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We monitor 121.5 whenever we’re flying in the twotters out your way so we MIGHT hear ya. when I flipped my -12 recently I was in cell service and close to a road, but had I not been….I had a phone call from the Air Force within 30 seconds of the crash. Had I been injured or out of cell...

If you’re starting with a bare frame, what’s the cost of adding the -18 gear at rebuild? 10k?

https://www.ksl.com/article/50579580/plane-landing-on-bangerter-highway-in-south-jordan Wonder if this was related…cirrus landed on the highway today.

the bushings in the crank flange all sheared and released the prop bolts all intact. The prop may or may not be repairable but the bore took a beating and the other Blade is much more bent and gouged. Only one blade contacted earth as far as I could tell. The damage overall isn’t apparent...

i chucked him out into the snow and he was wagging and asking where we were going in a walk to. I guess he rode it out pretty well on the hat rack. I often times strap him in with a harness, but didn’t this time as I wasn’t planning any shenanigans. Glad he’s ok.

i 100% agree with you. However I wasn’t landing, and my thought process was that it’s easier to get out of a potentially botched drag on a downhill with a little extra energy than on an uphill with no go around. If I’m landing, I’ll take uphill all day.

Let me start with a disclaimer to save some of those lurkers with itchy fingers looking to tell me how dumb I am. I’ll save you the trouble. I’m a very experienced pilot that knows exactly how dumb he is and went ahead and flip flopped on wheels in snow in spite of having read and heard plenty...

Do they make wing covers too?

Liner is ordered and won’t fly until the new one is in. I thought I remembered seeing the turn and drill as a popular fix on here and was confused with all the discouragement in this case. Read through a lot of threads and see that’s not the case. Will get it replaced...

Caution noted.

the front is actually fine. There’s zero lateral play and the liner rotates freely in the tube.

All the input appreciated and I understand the system and the issue more now. We are turning the liner 90 and re-drilling, and going back through the wire process. Sometime soon a new liner will go in. This is just to get me through to annual this winter. Probably 20 hours.

that doesn’t explain why the big difference with the change in wires. The previous wires were even somewhat loose, however the tops and bottoms were tuned to each other. So I don’t suspect that one side was torqued down to pull everything to one side.

So I had my shop replace my streamlined wires with a new set from dakota. New wires rigged per spec and square and where once was a nice tight tail there is now a frightening amount of play. The play seems to center around the junction in the rear vertical stabilizer post, but is most visually...

I'm on board with what others are saying. I had a shimmy, ordered the univair springs and they came out of the box with insufficient arch to appreciably change the castor angle. Put the ABI on with their bracket and I now have great castor and no shimmy for a couple years. Don't hesitate to...

thank you! Do you have any plastic on bottom or is that stock metal?

I'm away from these skis for a while, and have an interested buyer. He's asking for the dimension from bottom of ski to the center of the axle in regards to prop clearance for an 82" prop on stock -18 gear. If anyone knows the dimension, could measure theirs, or have experience with this...

My -12 has safety cables with stock gear. They look quite aged and like they may not do their job if called upon. Anybody know if pre-made are available for my setup, or if we need to manufacture, how to go about it?

OP, have you had it looked at by another shop? I think the question of whether an immediate topping is necessary.

I still think the lycoming SB here is overkill in that it doesn’t allow for the fact that “sagging compressions” can be un-sagged through various means.