakes but still couldn’t get all fluid out it seemed.
despite all this pedal moves 1/8” and then gets rock hard...
Yup makes sense. I tried that with my NR and worked well. I had a hard time getting every last air bubble out of the Steve’s brakes so I left them on this year. I’ll let you know how today turns out. Noted for future.
yup I’ll try all that today too. What is the usual culprit of a contaminated pad? I don’t remember getting those dirty but between grease and swapping skis and wheels it very easily could of got some junk in there to foul things up.
I’ve cleaned and checked and lubed the pins when I put the wheels back on. I’ll pull the caliper off and clean the pads and rotors w brake clean and check the pins again.
Pa-18 on 35s with Steve’s brakes.
200’ landings and keeping the tail up with the brakes was not an issue. Left calipers on and went to skis and never cracked a brake line. Went back to wheels and brakes are solid but stopping is inconsistent. I can’t keep the tail up with the brakes. The...